BMW S1000R

Main S1000R Boards => Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring Issues => Topic started by: miles on January 10, 2015, 04:12:12 AM

Title: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 10, 2015, 04:12:12 AM
Those of us in North America know the joy of hitting the high beam and enjoying glorious light bathing the entire road... for two seconds.  Then the low beam kicks off and the weak high beam struggles to illuminate anything at all by its lonesome.

This really bothers me.  The bike's greatest flaw, without a doubt.  I tend to ride into the evening and night quite frequently, generally in really remote, twisty back roads with woods, deer, and other obstacles around every corner.

I want light.  A lot of it.  I can't imagine the circumstance when I'd really prefer to have less than all of the possible light the bike can throw.

I've added driving lights- some LEDs angled slightly up and out* so they shine into turns as I lean, but they leave a gap in the middle which is woefully undefiled by the stock headlights.
I swapped out the halogens for LEDs to give more light, and in the low beam reflector that worked great.  Way better than stock with a really nice pattern with good cut-off and few artefacts.
However, in the projector high beam the LED might as well have been a candle.  It simply did not work with the lens and housing.  This has everything to do with the light emitter's location and the housing's focal point.  It simply isn't going to work.

My next step is a 50W HID (which in non-technical terms is as bright as jet aircraft landing lights) for the high beam.  Careful measurement seems to indicate a very similar light source point to the OEM halogen, so the housing should work fine.  I'm planning on spending Sunday installing it, so I'll know before too long.  Juggling the ballast, ignitor and CanBus corrector in the space available is going to be a joy...

If the HID doesn't work with the stock projector housing, the next step is to swap the housing for another one that does.  I've been some digging and have found an HID-specific housing with the same external dimensions and mounting points, which would hopefully swap right in with minimal fuss.  Of course, this is a step I'd rather not take if I don't have to...

Meanwhile, I have a cure for the idiotic 'high beam on means low beam off' behavior.  I already have a power distribution block (A PDM-60) to run my various electric stuff, so I'll simply wire the low beam to that.  The PDM has a 30 second delay after the key is turned, so it won't draw when starting the bike.  It also shuts off 30 seconds after the key is turned off, so it'll mimic closely the typical headlight behavior.
What it won't do is shut off when I don't want it to.  It'll stay on when the bike is running, regardless of what the high beam is doing. 
This will allow both beams to remain on as necessary, along with my driving lights.  I'll be able to see where I'm going and not have to ride by Braille.  The driving light will still slave to the high beam, as high beam switch behavior will be unchanged.

Of course, I'll get a LAMPF! error.  However, in the track setup menu on the dash there is an option to turn lamp faults off for track use, so I'll just hit that option and away I go.  I'll tuck the low beam wiring someplace safe and out of the way.  No cutting, no fussing with resistors, nothing.  Putting it back to stock will be easy, if I ever need to do that.

At least, this is the plan.  As I mentioned, Sunday is the day I give it a shot.  I've got all the various bits and pieces to do the job and a full day free of any other obligations...  Which of course means I'll have a ton of things to do.

I will take pics and post results here, so others can learn from my mistakes (or possibly my successes).




*Before you object that that arrangement can't please too many oncoming motorists, yes, I know.  However, they are slaved to my high beam with an output of 20% at low, only blazing the 3000 lumens each on high.  I'm pretty handy with the dimmer, so rarely do I ever blast anybody.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SinR1 on January 10, 2015, 04:59:00 PM
Not to get you too much off topic. But what LED kit did you use for your low beam?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 10, 2015, 08:53:53 PM
These:  https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/led_lights/led_headlights_h7_single_beam (https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/led_lights/led_headlights_h7_single_beam)

They were good about splitting up pairs. I'd recommend them.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 10, 2015, 08:55:16 PM
I should mention that the large cooling fan and fins in the base preclude using the stock rear assembly plastic cap.

Here is the cap that won't fit any more:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/lightcap.jpg)

And here is why:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/Backoflight.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 14, 2015, 11:13:10 PM
OK.  Here are crummy garage shots of the various headlights.

First, low beam LED:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/LEDlow.jpg)
The driving lights are at 20% output on low beam.

Next, High Beam LED:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/LEDhigh.jpg)
The driving lights are at 100% output on high.

Now, HID high beam with rags draped across the new driving lights because they are too damned bright for photos:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/HIDHigh.jpg)

I haven't had the chance to ride at night with the new HID.  I just finished the install today.  That said, it is far, far brighter in the garage than the LED even at supposedly similar lumens.  The LED simply didn't work in the housing.


Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 14, 2015, 11:26:37 PM
I said I would take pictures during the HID install, but like an idiot I completely forgot.  In any case, I managed to stash the ballast, CanBus corrector and ignitor behind the left side fairing. 

Here is the full HID assembly:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/HIDMess.jpg)

The screwdriver isn't actually part of the HID lighting package- it's just there for scale.

The bulb is in its shipping protector on the lower left.  Above it and to the left is the ignitor.  Directly above the bulb is the connector that plugs into the bike's lighting circuit.  Top right is the CanBus corrector, and the blue ballast is next to the screwdriver.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: mac900 on January 14, 2015, 11:35:46 PM
Good stuff!     :028:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Marlowe on January 14, 2015, 11:55:35 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Those of us in North America know the joy of hitting the high beam and enjoying glorious light bathing the entire road... for two seconds. 

I got a good laugh out of this first sentence. It annoys me literally every time I flick my brights!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on January 15, 2015, 12:09:08 AM
Holy moly.  I think you need a few more lights on there.

I can't stop thinking that you've going to give everyone in front of you sunburn when you pull up behind them like poor old Roy in Close Encounters...

 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 15, 2015, 12:13:33 AM
*Originally Posted by BillB [+]
Holy moly.  I think you need a few more lights on there.

I can't stop thinking that you've going to give everyone in front of you sunburn when you pull up behind them like poor old Roy in Close Encounters...


That's the idea.    :152:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SinR1 on January 15, 2015, 02:39:47 AM
Holy lights! lol


So do you have any kind of dust/water cover on the LED/low beam side now? And if not, aren't you concerned about dirt and water getting in there?

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 15, 2015, 02:50:04 AM
No and not really.  The high beam side never had any sort of cover to begin with, and the right side isn't any more exposed to the elements, so I don't imagine it will be a problem.

That said, I do tend to ride in some really crummy conditions on roads that are less than paved, so it might become a problem at some point in the future.  If it does (and I honestly don't think it ever will) I'll figure out some way to deal with it. 

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: badger62 on January 18, 2015, 05:53:39 PM
Nice post.  It is by far my biggest gripe about the bike also.  Can't believe they even set it up that way. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on January 21, 2015, 06:08:10 AM
Miles, what is the HID like at night?  Which brand and model did you get?

Is that a Husqvarna supermoto in the background?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 21, 2015, 06:43:24 AM
I haven't had the chance to ride at night since I installed the HID, so I can't really say yet. It seems to be throwing plenty of light, but I can't judge until I get out on a dark back road.

I got a 50 watt Morimoto Elite. I got it from http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/).

And yes, that is a Husky 450 SMR. A total blast in a self-abusive sort of way.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: mac900 on January 21, 2015, 10:25:09 PM
Let us know if any of the surrounding plastics are melting after a while, please?  How are the wiring connectors holding up too?  I've seen other bikes stock & modified that melted the bulb holders & wires.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 21, 2015, 11:25:56 PM
I have a big ride coming up in a couple of weekends and plenty of it will be after dark out in the desert, so I'll really get the chance to evaluate things after that.

Heat in the high beam projector assembly is a potential concern and one I'm going to keep an eye on.  I'll report how it goes.

This weekend I'm hoping to have the time to do the last piece of the puzzle- remove the low beam from the bike's main wiring system.  I'll report on how that goes as well.


Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: mac900 on January 22, 2015, 06:43:21 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
I have a big ride coming up in a couple of weekends and plenty of it will be after dark out in the desert, so I'll really get the chance to evaluate things after that.

Heat in the high beam projector assembly is a potential concern and one I'm going to keep an eye on.  I'll report how it goes.

This weekend I'm hoping to have the time to do the last piece of the puzzle- remove the low beam from the bike's main wiring system.  I'll report on how that goes as well.

I like it!  Keep it up!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JBrownS1KR on January 26, 2015, 01:20:27 AM
I have really wrestled with running a lo-beam HID off the PDM60 (on full time), or just connect it to the OEM lo-beam connector? This won't accomplish the goal of both hi and lo beams on simultaneously, I realize that. My goal is more frontal visibility during day light hours. I'm also adding Denali DM Micro beams to the top front fender mount. I do very little night time riding.
My thinking of connecting the HID to the OEM lo-beam circuit is IF I needed to turn the HID off, I can just switch to hi-beam. And I'm very concerned about the heat generated by the HID in the lo-beam assembly? I thought about drilling 1/4" holes in the perimeter of the housing cap to allow a little cooling. But not sure that would be enough?
The other, less lumens option, would be to install an aftermarket Phillips Extreme Vision lamp (advertised as 100% brighter, I think we all know that's BS) in the lo-beam socket and run it off the PDM60 which will allow for both hi and lo beams on simultaneously.
Any thoughts? :187:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 26, 2015, 03:19:18 AM
First off I would like to say that I have fitted HIDs to many of my bikes (both low and high beams) these include R1200GS, F650GS, K1200S, F800ST, F700GS, K1300S(in the UK and USA). The improvement in lighting has been nothing short of astounding. I have not had issues with any of these melting housings or causing any CanBus errors.

I may be looking at this in a far too simplistic way, but 50 watts is 50 watts, this is dissipated in 2 major ways (as far as light bulbs go) light and heat. so if a bulb is deemed brighter surely it can't also run hotter?? when running at the same wattage. I guess there could be some inefficiency in there but how much would that account for??
 :440: let me know if I am missing something here??
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JBrownS1KR on January 26, 2015, 05:32:09 AM
Simon,
Good point, the wattage is the heat and light (essentially) BTUs. So I think the idea the HID is so much brighter just "seems" like there would be more heat involved.
Your experience with the other bikes is good news.
Did you power your HIDs from the CanBus or from a digital fuse accessory (required in US to power both lo and hi beams simultaneously)?
Thanks for your input.
Cheers
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 26, 2015, 12:42:29 PM
They were(are) all powered through the canbus power supply that stock bulbs plug directly into.

Thinking about it all again, on the K bikes and the R12GS as well as the low beams on the F bikes i Used 50w HIDs, for the high beams on the F bikes i used 35w HIDs (these had smaller housings). the 35w still put out way more light than the 55w halogen stock bulbs.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JBrownS1KR on January 27, 2015, 07:36:45 PM
Thanks Simon!
Off to the garage I go for some installation fun.
Cheers.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 27, 2015, 07:46:10 PM
I also have a new HID to fit on my S1kR low beam, let me know where you find to mount and hide the ballast and igniter.
And I am waiting for one to arrive for the high beam side.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JBrownS1KR on January 27, 2015, 07:53:55 PM
First, I'm going to power the HID from a digital fuse, so the lo-beam will be on full time. I'll run this feed from the dig fuse to the lamp housing, connect directly to the HID power in.
I'm going to mount the power supply (ballast) under the clock support bracket; plastic item under the clocks. I'll use ty-raps to secure. The remaining bits, igniter, and wiring I'll ty-rap out of the way in the space under the P/S.
When I get a chance I'll post some pictures of my installation.
Cheers.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 27, 2015, 09:10:02 PM
I went the opposite route. I installed a high power LED for the low beam and the HID for the high beam (for reasons posted above the LED high didn't work).

My primary reason for the LED rather than HID is lower power consumption. 22 watts vs 50.

Running the low beam off the PDM-60 is the answer.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: mac900 on January 27, 2015, 10:26:59 PM
Please excuse my ignorance. What is this PDM-60 power source of which you speak?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 27, 2015, 10:56:14 PM
Rowe PDM-60 is a fuse block, but it is controlled electronically. It can also be programmed for start up and shutoff delays. There are 6 channels, so you can control 6 items separately. The '60' refers to a 60 amp total for the unit.

http://pdm60.com/what-it-is-and-does/whats-the-pdm60/ (http://pdm60.com/what-it-is-and-does/whats-the-pdm60/)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: mac900 on January 29, 2015, 10:02:56 PM
Great stuff!!  Thanks!!   :152:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 30, 2015, 12:04:12 AM
A thought occurred to me today that going the PDM-60 route may in fact be unnecessary.  I installed the PDM on my bike to run the many auxiliary bits I wanted- outlet for heated jacket, driving lights, USB plug, iPhone charger... Since I had it anyway wiring the low beam to it was easy.

If all I wanted to do was cure the low-beam shut-off problem it seems to me that running the low beam off the auxiliary CanBus outlet might do the trick.  I don't know how much juice the outlet will allow, but I'd bet that a single headlight is within its working parameters.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 30, 2015, 01:14:27 AM
Miles - I think you are correct, although the amp draw may be on the edge!!

the other option just a normal 12v relay connected directly to the battery and a switched power source!
I have a PDM60 on my K, great bit of kit especially when you want to power lots on ancilliary items.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JBrownS1KR on January 31, 2015, 06:24:48 AM
Mission accomplished. HID installed in lo-beam enclosure and and powered from the PDM60: Full time lo-beams. Denali single beams on the fork legs. Now I have to do something about the wimpy hi-beam. :745:
Wiring was a bit more of a chore than I expected, just not a lot of extra room to store items and extra cable. I replaced the OEM battery with an after market Lit-Ion which saved 33% of the battery compartment space providing room for the PDM and associated wiring.
More pics of the HID installation in my gallery.
This is what I hope to see on the faces of the cagers that want to turn in front of me :005:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kenko on January 31, 2015, 10:39:04 AM
Looks good and brighter. :152:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 07, 2015, 02:44:10 AM
OK- I've been remiss in updating.

Yes, running the low beam off a PDM-60 works just fine, and has the desired effect of staying on when the high beam is switched on.

I decided to test my thought about running off the CanBus auxiliary on the right side.

Here is the port:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/connector.jpg)

Now, I'm running a 22 watt LED for low beam, which work out to 1.8 amps.  If I'd still had the OEM halogen in there it would have been 4.6 amps, which is less than the 5 amps that what little literature I could find said that circuit can bear.

I made a little chunk of wiring and hooked it up, and voila:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/AllOn.jpg)

Lots of lights.

And me, a happy camper.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JBrownS1KR on February 07, 2015, 03:55:34 PM
Well done Miles, That looks like it does the trick.
What bulb/set up do you have in the hi-beam? I need to loose my wimpy off-white hi-beam.
Cheers
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 07, 2015, 04:41:47 PM
 I tried an LED to match my low beam but that didn't work at all. The projector housing and the LED emitter just didn't get along, so I went to an HID instead.

My main reasons for initially going LED instead of HID was to keep the overall power draw low. It works great in the low beam reflector housing so that's staying LED.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on February 07, 2015, 04:52:59 PM
Miles -- thanks for trailblazing.  Any report on road illumination and brightness of the LED low beam vs. stock, and the HID high beam vs. stock?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 07, 2015, 05:21:23 PM
The LED low beam is noticeably brighter than stock.  I had been planning on doing some desert riding this weekend and trying out my new high beam, but unfortunately my plans got derailed so I haven't had a good on-the-road analysis of the high beam yet.

Really, I should have evaluated the high beam by itself before curing the low beam shutoff issue, though...

That said, the high beam looks significantly brighter than stock in my garage, for what that's worth.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 07, 2015, 05:23:45 PM
Oh, and Circus, if you want to roll down here to Clairmont we can install into your bike the hotrod halogen I have just lying around.  The high beam is quick and easy to replace.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: FasteddiesS1KR on March 25, 2015, 11:46:17 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
OK- I've been remiss in updating.

Yes, running the low beam off a PDM-60 works just fine, and has the desired effect of staying on when the high beam is switched on.

I decided to test my thought about running off the CanBus auxiliary on the right side.

Here is the port:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/connector.jpg)

Now, I'm running a 22 watt LED for low beam, which work out to 1.8 amps.  If I'd still had the OEM halogen in there it would have been 4.6 amps, which is less than the 5 amps that what little literature I could find said that circuit can bear.

I made a little chunk of wiring and hooked it up, and voila:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/AllOn.jpg)

Lots of lights.

And me, a happy camper.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: FasteddiesS1KR on March 25, 2015, 11:48:10 AM
can you diagram the wiring mod to run the low beam off canbus connector.  I" :046:ll pay! https://www.s1000r.co.uk/Smileys/light/046.gif (https://www.s1000r.co.uk/Smileys/light/046.gif)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 25, 2015, 01:04:11 PM
Here are the step by step instructions:

It's actually really straightforward. The problem isn't the high beam- it's that the low beam shuts off. The solution is to wire it so the low beam stays on full time when the bike is running.

The way to do this is to get the auxiliary outlet connector from your dealer, and an H11 headlight socket from Pep Boys (or Kragen or wherever else).

Remove the right side fairing, tank cover and right side headlight shroud (the painted piece with the turn signal sticking out. You don't have to remove the signal itself, but when you pull the shroud side panel you'll need to unplug the signal wire).

The auxiliary plug is right there in plain sight under the side fairing.  Make sure the connector the dealer gave you works.  It might not. If it does, plug it in and leave it there.

Turn the bars to the left so you can access the back side of the right headlight. There's a round plastic cover hiding the bulb. Remove this and pull the bulb. This wil be an incredible pain in the neck. When you get it out, unplug the bulb from the wiring harness and plug the bulb into the socket you bought. If it fits well, go ahead and reinstall the bulb and cover piece, leaving the wire ends from the new socket out where you can reach them.

Now connect the two, the auxiliary connector and the new bulb socket.  Route the wiring up under the tank cover and out following along with the other things that go out the front part of the cover.  Use tiny zip ties to keep everything organized and neat.

