BMW S1000R

Main S1000R Boards => Suspension Set-up and Mods => Topic started by: shootersteve77 on February 19, 2015, 02:35:15 PM

Title: Lowering links???
Post by: shootersteve77 on February 19, 2015, 02:35:15 PM
Stumbled upon this today. A lowering kit made by Yani Shiki. Has anyone seen this? I'm curious how difficult it would be to install. I put a lowering kit on my last bike, (K1300S), and it was a five minute job. It might be nice to drop the bike an inch.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: skapan on February 19, 2015, 03:17:55 PM
Easy to install, no more difficult than the K13 except you have to work around that cat, makes it hard to get the bottom bolts out. Personally I wouldn't do it, dropping the rear without doing the same to the front will mess up the geometry. But obviously a lot of people do, or vendors like this one would not be around. Go for it, you can always remove it if you don't like it.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: mac900 on February 19, 2015, 04:39:05 PM
If you go for it you have to make sure it doesn't alter the rear shock / swingarm travel sensor for the DDC. You would have issues if that sensor geometry was altered.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: shootersteve77 on February 19, 2015, 05:22:18 PM
Not in a big rush for this but thought I would ask for opinions. I would drop the front the same amount in any case. Should be easy with the standard forks. Not sure about the DDC being effected. I'd have to learn more about how and where the sensors are. I assumed they were internal. I probably wait until a few others try it who understand more than I do. I'll check on the RR forums as they've been at this for many years now.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: S1rdek on February 22, 2015, 09:34:59 PM
I'm tiptoes with the comfort seat & unless I shrink anymore I wouldn't consider it as it would introduce so many imponderables it may not be worth the grief. Maybe platform boots would be the easier option  :034:
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: mac900 on February 23, 2015, 04:26:59 AM
*Originally Posted by shootersteve77 [+]
Not in a big rush for this but thought I would ask for opinions. I would drop the front the same amount in any case. Should be easy with the standard forks. Not sure about the DDC being effected. I'd have to learn more about how and where the sensors are. I assumed they were internal. I probably wait until a few others try it who understand more than I do. I'll check on the RR forums as they've been at this for many years now.

The rear sensor, which is the only suspension travel sensor on the bike, is bolted to the frame section right underneath the gas tank, just under the front of the seat. The other end is bolted to the top of the swing arm. You can see these mountings in the two pictures below. Altering this travel geometry will affect how the DDC works. If it doesn't change with the lowering you should be good to go.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i738.photobucket.com/albums/xx24/rickmch/BMW%20S1000R/IMG_1152_zps187fb069.jpg) (http://s738.photobucket.com/user/rickmch/media/BMW%20S1000R/IMG_1152_zps187fb069.jpg.html)
------
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i738.photobucket.com/albums/xx24/rickmch/BMW%20S1000R/IMG_1151_zps39f73bf6.jpg) (http://s738.photobucket.com/user/rickmch/media/BMW%20S1000R/IMG_1151_zps39f73bf6.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: BillB on February 23, 2015, 01:45:44 PM
I think calling that rear sensor "bolted" in, is a tad optimistic.  When I first saw it, I was surprised at how fragile it looked.  All the linkage bits and the bracket are plastic, and on mine, the bracket doesn't even sit flush.  It looks like it's just held on by a couple of sheet metal screws.  Perhaps it's all meant to be sacrificial- breaking away if things got too abusive to save the sensor and whatnot?