Check your work. Turn on the bike and make sure the low beam actually works. If it does, button everything up and pat yourself on the back.
If it doesn't, you have done something wrong somewhere- probably a bad connection. Check everything and test again until it does work.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Swampwhore on March 26, 2015, 03:39:15 PM
Are the headlight bulbs H11?  The owner's manual calls out for H7.  Have not had a chance to check them myself.  I was going to try replacing with better bulbs first.  I use the high beam infrequently, but it does suck.  I am satisfied with low, but I have found upgrading the bulbs beneficial on my other bikes and cages.  I did try an HID conversion on one of my other bikes, and was not happy with it.  It was bright, but using the stock housing/reflector made it ineffective and blinding to oncoming vehicles.  Ended up removing it.  I do have a some connectors for the aux plugs, so making the low beam full time may be where I end up.  Hopefully the charging system will be up to the task if I run both lights together for a prolonged period, which I don't often find a need to do.  But, I am likely going to try upgrading the bulbs first, unless someone tells me it's a complete waste to do so. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on March 26, 2015, 03:51:48 PM
The low beam is a H7 and the high beam is a 9005/HB3.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Swampwhore on March 26, 2015, 04:38:26 PM
Thanks.  Of course, they only sell the high end bulbs in 2-packs, and my other bikes use different bulbs!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 27, 2015, 12:39:48 AM
Yeah, H7.  Sorry.  The headlights keep burning out in my car, so I've been thinking a lot about H11 bulbs recently...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: FasteddiesS1KR on March 27, 2015, 12:53:05 PM
 With low beam running off Canbus, does the low beam come on when ignition switch is turned on, or is there any delay like ( after engine starts?). I'm sur it will come on with switch, but just want to verify
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on March 27, 2015, 12:57:17 PM
It should come on as soon as the key is turned and will stay on until the ignition is turned off (there may even be a delay before the light turns off)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 27, 2015, 01:16:37 PM
*Originally Posted by FasteddiesS1KR [+]
With low beam running off Canbus, does the low beam come on when ignition switch is turned on, or is there any delay like ( after engine starts?). I'm sur it will come on with switch, but just want to verify


There is a delay, but it's short. A few seconds, but nothing to do with whether the engine is running or not.  It also stays on for a bit after the key is shut off.

Then again, my memory may be faulty, as I only tried that setup to see if it would work.  My low beam isn't run off the CanBus at this time.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on April 03, 2015, 09:47:25 PM
Does this look like the plug you got from BMW? Costs about $10?


http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=56206&rnd=04282014 (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=56206&rnd=04282014)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on April 03, 2015, 10:38:03 PM
That is the canbus plug, (many use it for their GPS!).

The 3 wires are numbered and can be used as follows:
1 - ground
2 - speed pulse (not generally used, so can be ignored)
3 - live
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on April 03, 2015, 11:09:11 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
That is the canbus plug, (many use it for their GPS!).

The 3 wires are numbered and can be used as follows:
1 - ground
2 - speed pulse (not generally used, so can be ignored)
3 - live


Soooooooo.....it'll work, yes?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on April 03, 2015, 11:23:15 PM
I believe it should, I have only used it(on other bikes) to power my GPS, and as a 'switched' source for a fuse box, but I think the 'canbus' circuit that this plugs into can provide 5 amps.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on April 04, 2015, 01:53:25 AM
Miles, it appears that you are using the Canbus to power the low beam with 5A x 12V = 60watts.  Is that correct?  Or is the Canbus powering a relay?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on April 04, 2015, 03:19:36 AM
No, I'm not using the CanBus for anything, really.  I have an auxiliary power block (a PDM-60) set up and all my extras run off that.

I only tested the CanBus powered headlight as an experiment.  The idea occurred to me after setting up the PDM-60, and I wanted to see if there could be an easy fix for those who didn't want to go the route I did.

I tested the auxiliary port and it read 5.4 amps, which is more than the 4.6 amps required to run a 55w headlight.

I am actually running a 22W LED low beam.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on May 31, 2015, 07:42:33 PM
Miles, JBrown and SimonUK

I’m a US owner interested in the lighting conversion (having high and low beam work together) and I want to work this out completely before I move forward.  I’ve got seven questions plus a request that you help me complete a final parts shopping list for this project (e.g., I’m not sure what bulbs you guys are recommending).  I currently have attached directly to the battery an iPhone USB charger and a Powerlet for heated gear…I want to maintain the ability to connect iPhone and Powerlet.  Questions as follows:

1)   Seems that connecting all that stuff (USB, Powerlet and any solution relating to the low beam/high beam issue) to the PDM-60 would be the way to go, right?  In other words, it’s just an electronics relay, right?
2)   If yes to question one, is the PDM-60 the BEST option…is there another model that I should consider?
3)   Is space saving the only effect of using the Lit-Ion battery?  Space saving makes all the sense in the world to me, I just want to be sure my bike doesn’t wind up under-batteried.  Is this battery as powerful as the stock unit?
4)   If I go down this route, will my bike display an error message?
5)   Are you replacing both of the stock bulbs with LEDs?
6)   Do I need to purchase a different type of socket to fit the LEDs, or whatever bulb you guys are currently recommending?
7)   Can you confirm that you haven’t experienced any problem related to excessive heat build-up or battery drainage related to these modifications?

Preliminary shopping/parts list:

1)   PDM-60
2)   Lit-Ion battery
3)   Bulbs…but what kind?

I’m looking forward to getting some help here so that I can engineer a well tested modification to fix the high beam issue and provide for additional power socket options.  If I get something installed on my bike, I’ll gladly post a thorough step-by-step and parts list.  I’m not an electronics expert, but I’m pretty good at taking things apart and putting them together.  Any warnings and helpful hints regarding the ramifications of making this change from the perspective of an electronics expert is greatly appreciated.  Hope you guys can help me make this modification idiot proof, as I’ll bet it may be of interest to a number of S1000R owners.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on May 31, 2015, 09:05:01 PM
The PDM-60 is an excellent product. I'd say that if you want to run more than one accessory of your bike the PDM is a must-have.

The Li-Ion batteries save weight as well as space, and work great on our bikes. I'm running a Braille battery in my bike and have had zero problems with it.

No error codes.

I had bad luck with the high beam LED, but another board member found a different kit that seems to work well. Look around for his thread and you'll find it. I'd go that route.  Go ahead and buy a pair of LEFs, but remember that the highness is a 9005 and the low is an H7.

LEDs do generate heat, but the bulbs all have their own heats sinks and cooling fans. They draw far less juice than halogens, so you'll experience less battery drain.


Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on June 01, 2015, 03:12:44 AM
pacpal1

As miles says the PDM60 is a top rate product, I have one installed on both my S1000R and K1300S.

Unlike miles, I have HIDs installed and not LEDs. I have a 35w H7 bulb installed on the low beam (powered from the PDM60, but you could just use a 12v relay) and I have a 35w 9005/HB3 bulb on the high beam.

As for your case, yes you could install a PDM60, another option for you is to just get a 12v car relay and use that to power your low beam. There is a small gap infront of the battery on the righthand side next to the abs pump where a relay will fit quite nicely. you can take your ground and +ve supply from the battery, run a wire from the rear license plate light for your switched power source and then you will need to run a ground and power line upto the low beam housing.

As far as batteries, I have had a Lithium Ferrous polymer battery in my K1300S for 3 years now, as a general rule the battery turns the bike over at a faster rate than the OEM battery ever did.
It has some issues when it is really cold outside (well below freezing, she always starts in the garage, but if I stop after a short ride below freezing she may not turn over, but will push start real easy and then I do not have problems. this is a fairly well documented issue with the chemistry and there are easy soultions documented out there). I have not had to charge the battery, even whent he bike has been laid up for a few months.
I ought my S100)R used and the previous owner had installed a Lithium Ferrous Polymer battery. I am happy with them! the batteries are substantially smaller and weigh much, much less.

Bulbs, as stated above, Low beam is a H7 and the high beam is a 9005/HB3.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on June 01, 2015, 04:35:09 AM
To add more information to the information Simon just added, I'm actually running an LED low beam and an HID high beam.  If you've read through this thread, you'll see I've explained why that is.  If I'd have been happy with the LED I bought for the high beam I would have stayed with it, but the HID I installed is very, very bright- so I can't complain.

The issue with cold starting and Li-Ion batteries has an easy workaround.  Simply flip the key to on and let it sit like that for a minute or so.  I turn the key on, get my helmet, gloves and whatnot on, then start the bike.  That minute or two of power draw warms the battery enough to start the bike right up.  Of course, I don't live in Minnesota so I have no experience with truly frigid temperatures, but it does work just fine when the temps drop to just below freezing and the bike sits out all night.

Here is the parts list I have going on my bike:
Braille Li-Ion battery
PDM-60
HID high beam, 9005
LED low beam, H7
Pair of accessory LED driving lights
Powerlet socket for heated gear (Located in the side of my battery box, right behind the left passenger peg hanger)
Dual USB outlet for my electronics (up front)
Digital voltmeter gauge (up by my dash)



The voltmeter was so I could see if I were overloading the alternator.  Every time I've added anything new to the system I've checked by running everything full blast (grips on high, heated jacket turned up full, high beams plus driving lights plus low beam on, etc) to see if it caused the charging system to drop below 13 volts at idle.  So far it hasn't, so if you don't plan on running anything more than I am, don't bother with the voltmeter.  You'll be fine.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on June 01, 2015, 12:58:40 PM
thanks for the good info there miles  :152:, any chance you could post a photo of your Powerlet socket?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: empty_infinity on July 07, 2015, 06:40:21 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Here are the step by step instructions:

It's actually really straightforward. The problem isn't the high beam- it's that the low beam shuts off. The solution is to wire it so the low beam stays on full time when the bike is running.

The way to do this is to get the auxiliary outlet connector from your dealer, and an H11 headlight socket from Pep Boys (or Kragen or wherever else).

Remove the right side fairing, tank cover and right side headlight shroud (the painted piece with the turn signal sticking out. You don't have to remove the signal itself, but when you pull the shroud side panel you'll need to unplug the signal wire).

The auxiliary plug is right there in plain sight under the side fairing.  Make sure the connector the dealer gave you works.  It might not. If it does, plug it in and leave it there.

Turn the bars to the left so you can access the back side of the right headlight. There's a round plastic cover hiding the bulb. Remove this and pull the bulb. This wil be an incredible pain in the neck. When you get it out, unplug the bulb from the wiring harness and plug the bulb into the socket you bought. If it fits well, go ahead and reinstall the bulb and cover piece, leaving the wire ends from the new socket out where you can reach them.

Now connect the two, the auxiliary connector and the new bulb socket.  Route the wiring up under the tank cover and out following along with the other things that go out the front part of the cover.  Use tiny zip ties to keep everything organized and neat.

Check your work. Turn on the bike and make sure the low beam actually works. If it does, button everything up and pat yourself on the back.
If it doesn't, you have done something wrong somewhere- probably a bad connection. Check everything and test again until it does work.

So miles, I'm still unclear on one step - how does one get the new H7 plug coming from the CANBUS port into the low beam housing with the dust cover?  It would seem the only way to "cure" the low beam is not be using the dust cover or modify it, since the system is typically a fully closed enclosure?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 07, 2015, 08:34:30 PM
The key that you might be missing is that you take the stock bulb socket and stuff it up behind the gauges or something like that. It gets pulled out of the way and the new one fits where it used to be.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: HOLLYW00D on July 27, 2015, 06:45:48 AM
Just a heads-up:  I ended up using #1 and #2 wires on the pigtail.  In my situation, #1 was 12v and #2 wire was ground.  Also, in my case, polarity mattered when connecting the pigtail wires to the LED low beam bulb.  Now, my low beam is connected to the CanBus connector by the horn.  Light is bright as ever, and no perceivable side effects.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 16, 2015, 02:35:47 AM
I don't have any auxiliary equipment I need to run. I think I'm going to have to give the CanBus and LEDs a try.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 16, 2015, 02:46:56 AM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
I don't have any auxiliary equipment I need to run. I think I'm going to have to give the CanBus and LEDs a try.


That's the second easiest way.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 16, 2015, 10:30:02 PM
New idea..for all the electrical gurus out there.
 
Has anyone tried just jumpering the 12v+ power lead that goes to the high beam to the low beam and leaving everything else attached? That way when high beams turn on, the lows will still get power. There will be a moment where the lows are being powered from two sources, but since the bike shares a common power source, it should be ok!? I suppose the source leads would need to be large enough to power both, but if someone (me :) )were to upgrade the high beam to HID, that would only be 35w instead of 55w normally. I'm guessing the stock wiring is over-sized there, and the runs are short.

Seems like this would work and avoid dash lights from popping up due to a disconnected low beam wire. It would just be pulling a bit more current on the high beam line when its on than normal.

BTW, some words to the wise.. There are what appears to be two aux power hookups on our bike, but this is not the case. The one on the left (as seated) is a normal switched power source for GPS etc. The right side is some canbus or lap timing malarkey, which I don't get. Its behavior is strange if you test it with a meter while switching the bike on and off. Took me a while and some web searching to figure this out! The plugs are the same, so it is confusing.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 16, 2015, 10:47:46 PM
*Originally Posted by Sub [+]
New idea..for all the electrical gurus out there.
 
Has anyone tried just jumpering the 12v+ power lead that goes to the high beam to the low beam and leaving everything else attached? That way when high beams turn on, the lows will still get power.

I am no electrical guru, but would that setup also mean that the high beam is on all the time as well??

Secondly, I am pretty sure that there are no LAMPF errors when either the low or high beam bulbs go out, and if there is it can be turned off in the 'Setup' menu. I think that this is all in the manual.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 16, 2015, 11:37:16 PM
The current draw would be higher and need a bigger gauge wire. I don't know if the bulbs are the same wattage or on the same fuse though.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 18, 2015, 03:21:10 PM
I called the local BMW dealership to try to ask for the CAN bus for the headlights. I mentioned in passing that I wanted to keep the low beam on. The guy at the dealership tried to explain that it shouldn't turn off and I should drop the bike off to see if it's a warranty repair issue. I explained that my understanding is US law requires the low beam to turn off when high beams are on. I was put on hold while he conversed with his "S1000R guru" and the guys in the service department. He was still adamant this is abnormal behavior.

Does anyone know the DOT regulation that covers the high beam and low beam? I'd like to think the guys at my dealership aren't idiots considering the next closest one is over three hours away.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 18, 2015, 03:42:48 PM
Well, they are idiots.  Just tell them to try it with any bike on the showroom floor and see what happens.

The regulation isn't about high/low per se, but left/right.  If the R had the lights stacked vertically both could be on at the same time.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 18, 2015, 03:58:09 PM
Actually, in retrospect my Hondas kept the low beam on the same time as the high beam from my recollection. They were both H7 bulbs, the low beam would always be on, and switching the high beam would make the other side light up leaving both on. Here is a photo of a 2007 Honda CBR1000RR. Ignore the HID upgrade, the headlight behavior is common.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 18, 2015, 04:08:58 PM
The regs are new.  My 2010 S1000RR kept both on as well.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 18, 2015, 04:10:43 PM
Got it. Do you have a link to the DOT regulation or remember where you found that info?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 18, 2015, 04:17:04 PM
Somebody posted it in this thread, I think.  It wasn't me that found it, though, so you'll have to do a search.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on August 18, 2015, 05:03:15 PM
The US DOT regulations are in FMVSS 108...  see somewhere around S10.17

http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?node=se49.6.571_1108 (http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?node=se49.6.571_1108)

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 18, 2015, 05:07:19 PM
My K1300S keeps all 3 on, and my wife's water-cooled GS also keeps both on.

In fact I just got back form my local BMW dealer and checked both the 2015 RR and 2015 XR, and on both of those bikes the low beam stays on when the high is turned on. Go figure!!  :027: :027:

I would have to hazard a guess that this would be a fairly simple re-program in the ECU for BMW!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on August 18, 2015, 05:13:42 PM
I am working on an ECU programming solution. Stay tuned! 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 18, 2015, 05:15:38 PM
sorry to bore y'all, but this is the relevant paragraphs, and I can see nowhere where it states that the low beam has to shut off!

If this transcript is not allowed, MODs please feel free to delete this post.

S10.17   Motorcycle headlighting systems. A motorcycle headlighting system may consist of:

(a) One half of any headlighting system of Table II which provides both a full upper beam and full lower beam, and is designed to conform to the requirements for that headlamp type. Where more than one lamp must be used, the lamps shall be mounted vertically, with the lower beam as high as practicable, or

(b) A headlighting system designed to conform to the requirements of paragraphs S10.17.1 through S10.17.5.

S10.17.1   Installation. The headlighting system installed on a motorcycle must consist of one of the system types specified in this paragraph, and must be located on the front.

S10.17.1.1   Single headlamp.

S10.17.1.1.1   If the system consists of a single headlamp, it must be mounted on the vertical centerline of the motorcycle.

S10.17.1.1.2   If the headlamp contains more than one light source, each light source must be mounted on the vertical centerline with the upper beam no higher than the lower beam, or horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline and mounted at the same height.

S10.17.1.1.3   If the light sources are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of the effective projected luminous lens area in front of the light sources must not be greater than 200 mm.

S10.17.1.2   Two headlamps with both beams.

S10.17.1.2.1   If the system consists of two headlamps, each of which provides both an upper and lower beam, the headlamps must be mounted either at the same height and symmetrically disposed about the vertical centerline or mounted on the vertical centerline.

S10.17.1.2.2   If the headlamps are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of their effective projected luminous lens areas must not be greater than 200 mm.

S10.17.1.3   Two headlamps, upper beam and lower beam.

S10.17.1.3.1   If the system consists of two headlamps, one of which provides an upper beam and one of which provides the lower beam, the headlamps must be located on the vertical centerline with the upper beam no higher than the lower beam, or horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline and mounted at the same height.

S10.17.1.3.2   If the headlamps are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of their effective projected luminous lens areas must not be greater than 200 mm.

S10.17.2   Motorcycle replaceable bulb headlamp marking. Each replaceable bulb headlamp that is designed to conform to S10.17(b) and that is equipped with a light source other than a replaceable light source meeting the requirements of S11, must have the word “motorcycle” permanently marked on the lens in characters not less than 3 mm in height.