Anyway, I would agree that any geometry changes take this into account.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: shootersteve77 on February 23, 2015, 03:33:15 PM
Funny I was just looking at that yesterday and amazed. It looked like it came off a plastic toy model airplane. But it does seem like you'd need to deal with that if you lowered the suspension. Maybe you could adjust that arm to match? When you adjust the preload it must effect it so maybe you have a little bit of play where it doesn't matter.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: mac900 on February 23, 2015, 04:29:51 PM
The arm does look like it should be adjustable what with the hex sided ball socket fittings and all. However it is so flimsy looking that I would make sure that I had a spare part ( if available ) in hand before I would try anything with it. This SHOULD NOT be that expensive of a part.   :164: :164:  I imagine that the sensor is nothing but a potentiometer. It doesn't have to do a lot, just change resistance as the rear travels. Yes, preload does affect this but also spring rate too. One of the reasons why the heavier riders report harsher suspension.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: shootersteve77 on February 23, 2015, 06:13:48 PM
Maybe that pieces only function is as a preload sensor for the DDC? I would guess a BMW suspension technician would have to answer that question. Sometimes I think the next BMW I buy will be with normal old fashioned suspension.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: mac900 on February 23, 2015, 10:10:03 PM
*Originally Posted by shootersteve77 [+]
Maybe that pieces only function is as a preload sensor for the DDC? I would guess a BMW suspension technician would have to answer that question. Sometimes I think the next BMW I buy will be with normal old fashioned suspension.

I believe that as the more the  rear suspension compresses the more the DDC stiffens up. The DDC is looking at that sensor all the time. Everyone is working on their electronic dampened suspensions all the time so as much as I tend to agree that normal old fashioned suspension may be better there will come a time that won't be the case. That time, really, is already here, but we just didn't get "top of the line" goodies with our suspension.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: Dod66 on February 24, 2015, 08:03:53 PM
Last year had some light cosmetic damage (scratch) to the swingarm when the exhaust can touched the swingarm.  Without any encouragement BeeEm offered to replace the swingarm rather than repair. No quibbles on my part but I cheekily said Iíd love a clear-coat RR jobbie rather than the black R original.

So after some creative stock ordering my BMW dealer chums managed to take delivery of a new HP4 swingarm. Just had it fitted during the quiet winter period Ė the DDC had to be recalibrated as part of the re-fit.

Iím happy with the result !
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: piece on June 13, 2015, 11:02:48 PM
Hi guys,

Anyone tried that out yet?
I gotta lower my S1000R and i guess i need to find out how to calibrate the DDC.
I know the S1000RR has this function out of the box, but i can't find it in the S1000R.
@Dod66, do you know exactly how your S1000R DDC has been calibrated?
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: fredaroony on June 15, 2015, 06:12:19 AM
Found this posted on another site. Is adjustable for higher and lower than stock

http://www.dmv.com.tw/html/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml?Part=DI-LHK-BM-01&Category=379733 (http://www.dmv.com.tw/html/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml?Part=DI-LHK-BM-01&Category=379733)

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=www.dimotiv.com.tw/html/ezcatfiles/vipcase34/img/img/63515/DI-LHK-BM-01-A-02.jpg)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=www.dimotiv.com.tw/html/ezcatfiles/vipcase34/img/img/63515/DI-LHK-BM-01-A-09.jpg)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=www.dimotiv.com.tw/html/ezcatfiles/vipcase34/img/img/63515/DI-LHK-BM-01-A-03.jpg)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=www.dimotiv.com.tw/html/ezcatfiles/vipcase34/img/img/63515/DI-LHK-BM-01-A-04.jpg)
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: jaylude22 on August 18, 2015, 09:48:45 PM
Over the weekend, I lowered my R using lowering links and an adjustable S1000RR kickstand from http://www.soupysperformance.com (http://www.soupysperformance.com) I also dropped the forks .75" to match the rear (made possible by way of installing these bar risers: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/handlebar-riser-barbacks-top-clamps-for-28mm-bars-pair-1-25-rise-1-pullback (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/handlebar-riser-barbacks-top-clamps-for-28mm-bars-pair-1-25-rise-1-pullback) )  My last two bikes have been S1000RR's and I did the same with each of them, but my R is the first bike I've had with DDC so that presented new questions, many of which were the same as encountered in this thread. 

I'm 5'7" tall with a 30" inseam and weigh 165 lb before suiting up.  Even with boots on, a 32" seat keeps me too close to my max for a comfortable reach to the ground.  A small stone, or leaf under foot might make the difference between staying upright and dropping the bike.  It's not difficult to reason that if the bike was lower, I'd feel taller/flat footed.  To that end, I lowered the bike .75" or about 20mm. 

As mentioned, I had wondered what effect this would have on the bike's suspension and my comfort.  I assumed that it would be much like what other, larger riders have described, a more taut feel that was less pleasant.  My assumption was correct.  Even with the DDC set to soft in the Road mode, the ride was not nearly what soft used to be.  Using Dynamic mode made it firmer yet.  At this point, I would rather have left the bike at stock height in order to preserve the more comfortable ride and just suffered with the tip toe'ing scenario in parking lots. 

I'm going to assume that most people reading this understand the rear height sensor that is made up of a potentiometer connected to the swingarm by way of a small linkage rod.  This rod has a black plastic cup at either end and snaps together with the potentiometer at one end and the swingarm at the other.  By lowering the bike, the swingarm raises the rod, which in turn pivots the potentiometer and tells the bike that it's height has dropped and to make an adjustment to the DDC.  Basically the bike thought I was much heavier based on the height it was measuring. 

To counteract this, I've read of the possibility of having the sensor recalibrated, but this would require a visit to the dealer and $ to pay for it.  I wouldn't mind paying for it, but the closest dealership is a few hours drive one way.  I figured if I could decrease the length of the height sensor's linkage, I could trick the bike into thinking that it was back at stock height.  That's what I set out to do. 

My solution involved pulling the black plastic ball cups off of the linkage rod (they're pressed on), and making the metal rod  that connects them shorter.  The distance between each of the black cups was originally 39mm and I estimated that making it 34mm would do the trick.  Rather than cutting the original rod, I replaced it with a 6-32 threaded shaft and installed matching blind nuts into each of the black plastic ball cups.  The blind nuts had to be pressed into the ball cups, then once my 6-32 threaded shaft was cut to the desired length, I threaded it in to a ball cup at either end.  Total cost for the modified linkage rod was about $3. 

I snapped the rod into place and took it for a test ride last night.  It was like magic... I had the benefit of being flat footed, together with the comfortable ride I loved when I first rode the bike!  This was a very easy and inexpensive solution.  As a final precaution, once I've ridden the bike more and determined that the height and rod length is exactly as desired, I will cut a length of shrink tubing to fit between each of the cups, with a drop of CA at either end.  This will ensure that the ball cups can't loosen from the rod, but allow me to break the shrink tubing loose if need be. 

Here are the lowering links and adjustable kickstand prior to installation
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/4B1ECB1E-DECC-4D5A-A183-8B76E1ACB898_zpsu1jtxfbu.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/4B1ECB1E-DECC-4D5A-A183-8B76E1ACB898_zpsu1jtxfbu.jpg.html)

Kickstand installed
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/999596FD-5FD5-45F0-AEAF-144A2BE3B219_zpswyewit8k.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/999596FD-5FD5-45F0-AEAF-144A2BE3B219_zpswyewit8k.jpg.html)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/2A9777C7-4239-4EDE-8E59-8BF14ED6DACF_zpsahr8myct.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/2A9777C7-4239-4EDE-8E59-8BF14ED6DACF_zpsahr8myct.jpg.html)

Lowering link installed
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/E048A1D6-FAFF-4DF9-88D9-F1F44CACC1C3_zpsplnak9lz.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/E048A1D6-FAFF-4DF9-88D9-F1F44CACC1C3_zpsplnak9lz.jpg.html)

6-32 threaded rod and blind nuts (disregard larger rod to the right/unused)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/CFA8745C-9D76-47A3-8A91-E84E85C2BF6A_zpsczabnzfs.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/CFA8745C-9D76-47A3-8A91-E84E85C2BF6A_zpsczabnzfs.jpg.html)

Original rod positioned next to shorter modified linkage once complete
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/63804568-FCAB-4906-9134-697DBDDBF92F_zpsrknhemmc.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/63804568-FCAB-4906-9134-697DBDDBF92F_zpsrknhemmc.jpg.html)

Modified linkage rod installed
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/062A5B44-0DF1-4248-AAF7-737A8A3FA51A_zpszifsixox.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/062A5B44-0DF1-4248-AAF7-737A8A3FA51A_zpszifsixox.jpg.html)