S10.17.3   Photometry. Each motorcycle headlamp that is not designed to conform to S10.17(a), must be designed to conform to the photometry requirements of Table XX when tested according to the procedure of S14.2.5.

S10.17.4   Physical tests. Each motorcycle headlamp that is not designed to conform to S10.17(a) must be designed to conform to the performance requirements of the vibration test, moisture test, dust test, and corrosion test of S14.5, the out of focus test of S14.3, the color test of S14.4, and each motorcycle headlamp that does not incorporate a glass lens must be designed to conform to the performance requirements of the plastic optical materials test of S14.4.

S10.17.5   Motorcycle headlamp modulation system. A headlamp on a motorcycle may be activated to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity, provided that:

S10.17.5.1   Modulation.

(a) The rate of modulation must be 240 ±40 cycles per minute.

(b) The headlamp must be operated at maximum power for 50 to 70 percent of each cycle.

(c) The lowest intensity at any test point must be not less than 17 percent of the maximum intensity measured at the same point.

(d) The modulator switch must be wired in the power lead of the beam filament being modulated and not in the ground side of the circuit.

(e) Means must be provided so that both the lower beam and upper beam remain operable in the event of a modulator failure.

(f) The system must include a sensor mounted with the axis of its sensing element perpendicular to a horizontal plane. Headlamp modulation must cease whenever the level of light emitted by a tungsten filament light operating at 3000° Kelvin is either less than 270 lux of direct light for upward pointing sensors or less than 60 lux of reflected light for downward pointing sensors. The light is measured by a silicon cell type light meter that is located at the sensor and pointing in the same direction as the sensor. A Kodak Gray Card (Kodak R-27) is placed at ground level to simulate the road surface in testing downward pointing sensors.

(g) When tested in accordance with the test profile shown in Figure 9, the voltage drop across the modulator when the lamp is on at all test conditions for 12 volt systems and 6 volt systems must not be greater than 0.45 volt. The modulator must meet all the provisions of the standard after completion of the test profile shown in Figure 9.

(h) Means must be provided so that both the lower and upper beam function at design voltage when the headlamp control switch is in either the lower or upper beam position when the modulator is off.

S10.17.5.2   Replacement modulators. Each modulator not intended as original equipment, or its container, must be labeled with the maximum wattage, and the minimum wattage appropriate for its use.

S10.17.5.2.1   Replacement performance. Each modulator, not intended as original equipment, must comply with S10.17.5.1 (a) through (g) when connected to a headlamp of the maximum rated power and a headlamp of the minimum rated power, and must provide means so that the modulated beam functions at design voltage when the modulator is off.

S10.17.5.2.2   Replacement instructions. Instructions, with a diagram, must be provided for mounting the light sensor including location on the motorcycle, distance above the road surface, and orientation with respect to the light.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on August 18, 2015, 05:17:44 PM
You know, I've always passed along this bit of wisdom based on the understanding that it was the confusion of the distance between the lights when both are burning that was the issue.  But reading through the regulation, I couldn't find anything about that.  It only mentions:

"The wiring harness or connector assembly of each headlighting system must be designed so that only those light sources intended for meeting lower beam photometrics are energized when the beam selector switch is in the lower beam position, and that only those light sources intended for meeting upper beam photometrics are energized when the beam selector switch is in the upper beam position..."

This makes me think I may have been forwarding an urban legend.  So maybe I'll stop.  The one about the baby snakes living in the sewers and coming up through the toilets to bite you on the sack, that one is real.  For goodness sake, look down before you sit!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: terpion on August 18, 2015, 07:33:38 PM
Have any of you affected by this written to BMW HQ to ask why the US version is set up that way? Just saying...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on August 18, 2015, 08:10:09 PM
We have the same thing here in Canada.

I asked my dealer and according to them it's regulations...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 18, 2015, 08:14:32 PM
*Originally Posted by jucam [+]
We have the same thing here in Canada.

I asked my dealer and according to them it's regulations...

Not questioning you, but it appears to be regulations only for the S1000R  :187: :187: :187:

If your dealer is close by, ask them to start up a 15 RR and a 15 XR (engine has to run for high beam), and see if the low beam turns off when the high beam turns on?? I was at mine at lunchtime and both lights stay on, on both bikes!!! Makes no sense!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 18, 2015, 11:56:29 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
sorry to bore y'all, but this is the relevant paragraphs, and I can see nowhere where it states that the low beam has to shut off!

If this transcript is not allowed, MODs please feel free to delete this post.

Not boring. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 18, 2015, 11:57:19 PM
I may have to go to the dealership. And have them fire up the 2015 they have on the lot.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 18, 2015, 11:58:21 PM
*Originally Posted by Shasta McNasty [+]
I am working on an ECU programming solution. Stay tuned!

Nice. I'm not sure if I would be more excited if it was a simple switch or a quick ECU fix.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 19, 2015, 12:05:46 AM
*Originally Posted by BillB [+]
You know, I've always passed along this bit of wisdom based on the understanding that it was the confusion of the distance between the lights when both are burning that was the issue.  But reading through the regulation, I couldn't find anything about that.  It only mentions:

"The wiring harness or connector assembly of each headlighting system must be designed so that only those light sources intended for meeting lower beam photometrics are energized when the beam selector switch is in the lower beam position, and that only those light sources intended for meeting upper beam photometrics are energized when the beam selector switch is in the upper beam position..."

This makes me think I may have been forwarding an urban legend.  So maybe I'll stop.  The one about the baby snakes living in the sewers and coming up through the toilets to bite you on the sack, that one is real.  For goodness sake, look down before you sit!

I see where it says the two lamps must be at least 200 mm apart. Haven't measured the distance between the lamps yet though.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 19, 2015, 12:06:22 AM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
I may have to go to the dealership. And have them fire up the 2015 they have on the lot.

Please do, just to confirm my findings today. Note the 15 RR and XR both beams stay ON.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 19, 2015, 12:09:38 AM
*Originally Posted by Shasta McNasty [+]
I am working on an ECU programming solution. Stay tuned!

I have the GS-911 (that works with the newer BMWs BMSX??), and sent requests to Hexcode to see if they could get the lighting function included in one of their new software releases. So far no news on that front.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 19, 2015, 01:21:30 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I have the GS-911 (that works with the newer BMWs BMSX??), and sent requests to Hexcode to see if they could get the lighting function included in one of their new software releases. So far no news on that front.

I did that a year ago.  Never got any response.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on August 19, 2015, 01:32:39 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
I haven't had the chance to ride at night since I installed the HID, so I can't really say yet. It seems to be throwing plenty of light, but I can't judge until I get out on a dark back road.

I got a 50 watt Morimoto Elite. I got it from http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/).

And yes, that is a Husky 450 SMR. A total blast in a self-abusive sort of way.

Miles, I was wondering if you looked into the motorcycle stage 2 duel from the retro fit source. Description claims if you have 2 lights their duel hid kit can both lights high and low beams.



Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 19, 2015, 04:58:56 AM
The problem with H4-style HID lights is that they use a mechanical shutter to switch between high beam and low beam.  I've always viewed that with a bit of distrust, and early versions (at least.  Maybe they are better now) did have a lot of reliability problems.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 19, 2015, 06:06:05 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I am no electrical guru, but would that setup also mean that the high beam is on all the time as well??

You're right, of course!

Ok, what if we put a dpdt relay there.. Use the highs to trigger the lows. Then there is no current draw issue on the high beam line (we would power lows from the battery directly). The only issue may be that we'd be back feeding 12v on the low beam line when it's shut off. Is that a problem?!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 19, 2015, 07:57:25 AM
Something like that was my initial thought but it just seemed too fiddly when all I wanted was a low beam that simply stays on all the time.

The simplest solution is to simply power the low beam all the time, right?

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 19, 2015, 12:48:04 PM
 :0461:

A simple relay would suffice, wired direct to the battery and a switched source. Or if you have a PDM60 (or other) fitted utilize that (as Miles and myself have done).
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on August 20, 2015, 01:33:41 AM
Thanks guys for all the good info. SimonUK, are you using  some kind of running lights, in the original turn signal location? I contacted  retro fit today, sounds like it's possible to make both lights work together  as  high and low beems  , but extremely difficult.  For now, I'm just gonna power low beem off canbus. HID install coming  this winter.  I'm much better mechanical then electrical.  Working on my own shorty slip on now and this winter,  I want to make a bellypan that blends in with the factory chin spoiler.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 02:03:42 AM
*Originally Posted by Dflavell [+]
Thanks guys for all the good info. SimonUK, are you using  some kind of running lights, in the original turn signal location?

Yes, when I bought my bike (used) it had the Rizoma Veloce mirrors fitted with integral turn signals. The original owner ahd just left the place where the OEM signals were blank. I had a couple of LED bullets which I fitted.

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/P1010240.jpg)

http://electricalconnection.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_27&product_id=123 (http://electricalconnection.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_27&product_id=123)

I also fitted a pair of Denali DM1-Micro to the top inside of the radiator fairing

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/P1010243.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/P1010242.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/P1010241.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 03:40:40 PM
*Originally Posted by terpion [+]
Have any of you affected by this written to BMW HQ to ask why the US version is set up that way? Just saying...

Sent this to Customer Service:

Hi,

I have a fairly simple and straight forward question in regards to my 2014
S1000R (and I am sure most other US owners will be interested in the answer
as well).

When we turn on our high beam the low beam switches off, please could you
inform me as to why this happens  (only on this particular bike)??
I sometimes have to ride at night to get home and the low beam does not
light up the road very far ahead, and the high beam only illuminates a
small portion of the road in the distance. This for me is not a very safe
situation!!

There has been rumours circulating that this is some Federal Regulation,
however it only seems to affect the S1000R. I was in my local dealer today
and checked both the 2015 S1000RR and the 2015 S1000XR and on both of these
bikes the low beam bulb remained illuminated when turning on the high beam!!

I look forward to your prompt reply, daylight is starting to recede and
longer nights are setting in, which means the potential for more night time
riding with poor inadequate lights.

Best regards, Simon Darch.

ps absolutely love this bike apart from the poor light situation.


Got a return call within 2 days from customer service, which I thought was fairly good!! However, the reply from CS was not that impressive -
basically the guy said that they have no access to any technical details, was unable to follow up anywhere with the 'mothership' as they did not have any contact details and that I should speak to the technicians at my dealership as they are best placed to know why it was like this on my bike.  Trying to explain to him that every NA S1000R was setup the same and overseas bikes were not was like trying to ram a square peg into a round hole.

Even though I have my lights sorted (thanks miles for the fix), I am still going to try to get to the bottom of this, though it may be one of those never ending stories!!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on August 20, 2015, 04:06:14 PM
Thanks for the effort, Simon.  I'm actually stunned you received any response at all, let alone a timely (albeit useless) one.

It sure would be nice to flip a bit and get both lights burning...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 04:40:06 PM
I work 5 minutes from my dealer and have a really good rapport with the 3 techs there (ride with them as well).

It is not surprising to say that they looked at me in stunned silence when I posed this question, not because they are no good (in fact I rate them highly), but because because they kno wthat this is programmed from the factory like this and is completely out of their realm of control!!

So, unfortunately I(we) still have no clue as to the logic behind this. One of the managers had a thought about max lumens and if the high puts out a lot of light, but I am pretty sure that the 1600 with their 2 projector beams put out a lot more!! and I am pretty sure that my K1300S with it's 3x 55w lights (lo and hi beams stay on together) puts out way more light.

Am not going to drop it completely, but stumped as to where to go from here!   :431: :431:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 20, 2015, 06:54:23 PM
I'm stumped too. The guys in the service department were stumped at my local dealership. They wanted to keep the bike to try to figure it out and claimed it may something that can be fixed under warranty. I have no intention of leaving my bike there for them to monkey around with if there is no solution. When I mentioned it seemed to be common among all the other S1000Rs in North America they blew me off. They turn their nose up when someone mentions "online forums". They just got another 2015 in so I'm going to ride up there tomorrow to see if it behaves the same.

I'm guessing it's just not a very good dealership. When I talked to the parts guy and was asking about the harness and pigtail for the OA plug on the bike he was thoroughly confused and tried to sell a 12 V cigarette light style plug. When I pulled the fairings and showed him the blanked off pigtail he went through the parts diagrams and tried to tell me they only sell repair plugs for the bike-side harness. They didn't the piece that mates to it.

For those of you that have experience with the port I want to hook up to the grey connector on the left side of the bike correct? And is it PN 83300413585?

Will this socket plug into the grey connector (PN 61138060106)? http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsDetails.aspx?source=catalog&diagram=EL_8060106 (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/PartsDetails.aspx?source=catalog&diagram=EL_8060106)

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on August 20, 2015, 07:02:33 PM
Yes, that's it, will plug into the navi connector on the left side.  My dealer (BMW Motorcycles of Southeast Michigan--great shop, they knew exactly what I wanted) had it in stock for about 10 bucks. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 20, 2015, 07:04:42 PM
Part 585 is it, or part 106? And by left side do you mean the black plug, or the left side grey connector?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 07:17:56 PM
I am pretty sure the one you need is item#6, part no 83300413585, it has 3 yellow wires - gnd, 12v and a pulse. Obviously you only need the gnd and 12v.

the Black plug that you show a picture is the standard BMW auxcilliary socket plug that you find on most of their larger bikes, (similar to a cigarette lighter socket in a car).
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 20, 2015, 07:24:03 PM
So, the black male cigarette lighter would be fed power from the black connector on my bike?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 07:31:05 PM
Afraid not. I don't believe our bikes have the auxiliary socket fitted anywhere.

The black plug plugs into something like this - http://www.powerlet.com/product/powerlet-socket-only/280 (http://www.powerlet.com/product/powerlet-socket-only/280)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 07:35:29 PM
'Black plug and socket'
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: DRoss on August 20, 2015, 08:05:47 PM
At any rate the can bus power you are trying to use won't power the head lights on its own 10 that yellow wire is rated at 10 watts head light is 55 watts I think led would still be 22 watts. Could probably use it to switch a power block.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 08:12:54 PM
*Originally Posted by DRoss [+]
At any rate the can bus power you are trying to use won't power the head lights on its own 10 that yellow wire is rated at 10 watts head light is 55 watts I think led would still be 22 watts. Could probably use it to switch a power block.

Whilst I am not disputing if the yellow wire can only handle 10 watts or not, the can bus plug puts out a max of 5 amps (60 watts). I find it a little strange that BMW would sell a plug for that application that was way underrated - just means numpties like me would assume that it could handle the full load   :012: :012:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on August 20, 2015, 08:15:58 PM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
Part 585 is it, or part 106? And by left side do you mean the black plug, or the left side grey connector?

P/N 83300413585.  It is white with yellow wires.  #06 on the parts fiche photo, the one you have expanded.  Will plug into the front-most (open) connector on the left side of S1000R.  BMW calls it a "repair connector" but it's absolutely what you want to tap power from the OA connector.  Although, the wire gauge is pretty thin for headlights :084:  I use it for a GPS which is fine. 

Forget about the Powerlet-style or cigarette lighter style plugs--they are not found on the S1000R unless you put them on yourself. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on August 20, 2015, 08:17:40 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Whilst I am not disputing if the yellow wire can only handle 10 watts or not, the can bus plug puts out a max of 5 amps (60 watts). I find it a little strange that BMW would sell a plug for that application that was way underrated - just means numpties like me would assume that it could handle the full load   :012: :012:

It works fine for the intended application--a GPS, not a headlight. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 08:43:15 PM
 :0461:

but my point is that is the only plug you can find to go there and that outlet 'can' supply 5 amps before tripping.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on August 20, 2015, 09:10:45 PM
Is 5A the actual BMW spec, or another piece of folklore?   :008:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 20, 2015, 09:21:05 PM
When you see the wire you wont want to run even one amp through it. :) Its very thin gauge wire.

You could switch a normal 12v Bosch type relay (radio shack et al) with it though and get all the amps u want. :)

But if you're going to do that, might as well just tap the low beam headlight wire and use a relay there and save the $25 the connector will cost you
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 20, 2015, 09:26:48 PM
I took pictures of the wires. They are probably 18 or 22 gauge.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 20, 2015, 09:36:39 PM
This is what the accessory plug should look like for the s1000r - I got mine at MAXbmw.  Part Number is 83300413585 "REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656" -it's about $25, although the website incorrectly says $9.19 at the moment!

**NOTE: although there appears to be two plugs on our bikes (one either side of the bike), only the one behind the upper left side of the fairing will work as an accessory outlet for GPS/radar detector, alarm, etc. The other side is for the lap timer/canbus or something. The bundled zip tied plug attached to the bike will have a little black rain cover on it you need to remove.

(http://www.nippynormans.com/content/img/Product/lge/GAR_CANBUSZU660B.jpg)
(https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/NotesParts/83300413585_2_B.jpg?rnd=164447727)
(https://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/NotesParts/83300413585_1_B.jpg?rnd=164447727)

I cant recall if the wire is labeled or the plug itself but here are the wire descriptions:
#1=Ground
#3=Hot: will have 12 volts when the bike is turned on
(Just cut and tape wire #2 off)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 20, 2015, 10:22:02 PM
I know the wire, I have that plug on my K1300S, S1000R and my wife's R1200GS.

Maybe my assumption was wrong that this plug would provice the same max amps as the aux outlets do on other bikes, who knows!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on August 20, 2015, 10:27:46 PM
I did some digging a while ago and to quote myself:

"the manual indicates that fuse 6 (7.5A) is for the OA connector and the license plate light.  The OA connectors are fed by the ZFE module.  So, if the plate light bulb is .5A, my hunch now is that the current is shared between the plugs."

If the ZFE limits the current per plug (which I suspect) I can't seem to figure out.  Though, now that I think about it, I recently shorted my license plate light wire and blew the fuse.  So, all 7.5A went to the short (momentarily).  Maybe there isn't any current limiting going on...  :084:

https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,1898.msg22813.html#msg22813 (https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,1898.msg22813.html#msg22813)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 20, 2015, 10:49:04 PM
*Originally Posted by Shasta McNasty [+]
Is 5A the actual BMW spec, or another piece of folklore?   :008:


My voltmeter calls the right side plug out at 5.4 amps.  I never tested the left side.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 21, 2015, 01:09:29 AM
Are you referring to the sides if you were looking at the bike from the front, or from the rider's seat? I thought the wires were flipped on the right hand side.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 21, 2015, 01:59:09 AM
Sitting on the bike, left side is the correct aux plug to tap into. Right side one does some funky stuff if you measure it.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 21, 2015, 04:12:34 AM
*Originally Posted by Sub [+]
Sitting on the bike, left side is the correct aux plug to tap into. Right side one does some funky stuff if you measure it.


The right side seemed to work when I tested it.   :027:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 21, 2015, 12:50:56 PM
*Originally Posted by Sub [+]
Sitting on the bike, left side is the correct aux plug to tap into. Right side one does some funky stuff if you measure it.

Also using this one (for my GPS  :001:)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: HOLLYW00D on August 21, 2015, 01:18:32 PM
i used wires #1 and #2, with the pigtail plugged into the canbus plug by the horn to power my low beam LED (replaced factory bulb with opt7 LED kit).  i don't recall which number is 12v on the pigtail (always use multimeter), but the brown wire on the harness-side is ground.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on August 22, 2015, 11:12:01 PM
Wish I would have listened to this thread in lieu of the owner's manual. Bought a pair of H7 bulbs today only to pull the high beam, see it looks weird, and read 9005 stamped on the back of the bulb plastic adapter.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 23, 2015, 03:50:57 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]

The right side seemed to work when I tested it.   :027:
Was the bike on or off? Was it during the one minute shut off timer mode? I saw it actually reverse polarity I think.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 23, 2015, 05:08:40 AM
Well, it would have to have been with the engine running, because the photo I took had the high beam on as well.

I'm pretty sure it was on longer than a minute, but I wouldn't swear to it.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 23, 2015, 05:09:34 AM
I'm planning on doing a bunch of bulb swapping tomorrow, so I'll retest it and see what happens.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jjsc6 on August 24, 2015, 02:01:37 PM
*Originally Posted by Sub [+]
This is what the accessory plug should look like for the s1000r - I got mine at MAXbmw.  Part Number is 83300413585 "REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656" -it's about $25, although the website incorrectly says $9.19 at the moment.....

I just bought one from my dealer. It was just over $10.00 with tax.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on August 24, 2015, 04:24:53 PM
 First time riding in the fog this morning, on stock headlights. Not good @ 4:30am, when you live out in the middle of nowhere, in deer country. Ordered the auxiliary plug Friday.Called the dealer I purchased bike from, dealer said around $10. Shipping to my house was double the price. So I called the BMW dealer closest. They said $25 for same part no. I told them that couldn't be right. They did some checking and said the first dealer was right. Their was some mistake with the pricing. IDK. Just hope my e experience with new lights is better then this morning ride to work.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on August 24, 2015, 06:37:52 PM
Ok cool, good to know!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on September 02, 2015, 04:27:26 PM
OK guys.. I , have canbus connector, ready to order bulbs. Miles wanted to make sure their wasn't any issues with the 50watt Hid bulb, you are using. I was planning on using 50watt. Hid bulbs for both,  with the canbus powering low beams.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on September 02, 2015, 04:47:43 PM
I have 35w HID in lo and hi and they are a vast improvement over stock. Have to work on my headlight alignment, but don't get out much at night, so do not really know where they point, apart from the lo is very low at the moment.

I have 50w in my K1300S, they work great as well.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 02, 2015, 07:33:45 PM
I've been running a 50w HID high beam with no issues. The low beam at 50w is less than the OEM 55w halogen, which I tested with the canbus plug, so it should be fine.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on September 05, 2015, 11:26:13 AM
 Were would be the best place to install both ballasts. Doesn't look like enough room behind headlight for both of them?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 05, 2015, 02:31:31 PM
LED ballasts are small enough to fit in the nose. HID ballasts go behind the side panels.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on September 05, 2015, 03:35:47 PM
Thanks Miles, I spoke with the retro fit source on ordering duel HID high and low kit. They said for $20. Extra they will make me up a correctional splitter that will keep the low beam illuminated when switched to high. Uses a diode to pass power through to dims without letting power pass back through.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kenmosher on September 05, 2015, 08:29:41 PM
OK, playing around with this now that I have the LEDs all installed and working in the "stock" configuration.  I bought the 83 30 0 413 585 repair plug and starting investigation.

I must be missing something obvious ... The plug does plug in fine to the RIGHT (as you sit on the bike) side OA plug fine.  I get what looks like 12 volts on both wires #1 and #3 and #2 looks to maybe be Ground.

However, it doesn't seem to produce enough amperage to even drive a relay correctly using either #1 or #3 (and directly to ground ... not through the plug at all).  Fair enough, so I go to the plug on the other side ... no joy, the plug seems to be keyed completely backwards from the repair plug!  What?  Sure enough though, it's keyed different.

Mine is a new 2015, and maybe they changed something?  Any words of wisdom?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on September 06, 2015, 12:51:51 AM
Having trouble with my 2015 too. Had right side headlight cover off, turn signal unpluged with Low beam unpluged. I was getting nothing. I blew the left handlebar switch control 4a fuse.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kenmosher on September 06, 2015, 03:01:06 AM
I'm a dumbass.  On the left side there are TWO capped off plugs and of course being a 50/50 chance, I picked the wrong one. 😋

Tried the other plug and it works as expected.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on September 06, 2015, 07:31:22 AM
on the left side, does the plug only fit in one of the capped off plugs and did you check the voltage,?If so how many amps are you getting from that plug and what number wires did you use.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kenmosher on September 06, 2015, 03:44:23 PM
Yes, it only fits one.  Voltage is normal ~12.5 with key on and engine off and ~13.5 volts engine running. I just scoped out the wires and #2 is not connected and #1 and #3 are power and ground.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on September 06, 2015, 05:30:29 PM
Here are some pictures hopefully to eliminate any future confusion.

On the bike, clutch-side, there are two connectors.  The connector closest to the forks is the one to use.  It has three wires with a brown wire (ground) and a red wire (+12V), the middle purple wire is not used.  The other connector has blue wires with colored stripes.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on September 06, 2015, 07:10:40 PM
Thanks for the info and pics. Gonna give it another try tomorrow morning.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on September 07, 2015, 06:11:24 PM
Just an update from me.. used the left side switched power plug to run a 12v bosch relay, and bypassed the stock low beam wiring completely and ran a normal 55w HID to the low beam to be on all the time. Works great. I didnt even see a lampF error, but maybe someone already messed with the race settings?!

For the high beam I bought a 35w canbus HID kit and run it through factory wiring.

I tried like hell to get the ballasts and ignitor, etc boxes behind the dash, but there is not a great way to strap them out of the way of the steering mechanism, so they are behind the side panels - one each side. They are shoe horned in there! I had to move the horn slightly to get the low beam side to fit.

Very happy with the results.. even with the laminx on the low beam side! I'm lighting up street signs in full daylight and at night I feel safe again.

BTW the high beam side was very tricky to tighten. It took a lot of force to twist and I couldn't do it with my hand. I had to use a vice grips and gently turn till it notched in.

For the low beam, getting the little metal clips back in was a pita too, but a screwdriver was all that was needed.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 07, 2015, 08:20:33 PM
55W HID low beam?  Wow- I'll bet all the oncoming motorists just looooove that!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kenmosher on September 08, 2015, 12:41:56 AM
According to the owners manual, you won't get a lamp error for no headlight/headlight out. Strange, but that's what it says.  I also was successful in using the right plug and powered the low beam headlight directly (LED). I just tied into the positive side spade for the LED headlight and that way the stock power lead also powers the light normally. I was going to use a diode but found that this doesn't seem to cause any problems and I avoid the voltage drop of a diode.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sub on September 08, 2015, 11:50:01 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
55W HID low beam?  Wow- I'll bet all the oncoming motorists just looooove that!
My low beam is yellow, so its not too bright. :) Anywho, who cares about cagers?! :)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/632/21068168148_4544d0b128_z.jpg)

Ken, what "low beam led headlight"? Can you elaborate there?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 14, 2015, 05:11:51 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
thanks for the good info there miles  :152:, any chance you could post a photo of your Powerlet socket?


Sorry this has taken me so long to remember to do.  Here it is:

(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/Powerlet%20socket.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on September 14, 2015, 11:29:33 PM
miles,

How did you secure the Lifetime LED bulb into the low-beam mounting?  I put one in my bike today.  It took a bit to figure out how to get the bulb in there and it seems to seat OK.  However, I can't get to the far side (left side) wire clip and the near side (right side) wire clip I can't get to the hook it is supposed to go over.  I pushed the near side wire clip to behind the housing and routed the lead from the bulb behind it, too, so the bulb appears secure.

How the heck did you secure it?

Dr. D
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 15, 2015, 12:30:03 AM
Tiny little needle nose pliers and a whole lot of foul language.  I wish I could tell you the secret technique, but there isn't one as far as I know.  It's a royal PITA.
Sorry.

Have you pulled the whole front end assembly loose?  It's a lot easier to access it all if you do.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on September 15, 2015, 01:01:47 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]

Have you pulled the whole front end assembly loose?  It's a lot easier to access it all if you do.

No.  Crap.    :232:  I guess I will try that.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 15, 2015, 01:24:38 AM
It's easy.  There are two fasteners at the top and tow pins with c-clips on the bottom.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 15, 2015, 01:25:35 AM
While you're in there swap out the running lights for LEDs, too.  The low beam running light is murder to get at.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: FasteddiesS1KR on September 16, 2015, 03:03:56 AM
*Originally Posted by Sub [+]
Just an update from me.. used the left side switched power plug to run a 12v bosch relay, and bypassed the stock low beam wiring completely and ran a normal 55w HID to the low beam to be on all the time. Works great. I didnt even see a lampF error, but maybe someone already messed with the race settings?!

For the high beam I bought a 35w canbus HID kit and run it through factory wiring.

I tried like hell to get the ballasts and ignitor, etc boxes behind the dash, but there is not a great way to strap them out of the way of the steering mechanism, so they are behind the side panels - one each side. They are shoe horned in there! I had to move the horn slightly to get the low beam side to fit.

Very happy with the results.. even with the laminx on the low beam side! I'm lighting up street signs in full daylight and at night I feel safe again.

BTW the high beam side was very tricky to tighten. It took a lot of force to twist and I couldn't do it with my hand. I had to use a vice grips and gently turn till it notched in.

For the low beam, getting the little metal clips back in was a pita too, but a screwdriver was all that was needed.
Did you have to extend any of the harnesses to make the ballast reach the side panel?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on September 17, 2015, 01:04:44 AM
*Originally Posted by BillB [+]
Here are some pictures hopefully to eliminate any future confusion.

On the bike, clutch-side, there are two connectors.  The connector closest to the forks is the one to use.  It has three wires with a brown wire (ground) and a red wire (+12V), the middle purple wire is not used.  The other connector has blue wires with colored stripes.

So just to double check, we can run this plug from the left side outlet directly to the low beam(or high beam technically) and it will run it just fine even with the small gauge wire?

I tried this on the right side plug and couldn't get it to work, is why i ask.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 17, 2015, 01:05:35 AM
The short answer is "yes".
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on September 17, 2015, 01:08:52 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
The short answer is "yes".
And the long answer?

I have the plug/wires already, I'd love to go knock this out unless there is something tricky to it.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 17, 2015, 01:16:08 AM
The long answer is "Yes, definitely."
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on September 17, 2015, 01:21:49 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
The long answer is "Yes, definitely."
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on September 17, 2015, 01:33:37 AM
 :008:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: HOLLYW00D on September 17, 2015, 02:38:58 AM
I still don't understand why I'm an anomaly and seemingly the only one who is running the low beam from the RIGHT-hand connector; the one by my right knee when sitting on the bike; the one by the horn.  :027:

I plugged the pigtail in the connector on the right-hand side of the bike and used #1 and #2 wires on the pigtail:  #1 was 12v and #2 wire was ground.  Polarity matters.  If you wire up your low beam using #1 and #2 pigtail wires, and the light doesn't work, swap the two leads; your polarity is not right.  :138:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on September 17, 2015, 03:01:35 AM
*Originally Posted by HOLLYW00D [+]
I still don't understand why I'm an anomaly and seemingly the only one who is running the low beam from the RIGHT-hand connector; the one by my right knee when sitting on the bike; the one by the horn.  :027:

I plugged the pigtail in the connector on the right-hand side of the bike and used #1 and #2 wires on the pigtail:  #1 was 12v and #2 wire was ground.  Polarity matters.  If you wire up your low beam using #1 and #2 pigtail wires, and the light doesn't work, swap the two leads; your polarity is not right.  :138:

I may have just been a dumb dumb when I first tried it  :027: . Now that you mention it, I did end up blowing a fuse in the process. After that I got frustrated and put it on the back burner.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: HOLLYW00D on September 17, 2015, 03:15:44 AM
Trashman, my post was not meant to belittle, I hope you didn't take it that way.  I have read several folks attempting the right-hand canbus connector unicorn for low beam, only to run into problems and move to the left-hand side.  For me, the right side was more convenient.  Just wanted to re-share the pigtail leads I used to connect my low beam to the right-hand canbus connector.  Hope it helps someone.  :821:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 17, 2015, 03:23:18 AM
When I did my initial testing (and again a month ago to retest) the right side work fine for me. Others have had problems so maybe things have changed in the production run, but I'd try right side first before the left.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on September 18, 2015, 03:12:19 AM
*Originally Posted by HOLLYW00D [+]
Trashman, my post was not meant to belittle, I hope you didn't take it that way.  I have read several folks attempting the right-hand canbus connector unicorn for low beam, only to run into problems and move to the left-hand side.  For me, the right side was more convenient.  Just wanted to re-share the pigtail leads I used to connect my low beam to the right-hand canbus connector.  Hope it helps someone.  :821:

None taken. This is the internet, everyone needs to chill out.  :821:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on September 22, 2015, 05:45:39 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]

Sorry this has taken me so long to remember to do.  Here it is:

(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/Powerlet%20socket.jpg)

Thanks for the photo miles. I assume that os the 'short' powerlet socket?? And no issues with space inside the box?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 23, 2015, 04:48:04 AM
I'm now running a Braille Li-ion battery which is smaller than the regular one, but the long powerlet socket worked with the standard battery when I first installed it. I simply shoved the battery as far forward in the box as possible.

If you look at the shape of the battery box you can see the flat bottom area is where the battery tests and the powerlet is entirely in the slope-bottomed area.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on September 23, 2015, 01:13:51 PM
Thanks miles.  :028:

I shouldn't have a problem then, I have a Shorai Lithium battery fitted as well.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on September 27, 2015, 04:12:35 PM
Finally got to see the oem bulbs last night and light output is fine..just need to mod so high and low are on together..which way is best if just using oem lights?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 27, 2015, 05:17:57 PM
Easy. Just run a line from the Canbus socket to a new H7 light socket and plug the bulb into the new socket.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on September 28, 2015, 02:21:35 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Easy. Just run a line from the Canbus socket to a new H7 light socket and plug the bulb into the new socket.
Thank you sir!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on September 28, 2015, 11:10:47 PM

I ended up pulling off the headlights enclosure to access the rear of it.  Swapped the parking light bulbs for LED while I was at it.  Then I went to properly secure the low beam bulb and I quickly realized why I was having so much difficulty getting the spring back onto the retainer on the right side:  I had managed to bend the retainer forward so it was nearly flat with the surrounding metal instead of sticking out like the one on the left.  I bent it back out and the spring went on with no issue.  Doh!

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on October 05, 2015, 10:33:42 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
I said I would take pictures during the HID install, but like an idiot I completely forgot.  In any case, I managed to stash the ballast, CanBus corrector and ignitor behind the left side fairing. 

Here is the full HID assembly:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/HIDMess.jpg)

The screwdriver isn't actually part of the HID lighting package- it's just there for scale.

The bulb is in its shipping protector on the lower left.  Above it and to the left is the ignitor.  Directly above the bulb is the connector that plugs into the bike's lighting circuit.  Top right is the CanBus corrector, and the blue ballast is next to the screwdriver.
Miles, did you use a relay with 50w or just pluged into factory connector?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 05, 2015, 04:16:51 PM
No relay needed. It simply wired in to the stock headlight socket.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Trashman on October 08, 2015, 04:28:52 AM
This may be a personal issue, but.......Sometimes when I go to start the bike 1) key to on(HID comes on and warms up) 2) Hit starter, while the bike is cranking the light is flickering. Its at this point where I think the ballast just thinks that there isn't enough juice and it shuts the light off(or something like that). I can either A) ride around with just the running lights/high beam on. Or B) turn the key to the off position, wait a couple seconds and start the process over.

Usually if the bike is warm and it fires up quickly then this doesn't happen, but first thing in the morning its more likely.

I think i'm probably going to rig up a switch so that I can turn the low beam on manually after the bike is running......OR.....LED bulb instead of HID(will probably do this eventually anyway)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 08, 2015, 04:43:23 AM
You're probably correct.  The OEM bulb flickers during start-up, but since it's simply a halogen bulb with no power management system it doesn't matter. 

As per your guess, it is likely that the ballast sees the fluctuation and shuts itself off.  If you want to keep the HID, a solution would be to draw power directly from the battery, but run a relay.  This will stabilize the power supply somewhat.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 08, 2015, 05:04:35 AM
Or if you have a PDM60, power it from there and use the start-up delay function. The PDM60 will also stabilise the power from the battery like a relay.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 08, 2015, 05:19:57 AM
The PDM-60 is sweet, but there's a new kid on the block now: http://www.arborealsystems.com/Arboreal_Systems/Neutrino_intro.html (http://www.arborealsystems.com/Arboreal_Systems/Neutrino_intro.html)

http://youtu.be/3YRzuXkZLz4 (http://youtu.be/3YRzuXkZLz4)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on October 08, 2015, 12:57:09 PM
Sweet baby Jesus!  The Neutrino is awesome!  Website was terrible - took too long to get to the price, I kept saying "shut up and take my money!"

Buuuut, I think only you, miles, have enough accessories that would require such sophisticated control.

I just got suckered into buying a digital sag gauge, I'm sure as heck not gonna get a $300 power block so I can control my accessory lights by lean angle or my heated cod piece by altitude!  [cuts up credit cards]
 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on October 08, 2015, 02:41:07 PM
*Originally Posted by Trashman [+]
This may be a personal issue, but.......Sometimes when I go to start the bike 1) key to on(HID comes on and warms up) 2) Hit starter, while the bike is cranking the light is flickering. Its at this point where I think the ballast just thinks that there isn't enough juice and it shuts the light off(or something like that). I can either A) ride around with just the running lights/high beam on. Or B) turn the key to the off position, wait a couple seconds and start the process over.

Usually if the bike is warm and it fires up quickly then this doesn't happen, but first thing in the morning its more likely.

I think i'm probably going to rig up a switch so that I can turn the low beam on manually after the bike is running......OR.....LED bulb instead of HID(will probably do this eventually anyway)
  I just installed the new VLEDS 45w LED. Unbelievable, they claim 4500 lumens per bulb. Doesn't seem to work well in the high beam projector housing, returning for 50w HID replacement. Their LED running lights worked well too.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 08, 2015, 03:45:23 PM
I had the same experience. The projector lens for the high beam seems very sensitive to bulb design.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on October 09, 2015, 02:21:15 AM
thinking outloud here...i know, crazy...

but what if one were to wire a parallel circuit from a PDM60 to the low beam circuit.....same powersource should not present a problem i would think with the Canbus.....or maybe i am out in left field here...

comments....?????
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 09, 2015, 03:04:15 AM
*Originally Posted by wymanwinn [+]
thinking outloud here...i know, crazy...

but what if one were to wire a parallel circuit from a PDM60 to the low beam circuit.....same powersource should not present a problem i would think with the Canbus.....or maybe i am out in left field here...

comments....?????


That's what many of us have done.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on October 09, 2015, 03:07:15 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]

That's what many of us have done.

thanks Miles.... :002:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 09, 2015, 03:35:23 AM
I really should go back and edit the first post with all we've learned and done.


Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on October 09, 2015, 05:06:52 AM
Miles, I was just thinking today that I need to go back and read this thread and fix this issue.  Would be great if you summarized your ultimate solution.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dflavell on October 15, 2015, 11:18:03 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
I said I would take pictures during the HID install, but like an idiot I completely forgot.  In any case, I managed to stash the ballast, CanBus corrector and ignitor behind the left side fairing. 

Here is the full HID assembly: miles, installing the 50w Morimo ballest now. Were did you install ballest, behind the left side panel, behind the canbus connection plugs or maybe on the frame behind radiator?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/107856943/HIDMess.jpg)

The screwdriver isn't actually part of the HID lighting package- it's just there for scale.

The bulb is in its shipping protector on the lower left.  Above it and to the left is the ignitor.  Directly above the bulb is the connector that plugs into the bike's lighting circuit.  Top right is the CanBus corrector, and the blue ballast is next to the screwdriver.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 16, 2015, 12:11:50 AM
There is enough length in the lines so that basically all the brick-like objects went behind the left-side fairing.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 20, 2015, 01:15:06 AM
*Originally Posted by BillB [+]
Here are some pictures hopefully to eliminate any future confusion.

On the bike, clutch-side, there are two connectors.  The connector closest to the forks is the one to use.  It has three wires with a brown wire (ground) and a red wire (+12V), the middle purple wire is not used.  The other connector has blue wires with colored stripes.

thank you so much, BillB for the pictures and description of each wire.
you post was essential to my plan for an auxillary light install.


I have a few questions

In my first picture, does anyone know what "c" is for and how much power it provides?

Is the plug behind the horn as seen in my second picture the Right hand side OA connector? If not, does anyone have any pictures of the right hand side OA connector?

Thanks a million. You guys are awesome.



Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 27, 2015, 02:23:59 AM
Also, has anyone on the forum run a relay harness from the battery to power lights?
trying to find a DIY thread but unable.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 27, 2015, 02:43:02 AM
I did for a friend. I ran a switched power wire all the way from the high beam park light back to the battery area for the switched connection to the relay, obviously +ve and -ve connections (on the relay) directly from the battery, and then the output from the relay and a ground wire from the battery to the front to power the low beam HID. there is a gap under the seat on the right hand side next to the ABS unit where a relay will fit nicely.

use this to power you HID(or LED) and leave the stock low beam connector disconnected inside the housing.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 27, 2015, 03:21:46 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I did for a friend. I ran a switched power wire all the way from the high beam park light back to the battery area for the switched connection to the relay, obviously +ve and -ve connections (on the relay) directly from the battery, and then the output from the relay and a ground wire from the battery to the front to power the low beam HID. there is a gap under the seat on the right hand side next to the ABS unit where a relay will fit nicely.

use this to power you HID(or LED) and leave the stock low beam connector disconnected inside the housing.

thanks for the tip!
did you need to remove the gas tank for the install?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 27, 2015, 11:38:53 AM
No, you can wiggle the wires through and under the tank.

I fitted HIDs and mounted the ballast and ignitor behind the right side radiator panels. I purchased HID extension leads to make it a little easier:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HR7UJGE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HR7UJGE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY8VP2K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY8VP2K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 27, 2015, 03:54:15 PM
@ simonUK, Miles, you guys make this forum amazing.

Thank you all for this informative thread.

So I ended up installing an ebay digital ballast HID on the low beam (hooked to the OEM harness) with a 528T delay timer to prevent current draw when the engine is cranking.

Despite this, the stock 7.5A fuse blew. And I put a 10A in finding out that this may over load the system so now I am planning on installing a relay harness to draw power directly from the battery.

Since i havent done this yet, i wanted to test out how the high beam is alone and suddenly both my running lights (tiny parking lights) went off and I get a LAMPF! error. I hope its just a bad connection as opposed to my low heam HID causing problems.

GAHHHH!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 27, 2015, 04:24:17 PM
As far as I know the LAMPF! error is only caused by the 2 park lights, no error is given if the Lo or Hi beams go out (not sure why they would do this?). The 2 parking lights should be on irrespective of the Lo and Hi beams. Has a fuse blown??

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 29, 2015, 01:17:55 AM

as a follow up, my LAMPF was caused by my LED on the high beam side melting from the halogen bulb...Fun Times.

on the upshot, my low beams are finally HID via a relay to the battery + a Delay timer.

next step, OA plug to high beams so they stay on at startup

does the OA plug shut off once ignition is off?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 29, 2015, 02:31:46 AM
You want your high beams on all the time?   
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 29, 2015, 12:01:50 PM
Unfortunately, where i live cagers dont give a damn or pay attention to motorcyclists anyways so flashing them is useless. :157:

yeah i have no problems with loosing the passing light function. I'd rather have more light more of the time. so i hope the oa plug behaves in a way that allows the high beam to turn on whenever the bike is on.

miles, do you know how the OA plug behaves?

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 29, 2015, 12:33:07 PM
That is how it would work. You'd also lose the possibility of ever shutting the high beam off while the motor is running.

Why not simply flip the switch and turn the high beam on, and just keep it that way?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 29, 2015, 12:57:07 PM
 :0461: just flip the switch and it will stay on as long as the engine is running!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on October 29, 2015, 03:03:46 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
:0461: just flip the switch and it will stay on as long as the engine is running!

+1

Comment regarding cagers...  "I couldn't figure out why the ball kept getting bigger and bigger, and then it hit me!" 

The point being, the most difficult object to see is the one coming directly at you.  Give the cagers a waggle and paint them with your headlights until you are certain you have been seen.  Trust no one, even other motorcycles!

Ride safe, right on!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 29, 2015, 03:33:50 PM
are you guys referring to installing a seperate switch? or using the stock one?

If i flip the high beam switch, my low beams go off since my Low beam HID relay is triggered from the stock harness and pulls power from the battery.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 29, 2015, 03:40:20 PM
*Originally Posted by eeeccc [+]
are you guys referring to installing a seperate switch? or using the stock one?

If i flip the high beam switch, my low beams go off since my Low beam HID relay is triggered from the stock harness and pulls power from the battery.


I think you might benefit from reading through the first post in this thread, and then perhaps the next couple of pages.  Curing that problem is exactly wha this thread is all about.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 29, 2015, 03:49:51 PM
 :0461:

Why re-invent the wheel when the solution is detailed in this thread?? All you need to change is where your switched source comes for the low beam relay, instead of using OEM low beam power, use one of the park lights, or a switched source from the license plate light, that way you only have to change 1 wire!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on October 29, 2015, 04:17:36 PM
will do! going to see how this goes for a bit.

when I need to do some changes to the headlights [ie) install a second HID kit for my highbeams], ill switch the wiring around so the low beams are triggered by something else (NOT the stock low beam harness) to avoid the low beam shutoff, just as you described, Miles.

Thanks!

EDIT: happy with my results!
3000K low beams
white korean halogen 9005 highs wired to OA plug.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on November 05, 2015, 10:37:31 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
:0461:

Why re-invent the wheel when the solution is detailed in this thread?? All you need to change is where your switched source comes for the low beam relay, instead of using OEM low beam power, use one of the park lights, or a switched source from the license plate light, that way you only have to change 1 wire!!

OK, where is the low beam relay and which wire is the trigger wire?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on November 05, 2015, 11:51:20 PM
*Originally Posted by Dr. D [+]
OK, where is the low beam relay and which wire is the trigger wire?

Read post #190. The relay is at any automotive store, and I personally drew my switched source from the high beam park light.

This entire thread is about fixing the Low beam to be on all the time, the simple solution is to, as described in this thread, install a 12v relay drawing poser directly from the battery and triggered by a switched power source, the output from the relay will power the low beam thus rendering the OEM low beam connector redundant.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on November 06, 2015, 02:48:20 PM
Miles, I apologize if you already mentioned this but I didn't want to dig through all 21 pages of the post again. What brand/model driving lights are you using (the ones on the handlebars)?

For everyone that is on this forum because of their terrible headlights, after many back and forth emails and phone calls with BMW NA I was finally able to convince them that my dealer is not helpful and does not know about the proper operation of the headlights. I got a case number started and have the direct contact info for a woman that is supposed to answer all my questions and work with me to provide a solution to the poor lighting from the factory. If any of you are interested I'm sure the more phone calls and emails they receive the more likely they are to finally address the headlights on this bike. The contact info is in the screenshot attached. If I get anywhere with them I will let you know.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on November 06, 2015, 03:11:17 PM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
Miles, I apologize if you already mentioned this but I didn't want to dig through all 21 pages of the post again. What brand/model driving lights are you using (the ones on the handlebars)?

For everyone that is on this forum because of their terrible headlights, after many back and forth emails and phone calls with BMW NA I was finally able to convince them that my dealer is not helpful and does not know about the proper operation of the headlights. I got a case number started and have the direct contact info for a woman that is supposed to answer all my questions and work with me to provide a solution to the poor lighting from the factory. If any of you are interested I'm sure the more phone calls and emails they receive the more likely they are to finally address the headlights on this bike. The contact info is in the screenshot attached. If I get anywhere with them I will let you know.

Hey man,
Happen to be on the forum when you posted. The info youre looking for: brand of MIles' LEDs, type of HID kit is right on the first page of the thread....with pictures to boot.
At least check a few pages maybe? lol.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on November 06, 2015, 04:05:41 PM
I read it first, and just re-read it. It has the info the H7 and the 9005 HID. I'm looking for the lights on the bars. I do not see a link or brand for that.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on November 06, 2015, 04:17:16 PM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
I read it first, and just re-read it. It has the info the H7 and the 9005 HID. I'm looking for the lights on the bars. I do not see a link or brand for that.

I misunderstood you thought you were looking for the headlights themselves. My apologies.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on November 06, 2015, 04:19:01 PM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
Miles, I apologize if you already mentioned this but I didn't want to dig through all 21 pages of the post again. What brand/model driving lights are you using (the ones on the handlebars)?

For everyone that is on this forum because of their terrible headlights, after many back and forth emails and phone calls with BMW NA I was finally able to convince them that my dealer is not helpful and does not know about the proper operation of the headlights. I got a case number started and have the direct contact info for a woman that is supposed to answer all my questions and work with me to provide a solution to the poor lighting from the factory. If any of you are interested I'm sure the more phone calls and emails they receive the more likely they are to finally address the headlights on this bike. The contact info is in the screenshot attached. If I get anywhere with them I will let you know.

I also got hold of BMW customer support and got absolutely nowhere, I asked them if they could forward this issue to the Mothership and was told that they had no way of contacting Germany. I guess I was just fobbed off. I am glad at least you have a case number, and hopefully Germany will come back with an answer, although as this issue only affects our NA bikes I think that it is more region specific and not something that BMW will be prepared to do something about. I hope I am wrong!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on November 06, 2015, 06:12:02 PM
I don't have high hopes either. But if they want to swap the relay or throw some money towards a set of auxiliary lights I would be happy. Anyone running the PIAA LP530 or LP270 setups on their bikes?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on November 06, 2015, 06:23:35 PM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
I don't have high hopes either. But if they want to swap the relay or throw some money towards a set of auxiliary lights I would be happy. Anyone running the PIAA LP530 or LP270 setups on their bikes?

Good luck with that! but keep us informed anyway(I forgot to add that customer service actually phoned me back in reply to my enquiry!!)
 I'd be happy if they would just change the line of code so they work like the European S1000R.

I have a set of Denali DM1 Micro mounted on the top of the black plastic radiator  covers. I also have a friend who has Clearwater Darla's mounted on the lower forks, They are a bright as feck, but personally I do not like the look of lights mounted on the lower forks on this type of bike, and the Darla's are $650, that includes the mounts, wiring harnesses, controller (there is a dimmer and they are also connected to the high beam switch so they go full power when you hit the hi's).
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on November 06, 2015, 06:43:27 PM
I'm not a fan of how they look either. But I need more light.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on November 06, 2015, 10:26:19 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Read post #190. The relay is at any automotive store, and I personally drew my switched source from the high beam park light.

This entire thread is about fixing the Low beam to be on all the time, the simple solution is to, as described in this thread, install a 12v relay drawing poser directly from the battery and triggered by a switched power source, the output from the relay will power the low beam thus rendering the OEM low beam connector redundant.

Yeah, I know.  I misread your post.  It sounded to me like you meant go to the stock control point for the low beam power and switch it to another trigger, like the running lights.  That would be slick.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on November 17, 2015, 10:22:53 PM
hello kind folks.

ever since my HID install, ive been getting a service notice for next year (2016) everytime i turn my bike on. I think this was caused by disconnecting battery from the bike when I was wiring my relay harness. It runs fine and is more of a nuisance than anything, but would preferably want it removed.

Is this happening to anyone else? Wondering if there is a fix that does not involve the dealer/GS911 tool.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on November 17, 2015, 11:07:28 PM
Disconnecting the battery should not trigger any service notices. The S1000R regularly alerts about upcoming service intervals, so it might just be that you're nearing the next scheduled service.

Mine, for example, has been counting down every time I start it recently. As of Saturday it told me I have 200 miles to go to my next service.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: DRoss on November 17, 2015, 11:24:24 PM
I don't mind the reminder but once you hit that last 200 miles it changes to a constant reminder "service engine" at the top and you lose the engine temp readout.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on November 18, 2015, 12:07:19 AM
does your service reminder blank out the rest of your display? cuz mine does. it shows up immediately at ignition on and stays there for about 5 seconds then goes away completely.

i am at 6600 km. completed first service at 1000 km ish. not due until 10000 kms, but its telling me that "service is due 2016". whats up with that?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on November 18, 2015, 12:13:04 AM
EEECCC, it's every 10000kms or 1 year whichever come first
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on November 19, 2015, 12:12:17 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Disconnecting the battery should not trigger any service notices. The S1000R regularly alerts about upcoming service intervals, so it might just be that you're nearing the next scheduled service.

Mine, for example, has been counting down every time I start it recently. As of Saturday it told me I have 200 miles to go to my next service.

Actually, if the battery is disconnected long enough, the bike will start displaying the 'service may 2016' (well, that is what mine now shows).  Either GS911 or into the dealership.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on November 19, 2015, 06:46:05 PM
Did this mod this weekend. Overall I'm very happy I went through with it.

For me, the #2 and #3 pins were the ones I had to use on the BMW aux connector. I almost gave up when I couldn't get it to work with the #1 and 2 as the directions posted here had said.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on November 19, 2015, 10:49:29 PM
I don't know why the pin choice varies by bike. That part has me baffled. Some have had success using the #1 and #2 combo, others with the #2 and #3.

It's really odd.


But I'm glad you got it sorted.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on November 20, 2015, 05:00:20 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
I don't know why the pin choice varies by bike. That part has me baffled. Some have had success using the #1 and #2 combo, others with the #2 and #3.

It's really odd.


But I'm glad you got it sorted.

I think it depends on whether you are using the right side or left side Canbus connector. They are wired differently to each other.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on November 26, 2015, 09:20:36 PM
I met a guy today at the RockStore in Malibu, California…he is an employee of BMW’s Oxnard operations center…as I understand it, this is not a dealership…it is a unit of the mothership, BMW AG.  He rode up on a S1000XR and parked next to my S1000R, we started talking and I found out he was riding a company-owned S1000XR and was a BMW engineer.

I let him know about our issue with the high beam.  We compared the high beams on the S1000XR and S1000R and he seemed to get the message.  I told him that, as I understand it, the non-US S1000Rs (i.e., Canadian, Australian and European) don’t switch off the low beam when the high beam is switched on.  This guy seemed somewhat intrigued, and said he would check it out, so we have that to look forward to.  BTW, he is an electrical engineer, and said if it’s really an issue, that it could be fixed by reflashing the main ECU.  Now, this was only a five minute conversation, so we can’t hold the guy to anything, but maybe BMW will finally come around and address this problem.  I let him know that the joke among US S1000R owners is that the bike is not really meant to be ridden at night.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: eeeccc on November 27, 2015, 12:54:07 AM
keep us posted, pacpal1
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Slappy on November 27, 2015, 10:16:50 AM
*Originally Posted by pacpal1 [+]
...as I understand it, the non-US S1000Rs (i.e., Canadian, Australian and European) don’t switch off the low beam when the high beam is switched on...

FYI The Canadian version has the same problem. At least, mine does!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on November 27, 2015, 12:01:40 PM
*Originally Posted by Slappy [+]
FYI The Canadian version has the same problem. At least, mine does!

Mine too. It's all of north america...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on December 14, 2015, 01:20:05 AM
Update to my last post.  I saw my BMW contact again and asked him about the headlight issue.  This is not a guy I know so well, but it seems he frequents the same motorcycle riding areas as me, so I expect to see him every so often, but I have not pressed him so hard that I have asked for his contact information.  He said he sent an email (I suppose to an engineering department in Germany) inquiring about it, and hasn't yet heard back...mentioned something about the slow season (I suppose, at this time of year, there is some slow response time to these type of inquiries).  So, at least it seems some effort has been made within BMW to inquire about the problem.  In addition, while we might not get a fix out of it, I hope at least to be able to someday learn from him why North American S1000R headlights work differently than other regions of the world.  Does anyone else have any information/update on how BMW has responded to this issue?  Surely I am not the only one who has registered dissatisfaction with the S1000R high beam.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on December 14, 2015, 02:13:58 AM
*Originally Posted by pacpal1 [+]
Surely I am not the only one who has registered dissatisfaction with the S1000R high beam.

Several other members have contacted BMW customer service as documented in this thread, see posts 206 to 213. Personally I have come to the conclusion that as far as technical issues go customer service is a complete waste of time, but I do not know wher to go from there!!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jjsc6 on December 14, 2015, 01:14:42 PM
*Originally Posted by pacpal1 [+]
Update to my last post.  I saw my BMW contact again and asked him about the headlight issue.  This is not a guy I know so well, but it seems he frequents the same motorcycle riding areas as me, so I expect to see him every so often, but I have not pressed him so hard that I have asked for his contact information.  He said he sent an email (I suppose to an engineering department in Germany) inquiring about it, and hasn't yet heard back...mentioned something about the slow season (I suppose, at this time of year, there is some slow response time to these type of inquiries).  So, at least it seems some effort has been made within BMW to inquire about the problem.  In addition, while we might not get a fix out of it, I hope at least to be able to someday learn from him why North American S1000R headlights work differently than other regions of the world.  Does anyone else have any information/update on how BMW has responded to this issue?  Surely I am not the only one who has registered dissatisfaction with the S1000R high beam.

Most lighting issues in the US come down to the fact that the US has always believed in dictating lighting by addressing the lighting design rather than the results, and the US has always been painfully slow the adapt to new technology.  I'm willing on betting that will be his answer, but I hope I'm wrong. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on January 15, 2016, 03:52:33 AM
I think I've found my solution to this silliness:  Dump the S and buy a Kawasaki Z1000. 

I refuse to "rig solutions" on a $15K motorcycle. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on January 15, 2016, 04:14:22 AM
(http://cdn.makeagif.com/media/8-25-2014/fWx327.gif)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on January 16, 2016, 03:33:52 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Here are the step by step instructions:

It's actually really straightforward. The problem isn't the high beam- it's that the low beam shuts off. The solution is to wire it so the low beam stays on full time when the bike is running.

The way to do this is to get the auxiliary outlet connector from your dealer, and an H11 headlight socket from Pep Boys (or Kragen or wherever else).

Remove the right side fairing, tank cover and right side headlight shroud (the painted piece with the turn signal sticking out. You don't have to remove the signal itself, but when you pull the shroud side panel you'll need to unplug the signal wire).

The auxiliary plug is right there in plain sight under the side fairing.  Make sure the connector the dealer gave you works.  It might not. If it does, plug it in and leave it there.

Turn the bars to the left so you can access the back side of the right headlight. There's a round plastic cover hiding the bulb. Remove this and pull the bulb. This wil be an incredible pain in the neck. When you get it out, unplug the bulb from the wiring harness and plug the bulb into the socket you bought. If it fits well, go ahead and reinstall the bulb and cover piece, leaving the wire ends from the new socket out where you can reach them.

Now connect the two, the auxiliary connector and the new bulb socket.  Route the wiring up under the tank cover and out following along with the other things that go out the front part of the cover.  Use tiny zip ties to keep everything organized and neat.

Check your work. Turn on the bike and make sure the low beam actually works. If it does, button everything up and pat yourself on the back.
If it doesn't, you have done something wrong somewhere- probably a bad connection. Check everything and test again until it does work.

Those wires to that connector sure are small.  Should they be used for a headlight?

Has ANYONE thought of using the wiring directly from the switch?  There is a mode where both the beams are one (momentary mode).  I have not investigated the switch, but I'm sure it could be done.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on January 16, 2016, 04:01:13 AM
The high beam doesn't stay on when you pull the switch. They are both only on for a couple of seconds before the low turns off.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on January 16, 2016, 04:06:01 AM
*Originally Posted by waktasz [+]
The high beam doesn't stay on when you pull the switch. They are both only on for a couple of seconds before the low turns off.

Are you talking about the "FLASH" or "HIGH BEAM" mode?  I'm talking about the former.  (OK, let me go check!)

BTW...I checked out the 2015 Kawasaki Z1000 and it has FOUR headlights that stay on...constantly!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on January 16, 2016, 05:19:59 AM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
Those wires to that connector sure are small.  Should they be used for a headlight?

Regarding the connector,  Sierra BMW says, "...anything with a low draw (under 10 watts).",  bulbs are typically 55W or greater.

http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/product_info.php/bmw-can-bus-gpsgadget-power-pigtail-electrical-83300413585-p-1378 (http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/product_info.php/bmw-can-bus-gpsgadget-power-pigtail-electrical-83300413585-p-1378)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 16, 2016, 07:25:48 AM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
Those wires to that connector sure are small.  Should they be used for a headlight?

Sure. It's no problem.

*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
Has ANYONE thought of using the wiring directly from the switch? 

Yes.

*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
There is a mode where both the beams are one (momentary mode).  I have not investigated the switch, but I'm sure it could be done.

Nope. Can't be done. The reason is that the shutoff action isn't in the switch-it's programmed into the ECU.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 18, 2016, 10:59:32 AM
So a few posts above are step by step instructions (exactly what I'm looking for to print out and take to BMW) are they good for led swap or hid swap?

I'm going to look into the led lights swap through the dealership (not sure whose parts they use but are advertised as "original BMW equipment" and would also like to have them cure the low beam shutoff while they are in there.

So I am looking for easiest / most reliable way of doing so with led bulbs in hi/ low.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on January 18, 2016, 01:33:56 PM
I have an Opt7 LED for both lights. The low is running off the canbus port as described in this thread. Both are plug and play and work great in the stock projectors. Other people have not has such good luck with HIDs in the stock locations.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 18, 2016, 01:36:57 PM
I have 35w HID in both locations and they both work great. I have my low beam running through a relay(PDM60) from the battery.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 18, 2016, 06:05:08 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Easy. Just run a line from the Canbus socket to a new H7 light socket and plug the bulb into the new socket.

So will this work if swapping to led in both hi and low beams?

I'm sorry, I don't really know anything about lights
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 18, 2016, 06:06:24 PM
*Originally Posted by waktasz [+]
I have an Opt7 LED for both lights. The low is running off the canbus port as described in this thread. Both are plug and play and work great in the stock projectors. Other people have not has such good luck with HIDs in the stock locations.

Like I just bumped? I just want to be clear when I tell the dealership what to do. Lighting is NOT my specialty lol
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on January 18, 2016, 06:14:41 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I have 35w HID in both locations and they both work great. I have my low beam running through a relay(PDM60) from the battery.

may i inquire, SimonUK, as to the location of the ballasts...and did you use extensions?

wyman
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 18, 2016, 06:56:48 PM
*Originally Posted by wymanwinn [+]
may i inquire, SimonUK, as to the location of the ballasts...and did you use extensions?
wyman

I did use extensions and the ballasts/ignitors are behind the Radiator side panels. I have R&G engine sliders, the ballasts are velcro'd the the mounts. If you don't have R&G sliders you can velcro them directly on the back of the colored panels.

I will post some pics tonight when I get home.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on January 18, 2016, 08:23:33 PM
*Originally Posted by Woody146 [+]
So will this work if swapping to led in both hi and low beams?

I'm sorry, I don't really know anything about lights

I don't really know anything either. I followed this thread to do the low beam. I plugged in the additional connector I bought into the plug under the left fairing panel and wired it to a plug for the low beam then hooked it to the Opt7 LED.

The high beam is drop in, plug and play.

Both LED units have a small, thin, electronics box that had to be zip tied out of the way.  It's about 1"x2"x 1/4". Very easy to find a spot for it.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 18, 2016, 11:07:19 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I will post some pics tonight when I get home.

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/HID-Ballast-Right-Side.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/HID-Ballast-Left-Side.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/HID-Ballast-Left-Side-2.jpg)

Like I said, I have them velcro'd to the R&G plates, but without these there they can be velcro'd (3M Dual Lock) to the inside of the fairing panels. I have circled the ballast and ignitors (I painted them black).

If anyone is interested I have Word Doc with directions and instructions for fitting both high and low beam HIDs (but I am sure they could be used for LED installation as well. If you want a copy, pm me your e-mails address.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 22, 2016, 02:30:41 AM
I had this done today! BMW did for me.  They did h7 through canbus like described here and it works great! I read the first post stating you get the code and I was told this today as well.  If in high position...no problem, once I flick to low it will throw an error (so I'm told..I ride high beam all the time..idc about blinding people..I DEMAND to be seen lol) and was told that if I get an h7 canbus resistor..there would be no error.  They had one in stock but was part of a 140$ race something kit, so I declined buying that. I have 2 on the way from Amazon for 11$ lol.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on January 22, 2016, 02:53:22 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
The regulation isn't about high/low per se, but left/right.  If the R had the lights stacked vertically both could be on at the same time.

Well, now that's the first reasoning I've read regarding why the low beam shuts off.  So, if true, that's it...there is no way to get BMW to address the problem, as it is not a mistake.  BTW, the BMW AG technician I wrote about a couple months ago apparently never received any response regarding his inquiry to Germany on this subject.  As I wrote previously, he said he sent a message to an engineering department, as I understand it.  I saw him at the famous Rock Store in Malibu, California very recently, flashed my brights, pointed to them and shrugged my shoulders...he nodded his head "no", implying he never heard back.  So, if your post stating that the US DOT restriction relates to the side-by-side positioning of the low and high beam, we are likely out of luck...BMW will never address this issue.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 22, 2016, 02:57:16 AM
As far as I know there are no errors on the low and high beams (i do not get any and my low is running from a PDM60), you will get a LAMPF if the park lights are out, but there is an option in the menu to turn this warning  off.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 22, 2016, 03:00:02 AM
*Originally Posted by pacpal1 [+]
Well, now that's the first reasoning I've read regarding why the low beam shuts off.  So, if true, that's it...there is no way to get BMW to address the problem, as it is not a mistake.  BTW, the BMW AG technician I wrote about a couple months ago apparently never received any response regarding his inquiry to Germany on this subject.  As I wrote previously, he said he sent a message to an engineering department, as I understand it.  I saw him at the famous Rock Store in Malibu, California very recently, flashed my brights, pointed to them and shrugged my shoulders...he nodded his head "no", implying he never heard back.  So, if your post stating that the US DOT restriction relates to the side-by-side positioning of the low and high beam, we are likely out of luck...BMW will never address this issue.

It is something to do with the US/NA version of the bike as the European bikes the low beam stays on when the high is turned on. I doubt that this is some thing that BMW would decide to do of their own accord (but could be completely wrong on that!!!).
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 22, 2016, 05:01:47 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
As far as I know there are no errors on the low and high beams (i do not get any and my low is running from a PDM60), you will get a LAMPF if the park lights are out, but there is an option in the menu to turn this warning  off.

It may be the lampf..I wasn't too clear. Was told the pdm60 was overkill unless I wanted to hook up some other electronics (which I don't)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 22, 2016, 05:15:28 AM
 
*Originally Posted by Woody146 [+]
Was told the pdm60 was overkill unless I wanted to hook up some other electronics


Absolutely true.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 22, 2016, 12:19:55 PM
*Originally Posted by Woody146 [+]
It may be the lampf..I wasn't too clear. Was told the pdm60 was overkill unless I wanted to hook up some other electronics (which I don't)

As miles says, this is completely true. My point with the PDM was that I was bypassing the stock low beam connection completely and  that you should not have a LAMPF! error as this only occurs with a park bulb or indicator bulb out.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 22, 2016, 03:00:51 PM
I see

yea, I think mine is done via h7 into the canbus system which is the issue. Need the resistor to bypass or something..idk. I trust the service guys.   
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 23, 2016, 04:23:49 AM
A reason why....maybe?



S6.1.3.5   Headlamp beam mounting.

S6.1.3.5.1   Vertical headlamp arrangement.

S6.1.3.5.1.1   Where multiple headlamps with single light sources are installed in a vertical orientation the lower beam must be provided by the uppermost headlamp.

S6.1.3.5.1.2   Where headlamps with two vertically oriented light sources are installed the lower beam must be provided by the uppermost light source or by all light sources.

S6.1.3.5.2   Horizontal headlamp arrangement.

S6.1.3.5.2.1   Where multiple headlamps with single light sources are installed in a horizontal orientation the lower beam must be provided by the most outboard headlamp.

S6.1.3.5.2.2   Where headlamps with two horizontally oriented light sources are installed the lower beam must be provided by the outboard light source or by all light sources.

S6.1.3.6   Auxiliary lamps mounted near identification lamps. Each auxiliary lamp must be located at least twice the distance from any required identification lamp as the distance between two adjacent required identification lamps.

S6.1.4   Mounting height. The mounting height of each lamp and reflective device must be measured from the center of the item, as mounted on the vehicle at curb weight, to the road surface.

S6.1.4.1   High-mounted stop lamps.

S6.1.4.1.1   A high-mounted stop lamp mounted below the rear window must have no lens portion lower than 153 mm [6 in] below the lower edge of the rear glazing on convertibles, or 77 mm [3 in] on other passenger cars.

S6.1.5   Activation. Each lamp must be activated as specified, in the combinations specified, and in response to the inputs specified in Table I and Table II.

S6.1.5.1   Hazard warning signal. In all passenger cars, multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks, and buses, the activation of the vehicular hazard warning signal operating unit must cause to flash simultaneously sufficient turn signal lamps to meet, as a minimum, the turn signal photometric requirements of this standard.

S6.1.5.2   Simultaneous beam activation.

S6.1.5.2.1   On any vehicle to which this standard applies where the headlighting system is designed to conform to the photometric requirements of UB1 of Table XVIII and LB1M or LB1V of Table XIX-a, the lamps marked “L” or “LF” may remain permanently activated when the lamps marked “U” or “UF” are activated.

S6.1.5.2.2   On any vehicle to which this standard applies where an integral beam headlighting system is designed to conform to the photometric requirements of UB6 of Table XVIII and LB5M of Table XIX-b or LB4V of Table XIX-c, the lower beam headlamps must remain permanently activated when the upper beam headlamps are activated.

S6.1.5.2.3   On any vehicle to which this section applies where the headlighting system is designed to conform to the photometric requirements of UB2 of Table XVIII and LB2M or LB2V of Table XIX-a, a lower beam light source may remain permanently activated when an upper beam light source is activated if the lower beam light source contributes to the upper beam photometric compliance of the headlighting system.

Which is from this

http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?node=se49.6.571_1108 (http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?node=se49.6.571_1108)

Which is called FMVSS 108 in North America and CMVSS 108 in Canada.   Which are both similar.


Much much further down the page

Mounting height   Device activation
All Motorcycles
Lower Beam Headlamps   White, of a headlighting system listed in S10.17   On the front, at the same height, symmetrically about the vertical centerline, as far apart as practicable. See additional requirements in S10.17.1.1, S10.17.1.2, and S10.17.1.3   Not less than 22 inches (55.9 cm) nor more than 54 inches (137.2 cm)   The wiring harness or connector assembly of each headlighting system must be designed so that only those light sources intended for meeting lower beam photometrics are energized when the beam selector switch is in the lower beam position, and that only those light sources intended for meeting upper beam photometrics are energized when the beam selector switch is in the upper beam position, except for certain systems listed in Table II.
Upper Beam Headlamps   White, of a headlighting system listed in S10.17   On the front, at the same height, symmetrically about the vertical centerline, as far apart as practicable. See additional requirements in S10.17.1.1, S10.17.1.2, and S10.17.1.3   Not less than 22 inches (55.9 cm) nor more than 54 inches (137.2 cm)   Steady burning, except that may be flashed for signaling purposes.
               The upper beam or the lower beam, but not both, may be wired to modulate from a higher intensity to a lower intensity in accordance with S10.17.5
Turn Signal Lamps   2 Amber. None required on a motor driven cycle whose speed attainable in 1 mile is 30 mph or less   At or near the front, at the same height, symmetrically about the vertical centerline, and having a minimum horizontal separation distance (centerline of lamps) of 16 inches. Minimum edge to edge separation distance between a turn signal lamp and headlamp is 4 inches   

It's In a nice chart in the link
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 23, 2016, 04:36:00 AM
  :0461: was posted in this thread

https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,1712.70.html (https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,1712.70.html)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 23, 2016, 03:58:22 PM
Oo very nice! So there was an answer in all those pages!

I started looking after I read the posts from the guy that rides mullholland
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 23, 2016, 04:12:07 PM
*Originally Posted by Woody146 [+]
Oo very nice! So there was an answer in all those pages!

I started looking after I read the posts from the guy that rides mullholland

I am still not convinced there is an empirical answer in there, it really does not address the issue in simple man's terms (well simple enough for me to understand anyway). What I have surmised though is that this is not directly a BMW caused issue, so really they are not going to 'fix' it. Hence why many of us have gone an alternate route.  :028: :028:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on January 23, 2016, 06:00:30 PM
I agree.  When this issue first popped up, I waded through the regulation and couldn't find anything definitive that would preclude simultaneous operation, but then my eyes glazed over after the first dozen paragraphs.  The only thing I could figure was that it had to do with maybe the maximum allowable power per filament based on the spec or that the low beam pushed the high beam photometrics above a maximum luminosity.   :027:

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 24, 2016, 02:35:44 AM
I thought it was that the two headlights are too close together. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on January 24, 2016, 03:07:40 AM
I didn't see anything in there about minimum distance, only maximum:

"S10.17.1.3.2   If the headlamps are horizontally disposed about the vertical centerline, the distance between the closest edges of their effective projected luminous lens areas must not be greater than 200 mm."

And, it's the same for 1 on, or 2 on.

I do wonder if it has to do with aiming?  A dual filament light has to be aimed according to the low beam.  BMW might prefer to aim the high beam differently.   :027:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on January 24, 2016, 03:25:33 AM
Did you guys realize that the RR doesn't shut have that shut off.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 24, 2016, 03:51:32 AM
Neither does the XR, R1200RS, or in fact any other bike that I know of!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on January 24, 2016, 10:35:02 AM
Yeah, and all those bike have different housings and fairings that would affect aiming and photometry characteristics.

My guess is that when BMW had the S1000R lights tested for DOT approval, some government bureaucrat* at the testing facility found a .01% deviation beyond some regulation and failed the lights.  Then, rather than completely redesign them, BMW probably figured out the easiest way to change things to pass, and voila!   :008:

* No offense to any government bureaucrats out there.     
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 24, 2016, 05:01:00 PM
I'm  Guessing it has to do with the projector bulb in the high beam using the max lumens...the rr and xr DO NOT have those type of bulbs.  In fact, my 2015 ram 1500 has projector lows and regular highs (opposite of our bikes) and the lows and highs are not on together which sometimes bothers me.  Even when pulling the lever back to activate high and low beams, the lows turn off after a bit.

My eyes started to glaze over as well. I scrolled to the bottom and it had everything in a nice chart that was specific to motorcycles and one specific to cars.

Regardless...I don't think BMW will come up with a fix as they don't see it as an "issue". Just conforming to NA federal regulations.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 24, 2016, 05:05:58 PM
 :0461: with you Woody. Not trying to stand up for the Mothership, but I believe their hands are tied (barring a complete redesign)! We must not forget that the euro models  work as 'we' would want ours to, with the low beam staying on when the high is triggered, so it can be done.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 24, 2016, 05:12:41 PM
I agree..they did what they could to get the bike released at the same time around the world

And after reading some of the codes on lights, USA seems to always be behind in that part of technology.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 24, 2016, 05:49:29 PM
Well, we have a cheap and easy fix.  It's a tiny bit annoying, but if that's the worst complaint then the bike is closer to perfect than most.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 24, 2016, 06:16:01 PM
 Miles, :821: :063: :821:, no truer words said.  :028: :028: :028:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 25, 2016, 03:54:28 PM
Agreed! Only other gripe I have is...WHERE DOES THE COOLANT GO!? Lol
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 26, 2016, 09:55:39 PM
Update : no resistor needed! No lampf on low beam..probabaly only get that with led or hid..?  Glad I went for the 10$ shipped ones from Amazon instead of the 140$ one from BMW that was part of a race something kit!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 26, 2016, 10:38:28 PM
35w HID installed on both low and high beam, no resistors required, no LAMPF! error.

Likewise, Rizoma LED indicators fitted front and rear, no resistors fitted. No LAMPF! error and flash rate is normal.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Woody146 on January 27, 2016, 12:39:18 AM
 :821:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 27, 2016, 01:28:58 AM
I've never gotten a LAMPF! error with the LED I installed.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on January 27, 2016, 09:31:55 PM
It might sound very dumb but would it work to connect the high beam wire to the low beam wire with a diode in line?

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 29, 2016, 09:47:49 PM
Why would you want to do that?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on January 29, 2016, 10:12:33 PM
Well low beam powered normally when high beam are off and low beam still powered when high beam are on.

Just an alternative power source with a diode facing the right way so you have a one way wire.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on January 29, 2016, 11:33:46 PM
The main problem would be:
-is the high beam circuit capable of handling both low and high beam?
-would we get an error?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 30, 2016, 12:49:22 AM
*Originally Posted by jucam [+]
Well low beam powered normally when high beam are off and low beam still powered when high beam are on.

Just an alternative power source with a diode facing the right way so you have a one way wire.


Ah, I see.  It might work- go ahead and give it a try and report back.  The more options the better!

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on January 30, 2016, 01:11:26 AM
Don't do it.  High beam fuse is only 7.5A.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jucam on January 30, 2016, 01:30:23 AM
*Originally Posted by BillB [+]
Don't do it.  High beam fuse is only 7.5A.

Do we know how much the low and high beam are peaking at?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on January 30, 2016, 02:09:01 AM
*Originally Posted by jucam [+]
Do we know how much the low and high beam are peaking at?

twp 55watt H7 bulbs are 110 watts divided by 12 volts equal 9.16 amps....prolly too much for the OEM wiring....
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: BillB on January 30, 2016, 02:22:00 AM
Stock bulbs are H7, 55W, so 4.5A each.  Even if it could support the draw, I still wouldn't do it this way.  But, if I had to, I'd use two Schottky's to isolate the low beam and make sure it didn't interfere with the filament check current.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on January 30, 2016, 11:58:11 PM
just completed the Miles low beam "always on" modification and all went according to his detailed instructions....it was a bit tedious due to me completely removing the headlight assy and tucking the OEM H7 connector into the housing was fruitless...ended up removing the connectors, shrink tubing them and then tucking them away....

installation was straight forward and pretty easy....BUT what freaking first year engineering student designed the parking light location on the low beam.....!!!! what a giant PITA to get to it if needed (installed 6000k leds in both)....in fact ALL the bulbs are a GIANT PITA to change, almost as bad as on my 13 RT....!!!

while doing the job i also wired my iRadar and new Steel-Mate tp-90 TPMS to the bike...all connected to the PDM60

no LAMPF codes.....

looking forward to a night or very early morning ride to "test" the new system...
 
thanks Miles for the encouragement AND outstanding instructions...:)

wyman
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 31, 2016, 01:20:47 AM
Changing the high beam bulb isn't too bad...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 11, 2016, 03:42:48 AM
I bought the PDM60 to augment my low beam and it functions as advertised.  However, finding a home for the PDM60 is a PITA as well as wiring to the bulb.  I'm about ready to put it back stock and just sell the damn thing.  It's just too weird rewiring what should be the perfect bike.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 11, 2016, 03:49:00 AM
My PDM-60 sits under the pillion seat at the forward edge of the space.  It really doesn't rob any room from anything else, as nothing else could fit there anyhow.



Yes, I agree that it's a flaw, but the workaround is so easy that complaining about it seems a little disingenuous.  It certainly isn't as difficult to rectify as the flaws that almost all bikes have.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2016, 03:55:44 AM
Agree completely with miles. I also have mine installed under the pillion seat, look for the large gauge red wire that is the power for the PDM60

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/Rear-Seat-compartment-2.jpg)
(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/Rear-Seat-compartment-1.jpg)

And yeah this is a flaw (albeit minor), but it would appear that it has been enforced by US regulations. The European version does not have this issue.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 11, 2016, 04:27:24 AM
Thanks for the encouragement, guys.  Question:  How did you wire the low-beam plug?  I am so anal about cutting the original harness that I hate to just cut it off.  I tried to remove the (female) blade connectors inside, but gave up after a little effort.

Also, what kind of wire connectors did you use to join the wires.  The crimp type or those twist type that came with the PDM60?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 11, 2016, 04:31:28 AM
Looked around behind the lights today myself and never did see where the wires for the low beam come from.  Seemed to come over from the high beam side, and while tucking in the factory connector will be easy enough, I haven't decided on how to enter with the new connector wires.  Thinking it will require drilling a hole in the bottom or the cap which I would rather not do.  Need to take a second look.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 11, 2016, 04:35:38 AM
Sunchaser:  Are you in process of wiring yours, too?  I noticed that I can just squeeze the original plug around the new plug...but it did unlatch the bulb cage when I put the screw-cap back on.  I think a small hole in the back of that screw-cap would be OK for the wires, but haven't done it yet.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 11, 2016, 04:40:08 AM
Don't cut anything. Simply pull the original bulb socket out of where it sits and stuff it up and out of the way. Use zip ties if you feel the need.

Buy a new socket from your local auto parts place and run the power from the CanBus auxiliary socket to your new bulb socket, which you then use to replace the one you pulled out of the way.

No harm to any wiring harness, only a few dollars in parts, and no more than 45 minutes of work if you take your time.

It really is that simple.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 11, 2016, 05:09:36 AM
Where do you run the "new" wires.  How do they get out past the cover?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 11, 2016, 05:15:30 AM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
Sunchaser:  Are you in process of wiring yours, too? 

Yes, taking a look at it, trying to noodle-out how to handle the front end.  Mine is a 2016, their could be differences.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 11, 2016, 05:56:18 AM
It's been a while. I'll take a look at how I dealt with it in the morning.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2016, 01:08:09 PM
As Miles said, don't cut anything. Just unplug the OEM and put it out of the way!

Here are 2 options to get the new wiring harness inside the housing:
1) bore a 1 inch hole in the cap (a new cap is around $10), and get a rubber cap/seal (similar to those supplied with HID bulbs), insert the rubber cap/seal into the plastic cap and run the wires through the holes in the rubber cap. I will try to post photos of this tonight. and I may have a spare 1 of these rubber cap/seal at home (if someone is interested, pm me)
2) remove the cap, remove the gasket form the cap, cut a notch in the lip of the cap just big enough to allow the 2 wires to pass, seat the wires and resit the gasket. Put the cap back on carefully after plugging the new connector in and making sure the wires don''t catch. I would suggest lining up the notch at the bottom of the cap.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 11, 2016, 05:42:16 PM
Kind of what I have been thinking...  Small hole or two in the cap maybe a grommet or silicone gasket sealant.  Planning on bullet connectors fron wiring to connector pigtail so It's okay if the connector wires are captured by the cap.  Still huntimg for a nice right angle replacement connector.

I don't intend to use one of the aux connectors though.  I plan to tap into the switched 12V in the alarm (which I will never use) wire to power a small relay and run the wires for the headlight straight from the battery, fused of course.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2016, 06:47:36 PM
You could just put female spades on the (new) wires and then attach directly to the H7 male spades.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 11, 2016, 07:50:24 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
You could just put female spades on the (new) wires and then attach directly to the H7 male spades.

Thatt is a very good idea that I hadn't thought of yet, thank you.  I just happen to have a good selection of insulated "fast-ons" in my garage.  Do you know offhand if they are .250 or .312?  Don't think I have any .312s.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on February 11, 2016, 07:56:04 PM
i did the "miles" method of curing the low beam shut-off....but i could not find a tidy way to "tuck" the OEM H7 connector into the recesses of the headlight so i resorted in simply removing the plastic and insulating the OEM spade terminals...then tucked them away...

have not had a chance to "test" the system as yet....i contracted a terrible hacking cold just after the mod......getting the jitters now as i have not ridden in nearly two weeks!!!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 11, 2016, 08:05:41 PM
There are some wicked coughs going around.  I had a dry one that felt like I had brocken glass in my lungs.

Get well soon, BTW, 70 degrees not a cloud in the sky here...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2016, 08:06:37 PM
I just shoved my OEM connector inside somewhere!!  :007: :173:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 11, 2016, 10:21:21 PM
Has anyone contacted (and heard back from) BMW customer relations on this issue?  This problem could be simply fixed with a 2 minute ECU re-flash at the dealership.  I filed both a written and verbal complaint.  No response.  I wished they'd at least give me a reason.

I cannot believe that two headlights on is illegal in the USA because the Kawasaki competition has FOUR headlights (see attached) that stay on in bright mode.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2016, 10:30:00 PM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
Has anyone contacted (and heard back from) BMW customer relations on this issue?

Several have and it is all documented in the forum, my self included. I just moved on and made the simple fix myself. it can be completed fairly cheaply with a bit of wire, a 12v relay, a posi-tap and a few spade and O connectors!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: DRoss on February 12, 2016, 12:30:11 AM
*Originally Posted by Sunchaser [+]
There are some wicked coughs going around.  I had a dry one that felt like I had brocken glass in my lungs.

Get well soon, BTW, 70 degrees not a cloud in the sky here...

Was 91 deg in wymanwinn,s town today don't think it was the weather :001: only 70 deg maybe you should put on a sweater  :190:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on February 12, 2016, 12:32:42 AM
*Originally Posted by DRoss [+]
Was 91 deg in wymanwinn,s town today don't think it was the weather :001: only 70 deg maybe you should put on a sweater  :190:

yup, pretty warm here....and it helps...on the downhill side of this bitch of a cold.....thank goodness....!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 12, 2016, 01:52:53 AM
*Originally Posted by wymanwinn [+]
i did the "miles" method of curing the low beam shut-off....but i could not find a tidy way to "tuck" the OEM H7 connector into the recesses of the headlight so i resorted in simply removing the plastic and insulating the OEM spade terminals...then tucked them away...

Was it difficult getting those female spade connectors out of the H7 plastic plug?   
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on February 12, 2016, 02:17:13 AM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
*Originally Posted by wymanwinn [+]
Was it difficult getting those female spade connectors out of the H7 plastic plug?

nope, used a very small flat blade screwdriver...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 12, 2016, 03:08:58 AM
*Originally Posted by wymanwinn [+]
nope, used a very small flat blade screwdriver...

I guess I just don't see the trick.  I have a very small screwdriver and trying.  Do you insert it from the back or front?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 12, 2016, 03:17:47 AM
Typically you go in from the front on one side of the contact with a small flat tool and deflect a small tab that retains the contact in the housing while gently tugging on the wire or pushing the contact towards the wire side.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 12, 2016, 03:18:16 AM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
I guess I just don't see the trick.  I have a very small screwdriver and trying.  Do you insert it from the back or front?

Ed, I must be missing something, why are you trying to remove the spades from the OEM connector??
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 12, 2016, 03:23:21 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Ed, I must be missing something, why are you trying to remove the spades from the OEM connector??

Thanks!   Did it.  Hope to finish this infernal wiring, tonight. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 14, 2016, 06:23:29 AM
Took another look at the headlight yesterday...  The connector top left supplies the low beam side compartment including the “parking” lamp.  The lamp tabs are ¼ inch so 250 series fastons (insulated) should work nicely, and the cap is “quarter-turn” so a couple of holes in the cap sized to fit the wires tightly should also work well.

Got my wires routed and fuses wired.  I also added a fused connection for my Battery Tender while I was at it.

@Ed – In an effort to reduce wire clutter I removed a wire from my relay connector.  To do so I made a small tool by pounding the end of a small nail flat to deflect the contact tang..
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on February 14, 2016, 09:02:14 AM
@Ed – In an effort to reduce wire clutter I removed a wire from my relay connector.  To do so I made a small tool by pounding the end of a small nail flat to deflect the contact tang..
[/quote]

Thanks, man!  Looks like a pro-job with the rubber tubing!.  I ended up wrapping mine with high-quality electrical tape, instead.   :021:  I used the connector by the horn for my trigger switch.  I did disassembled that H7 bulb plug to free up space.  At least, I have both headlights on!  Now, I am in love with my bike...again! 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Sunchaser on February 16, 2016, 05:40:57 AM
Ahh..  better!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: empty_infinity on February 27, 2016, 09:38:29 PM
*Originally Posted by Sunchaser [+]
Looked around behind the lights today myself and never did see where the wires for the low beam come from.  Seemed to come over from the high beam side, and while tucking in the factory connector will be easy enough, I haven't decided on how to enter with the new connector wires.  Thinking it will require drilling a hole in the bottom or the cap which I would rather not do.  Need to take a second look.
*Originally Posted by Sunchaser [+]
Where do you run the "new" wires.  How do they get out past the cover?

 :460:   This is what I was asking miles quite a few posts ago:

*Originally Posted by empty_infinity [+]
So miles, I'm still unclear on one step - how does one get the new H7 plug coming from the CANBUS port into the low beam housing with the dust cover?  It would seem the only way to "cure" the low beam is not be using the dust cover or modify it, since the system is typically a fully closed enclosure?

Based on what SimonUK has said and Sunchaser has done, it seems like some level of modification is needed to get the wires in.  Makes sense - I like it.  Great photo on how you got it done Sunchaser (Reply #316 on page 32 for those of you looking for it.)

*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I did use extensions and the ballasts/ignitors are behind the Radiator side panels. I have R&G engine sliders, the ballasts are velcro'd the the mounts. If you don't have R&G sliders you can velcro them directly on the back of the colored panels.

-   YES!  I have these on my bike, glad to hear that the bracket will come in handy.

I’ve got my work cut out for me when the bike comes out of winter storage soon.  Local law enforcement on my end don’t take too kindly to HID’s in reflector-style headlight housings.  I think what I’m going to do is the “miles cure” for the lo-beam + HID in the high beam.  It seems that there are people using both 35w and 55w units.  Any particular recommendations in terms of Brand and color temperature? 

I’ve been looking at OPT7, and they have new HID kits with “Bullet” ballasts that are SUPER compact.  Any thoughts?  Seems like a really nice way to get HID without the fuss of finding a place for the HID ballasts to live.  But I don’t know much about how OPT7 stacks up against other brands for HID…

http://opt-7.com/opt7-blitz-bullet-hid-kit/ (http://opt-7.com/opt7-blitz-bullet-hid-kit/)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 28, 2016, 01:26:01 AM
I know nothing about the Opt-7, but in the spirit of experimentation I say give it a try.  If it works we can add it to the growing knowledge base here.

I have had excellent results with the more traditional Morimoto Elite HID kit, so that's what I installed in my bike (55w, because you can never have enough light).

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: empty_infinity on February 28, 2016, 09:56:52 PM
Sounds good, I'll look into it.  I've emailed to OPT7 to find out some details about the smaller ballasts (CANBUS compatibility, etc.)

I guess I didn't really know how much I should expect to spend on an HID kit.  I've heard the xenon depot kits are great, and they're quite pricey (around $80 per kit).  I've heard the morimoto kits are good too, they're not as pricey.  The OPT7 is cheaper than morimoto, not sure where that puts them.  Local dealer closer to me sells Hyperion HID kits, says they're good too...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on February 29, 2016, 02:09:53 PM
I really like my Opt7 LEDs. Is there an advantage going with HID?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 29, 2016, 02:50:46 PM
The LED I tried in the high beam projector put out almost no light at all.  The design of the bulb fought with the design of the projector and I lost.

The HID works much better, and the current-gem HID ballasts are instant-on, so there is no delay when flashing the high beam.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: empty_infinity on February 29, 2016, 05:18:09 PM
Miles, I think that the OPT7 LED's work quite well in the stock housings compared to other units, based on a couple of users on here having good experience with them

However, I think one downside to the LEDs is that for the lo-beam, you wouldnt be able to use the dust cover, whereas with HIDs you can atleast use the rubber grommet to form a seal with the dust cap.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: empty_infinity on March 03, 2016, 09:21:10 PM
UPDATE:

I heard back from OPT7 today:
"The Bullet HID kit is not CANBUS certified. For new-era CANBUS-enabled motorcycles (BMW Motorrad, Ducati), I would absolutely go with our Fluxbeam LED Conversion Kit. It is by far the smallest, lightest and most reliable CANBUS certified lighting solution we carry.

For the bullet ballasts, The plug and play connections are the same as typical Ballasts, and there is no igniter.  We've received numerous emails from motorcyclists about these units, but unfortunately the small ballasts do not afford CANBUS compatibility. Non-CANBUS motorcycles should be fine though, FYI. (Think run of the mill HID).

I would really recommend our Fluxbeam LED kits.  Our design has been refined to provide some really high quality beam patterns compared to our competitors."

So it's either conventional HID or LEDs. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on March 03, 2016, 10:54:56 PM
I am pretty sure that you do not need Canbus 'compatible' bulbs for our bikes. I run a standard 35w HID on both low and high (The low runs from my PDM60) and have no Canbus errors. as far as I know there are no 'LAMPF!' errors thrown for the lo or hi beam main bulbs, just the indicators and park lights, and this can be turned off in the setting menu.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: empty_infinity on March 04, 2016, 02:10:36 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
I am pretty sure that you do not need Canbus 'compatible' bulbs for our bikes. I run a standard 35w HID on both low and high (The low runs from my PDM60) and have no Canbus errors. as far as I know there are no 'LAMPF!' errors thrown for the lo or hi beam main bulbs, just the indicators and park lights, and this can be turned off in the setting menu.

Really?  I was under the impression that we needed CANBUS kits for our bikes or else we would get an error.  But I realize we can just cancel these in the bike's computer... Well that changes things.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on March 04, 2016, 02:35:52 AM
Unplug your low beam (or high beam as it may be easier) and fire her up! I would be surprised if you got an error on the dash.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Swampwhore on March 05, 2016, 02:23:04 PM
*Originally Posted by empty_infinity [+]


However, I think one downside to the LEDs is that for the lo-beam, you wouldnt be able to use the dust cover, whereas with HIDs you can atleast use the rubber grommet to form a seal with the dust cap.

I have been running their LED's now for quite some time. The dust boot, or lack thereof, has not been an issue.  Several times I have been washing the bike and forgotten to use care with the hose in that area. Several times been in very heavy rain. So far nothing has gotten in there. Not a drop.  I rarely use high beam, the low is very good now. And I ride almost daily in the dark as I work at night.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Dr. D on March 27, 2016, 11:43:45 PM

I installed the Neutrino PDM last year.  It was only today I got around to wiring the low beam to it.  I ran into issues:  About every minute, or so, the PDM would shut down for 10 seconds.  Doh!

Previously I only had a circuit for Gerbings heated gear and a circuit for a phone charger.  I guess those can tolerate a few seconds off, but that doesn't work for the low beam.

Long story short: With the help of Dan Grassetti (who makes the Neutrino PDM) we tracked down the problem to the trigger wire, the wire going to a circuit that is hot with the ignition.  I was using the rear running light wire.  As it turns out, that circuit is only at 2 V (that is 2, not a typo) which is at the bottom edge of the voltage the PDM needs to see to turn on; when the voltage fluctuated it dropped below the minimum.  Makes sense as the stock rear light unit is LED; don't need much voltage, nor current, for that.  Luckily, the stock plate light is 12 V as the stock bulb is a standard bulb.  The Neutrino PDM works rock solid using that as the trigger.

So, Miles, thanks for the initial idea of wiring the low beam to a PDM.  And a big thanks to Dan at Neutrino for providing live phone support on a Sunday afternoon!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 28, 2016, 03:13:20 AM
That's good to know about the Neutrino.  Thanks for being our guinea pig!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: teanau on March 29, 2016, 04:07:18 AM
running mine the same way:
neutrino triggered via plate light, led low beam always on, i even have the low beams stay on for after power off 30 seconds to give me time to put the cover on.
Kind of overkill, but a nice clean setup.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on April 09, 2016, 12:47:10 AM
Has anyone tried to program the Rowe PDM60?  I want to eliminate the 7 second headlight off delay.  With the Rowe programming page, I can make SOME changes, but not the actual delay OFF time. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on April 09, 2016, 01:36:49 AM
You should be able to set that time to 0, or just set the channel to 'Ignition trigger' and NOT 'Ignition trigger with time delay off'.

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/PDM60.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on April 09, 2016, 05:15:03 AM
OK...thanks!  I have set my screen like that and hit "Program".  It says that I was successful.  (BTW...I'm using the positive connection from that little plug up by the steering head as a trigger.)   However, I still have a 7 second power-off delay after ignition shutoff.  Is that normal?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on April 09, 2016, 12:26:11 PM
*Originally Posted by Edslittleworld [+]
(BTW...I'm using the positive connection from that little plug up by the steering head as a trigger.)   However, I still have a 7 second power-off delay after ignition shutoff.  Is that normal?

If you are using the Canbus plug at the front you more than likely have about a minute after turning the ignition off before the trigger wire de-activates, this may be your issue and not the PDM60. It was more of a paint ti install, but I got my live trigger from the high beam park light, on with key, off with key.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Edslittleworld on April 09, 2016, 03:37:44 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
If you are using the Canbus plug at the front you more than likely have about a minute after turning the ignition off before the trigger wire de-activates, this may be your issue and not the PDM60. It was more of a paint ti install, but I got my live trigger from the high beam park light, on with key, off with key.

Simon...you're most kind to respond to my incessant questions.  You're a great guy and quite knowledgable.  Thanks, again!    :002: :002:  :002:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: HOLLYW00D on April 10, 2016, 01:07:10 AM
If anyone's looking for an *instant* switched 12v source in the trunk, the DWA (alarm) plug has one: green with white stripe.
Title: I'd rather not cut into an existing wire...
Post by: pacpal1 on May 10, 2016, 01:35:27 PM
There are several suggestions for tapping into a 12v source to trigger-on a power distribution block (e.g., plate light and alarm).  How are you guys tapping into the source...are you using a Scothlok or other connector that taps into the wire itself?

Tapping into a wire using a Scotchlok seems invasive and maybe not so reliable...so, my real question is whether or not there is some more elegant way of connecting to an unused plug to source the 12v trigger, rather than tapping into a wire.  I finally bought a Neutrino and plan to wire up the headlight as discussed on this thread.  I want to plan for the best possible connection to a 12v trigger source.  Will an available CANBUS connector provide the 12v source?  Is there a CANBUS socket towards the rear of the bike?  I don't have an alarm on my bike...is there a way to make a plug to access whatever 12v source powers the alarm, if so, where is that plug located?

Photos greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on May 10, 2016, 01:54:54 PM
I use one of the wires in the OBD socket. I'll take a picture this afternoon when I get home from work.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on May 11, 2016, 03:02:13 AM
Miles…thanks for the offer of the photo, but I’m going in another direction.  However, you may want to post it for others to see.

Not surprisingly, today I heard from a VERY helpful BMW technician that one shouldn’t connect anything to the diagnostic connector other than a diagnostic tool.  Of course, he is being careful and I can see how a BMW technician may be protective of their diagnostic connectors.

Also, as I suspected, the technician wasn’t too keen on using a Scotchlok to connect to a 12v trigger.  He instead suggested that I use a Denali 194 Marker Bulb Plug-and-Play Trigger Wire Adapter available at twistedthrottle.com; he believes it will connect to the rear license plate bulb.  For me, another $40 here or there really doesn’t matter, and I am looking for the cleanest and least controversial installation possible.  So, today I ordered the Denali Trigger Wire Adapter.  I received my Neutrino power distribution block yesterday and the only remaining component I have to source is the duplicate bulb socket for the front light (I’ll be looking back on this thread this evening to find where to source that part).

I’ll post again later in a week or two, after I install everything.  To clarify for any newbies catching up on this thread, after following it myself for months, I’ve finally decided to proceed as follows: Neutrino (or any other power distribution block) connected via the Denali Trigger Wire Adapter and then wired to the headlight as described early on in this thread.  I hope my post contributes positively to the collective knowledge here on this subject.  I am not an electronics expert, so comments, corrections and other observations are welcome.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on May 11, 2016, 03:45:14 PM
Hmmmm, seems I need a little bit of help here...I'm somewhat unsure about sourcing the H7 socket...I looked back through the entire thread and didn't see any photos or links to a specific model that is proven to work...are their different types of H7 sockets, or will any H7 socket I purchase from any automobile supply store work?  I have not yet disassembled my headlight housing, so I don't know what the BMW S1000R H7 socket looks like.  I also recall reading something to the effect that you can't really get one at a BMW dealer, because they supply it only as part of an entire headlight assembly.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on May 11, 2016, 03:48:46 PM
Standard female spade connectors will work as well, and will take up less room than an 'H7' connector.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on May 11, 2016, 04:40:56 PM
Doesn't the H7 connector somehow screw into, mount, clip or otherwise attache to the headlight housing?  If I just go out and buy any H7, how do I know it will have the correct thread to screw into or the appropriate dimensions to otherwise attach to the S1000R headlight housing?  I'm looking on the Internet at H7 connectors, and they seem to vary in design.  Again, remember, I haven't yet disassembled my headlight housing, so I don't know what it looks like in there...I suppose when I do, I'll know more precisely what I'm dealing with.  Anyway, any link to a photo of a suitable H7 connector will help me out...otherwise looks like I'll be digging into the headlamp housing tonight!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on May 11, 2016, 04:43:52 PM
It doesn't screw it, it's just a plug. I ordered this one from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Ceramic-Headlight-Connector-Socket/dp/B00EZE79HE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage (http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Ceramic-Headlight-Connector-Socket/dp/B00EZE79HE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on May 11, 2016, 05:43:43 PM
Just get a spare H7 bulb and see what fits on it, your options are a H7 connector or 2 female spade connectors.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on May 11, 2016, 09:53:38 PM
waktasz...thanks for the link...I think I understand now...as you said, "it is just a plug"...it's just now becoming apparent to me that something else holds the bulb in place, right?

And SimonUK...seems you are implying I should just source two female plugs because any housing is unnecessary and therefore becomes more cumbersome...that looks like the cleanest option.  I suppose there is no requirement that the current flow through an H7 bulb in any particular direction?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on May 12, 2016, 02:39:04 AM
You'll leave the bulb clipped into its housing and unplug it. That plug will just get tucked away somewhere, unused.  Then you wire the new h7 plug I linked you to  to the aux plug under the fairing and plug it into the bulb for constant power. 

Once you get it apart you'll see.

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2701989/plug.PNG)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Mark on May 17, 2016, 09:58:39 PM
Hi,

Being a newbie I have read and re-read the HID/LED posts and every time I re-read them I change my mind from HID to LED and vice versa.

What do you guys recommend; LED or HID; the main thing for me that I am worrying about is wiring the HID to the stock harness and it shorting/damaging the ballast when the bike starts. I know I could use a PDM 60 but the only extra thing I want to add is a sat nav so it seems a bit overkill.

LEDs however won't be so much of an issue in this respect but take up more space behind the headlight, and as I ride in all weather I would worry that water etc could damage the headlight (not so much the bulb but could enter the reflector) as the cover doesn't fit back on.

Any advice is welcome :)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on May 17, 2016, 10:51:45 PM


My advice might be suspect- after all, I have an LED low beam and HID high beam.


I also ride in any weather and in conditions few others would consider (check my videos) and haven't had any problems of any kind with the missing dust cap on my bike's low beam housing.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Mark on May 18, 2016, 07:24:29 AM
Is the best way to wire HIDs using the PDM60 then? And I have searched for a how to install the PDM 60 but can't find anything that I personally can use..can anyone on here help?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on May 18, 2016, 12:53:49 PM
https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,3543.msg43056.html#msg43056 (https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,3543.msg43056.html#msg43056)

If you do not have any other electrical accessories, then a PDM60 maybe overkill and you could get away with just using a 12v relay. I am sure that you can easily find a waterproof 12v car relay that you can wire up. There is a nice gap on the right side of the ABS module under the seat where the relay can live.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on May 18, 2016, 01:59:47 PM
There really isn't even any need for a relay.  I have my HID plugged into the stock wiring for the high beam with no issues at all.

If you want to cure the low-beam shutoff with a minimum of fuss and you have no desire to add a bunch of other accessories, skip the PDM and just run the low beam off the CanBus auxiliary. It runs enough juice to do the job just fine.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Mark on May 18, 2016, 02:06:41 PM
Thanks SimonUK and Miles; not sure I am explaining myself, i would use the HID for the low beam, and as the low beam light turns on when the ignition is started (but the engine not running) i am worried about the HID etc when i start the bike - i dont want to damage the HID every time i start the bike. (Thats why i thought the PDM would be the way as it can delay the HID starting until i turn the engine on and therefore not overload the ballast/OEM harness.

Hopefully what im asking is a bit clearer  :002:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on May 18, 2016, 02:11:29 PM
Hi Mark, I see now that you are in the UK, so you will not have the problem with the lo beam shutting off when the high beam is turned on.

I have had HID on my bikes for 10 years(R12GS,K12S,K13S,F800ST,F700GS,S1000R), and had no issues when starting the bike.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on May 18, 2016, 02:14:10 PM
As Simon has pointed out, thanks to your location outside of North America you won't have the low-beam shutoff problem. 

Also, as he has stated, there is no risk to the HID from starting the bike.  The HID's ballast will have no problem dealing with any fluctuations in the system.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Mark on May 18, 2016, 08:45:32 PM
Hello,

Thanks guys, good to know, I installed HIDS on my R6 (with angel eyes and projectors) but was told to put a switch in the circuit so as not to screw the ballasts up when I start the bike so just wanted to make sure I didn't need to do the same.

Now I just need to decide LED or HID.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on May 21, 2016, 06:20:07 AM
Well, I promised a post-install report on my effort to cure the low-beam shut off…I just finished the installation yesterday evening.  I based my solution on a Neutrino power block I located in the pillion seat compartment…it is secured with a Velcro strip and wired directly to the battery.  Currently, the Neutrino powers only my low-beam headlight…I’ll later add connections for heated gear and an iPhone charger.  I’m a perfectionist when it goes to these type of projects…I won’t even tell you how many hours I spent on this mod.

I took a quick test ride through a local canyon road this evening, and I can say it’s exciting to see how the BMW engineers intended for the running and bright lights to light up the road.  It’s a bit frustrating that it took all this work just to get to the point where Asian and European customers are as they ride off the showroom floor…really a sad set of circumstances for US owners.  I’m not even a regular night rider…in fact, I hardly ever ride at night, but was so irritated by the lack of light under the stock US configuration that I was compelled to cure the low-beam shut off.

My Neutrino gets its 12 volt switch from the rear license plate bulb, via a Denali 194 Marker Bulb Plug-and-Play Trigger Wire Adapter.  As I explained previously, that’s how a BMW technician recommended I connect to a 12 volt trigger.  Again, he was very helpful and adamant that I shouldn’t connect any other way, and I would have felt like an idiot if I just ignored his advice and connected to any other 12 volt trigger source or used a Scotchlok.

I couldn’t locate a proper sleeve to encase my wiring like what’s used at the factory, so I encased two 16 gauge insulated wires (purchased at auto parts store) in a single 7-foot long length of heat shrink tubing and ran them along the right side of the bike (under the seat, behind the grey tank trim piece and through the large hole in the front of the frame where the stock headlamp wires exit…tried to keep it as far away from the engine as possible).  Hopefully, the heat shrink tubing will withstand the heat of the engine.

The wires exit the heat shrink tubing just before they penetrate the round cover located at the rear of the front running light compartment (I drilled a small hole in the center of the round plastic cover…should have drilled it off center because I used right angle connectors, but what’s done done).   The entire wire assembly is neatly zip tied where needed (make sure you have black zip ties…they’ll look better).

I used separate female spade connectors, as suggested by SimonUK…they’re easier to deal with, in my opinion, and easy to source at local auto parts stores.  I ordered and tried using the pigtail setup from Amazon linked by waktasz, but the ceramic insulation in both units I received broke as I tried to install them.  The female spade connectors I used crimp, rather than solder, so I’m hoping the connection lasts.  I confirmed by searching the Internet that an H7 bulb doesn’t have a plus and minus terminal…it doesn’t matter which way current flows.

Of course, I blew a bulb somehow in the process, but luckily had bought a spare while sourcing other components for this project.  I stuck with the lower brightness bulb, as I’m somewhat concerned about the life of those high energy bulbs.  BTW, the Neutrino says my bike provides 14+ volts of power and that the H7 low-beam draws 4.3 amps of current.  Also, for some reason, the Neutrino-powered low beam appears brighter than when it was powered by the stock wiring.  Question for electronics experts: Could the Neutrino be proving more current to the H7 bulb than the stock wiring?  BTW, the Neutrino allows me to reduce the power provided to any of its circuits…I’m wondering if doing that for daytime riding will extend the life of the low-beam bulb.  Can any electricians comment