Bar risers, forks slid up .75"
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/7D58103C-EEF8-42B3-AACE-17A32B1E9C12_zps5nc71y6i.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/7D58103C-EEF8-42B3-AACE-17A32B1E9C12_zps5nc71y6i.jpg.html)

Completed, nothing drastic
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/D8ABE16A-9314-430F-954B-2DD64BE3E0E0_zps9bgpar3q.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/D8ABE16A-9314-430F-954B-2DD64BE3E0E0_zps9bgpar3q.jpg.html)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/jaylude222/113B4DD1-DE09-4B74-A8B6-E242C75FC6EB_zpsndalpgyn.jpg) (http://s46.photobucket.com/user/jaylude222/media/113B4DD1-DE09-4B74-A8B6-E242C75FC6EB_zpsndalpgyn.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: terpion on August 19, 2015, 10:04:19 AM
 :460:
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: BillB on August 19, 2015, 01:17:34 PM
 :0461: nice job!
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: ST3ALTH on February 17, 2019, 12:25:42 AM
How exactly do you lower the front forks? And Iím assuming purchasing bar risers are necessary if youíre going to drop the front that much?
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: SimonS1KR on February 17, 2019, 11:08:27 AM
*Originally Posted by ST3ALTH [+]
How exactly do you lower the front forks? And Iím assuming purchasing bar risers are necessary if youíre going to drop the front that much?

Support the weight of the bike, loosen the pinch bolts that hold the fork legs in the yokes (triple clamps), slide both fork legs upwards by the same amount so that more of the legs are visible above the top yoke, tighten up the pinch bolts that hold the fork legs in the yokes. Donít go too far or you risk the front wheel / mudguard hitting the radiator when the forks compress over bumps. Makes no difference to the distance between you and the handlebars, so risers arenít necessary.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: ST3ALTH on February 17, 2019, 04:08:16 PM
Thanks
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: DRoss on February 17, 2019, 07:44:31 PM
In fact lowering the front effectively raises the bars the same amount as the lowering.
I have a 27" inseam and left the bike stock, I eventually got used to it. On my VFR I'll slip one cheek over so I can flat foot one side but the S1000R being 75lbs lighter I hardly ever do this.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: ST3ALTH on February 17, 2019, 08:01:17 PM
I typically one foot it as well, but Iíd feel more comfortable if the bike were lower.  I just dropped the front forks by half an inch.  Going to drop the back the same once I get the lowering link.  Seems like that will work well for me.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: SimonS1KR on February 17, 2019, 08:09:55 PM
*Originally Posted by DRoss [+]
In fact lowering the front effectively raises the bars the same amount as the lowering.


Iím not quite following you there. The bars are attached to the top yoke (triple clamp) which remains in the same position relative to the rest of the bike regardless of what you do with the forks. So there is no change in the handlebar reach / position as a result of raising or lowering the forks?
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: ST3ALTH on February 17, 2019, 08:27:31 PM
Iím aware that the handlebars remain the same relative to the forks.  Since I was intending to drop the forks an entire inch, I thought I might need bar risers so the top of the yokes didnít bump the bottom of the my handlebars.  Since Iím only dropping it half an inch, I had enough clearance without the risers.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: DRoss on February 17, 2019, 10:12:06 PM
Ahh yes, you can only lower the front a little less than 1/2 inch before running out of room so risers could be helpfull.

If you lower the front that lowers the seat also the handlebars stay where they are but your bike and thus your butt is lower. This changes your position in relation to the bars. 1/2 inch drop with 1 inch riser = 1 1/2 effective bar rise.

On my FZ1 i could lower the front by 3/4 of an inch with no mods. 
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: SimonS1KR on February 17, 2019, 10:30:30 PM
Errrr... nope. For the handlebar to see an effective rise, it would have to be attached to the fork legs. It isnít, the bar is attached to the top yoke (triple clamp) and so it will drop along with the rest of the bike.
Title: Re: Lowering links???
Post by: SimonUK on February 18, 2019, 02:20:23 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonS1KR [+]
Errrr... nope. For the handlebar to see an effective rise, it would have to be attached to the fork legs. It isnít, the bar is attached to the top yoke (triple clamp) and so it will drop along with the rest of the bike.

 :460: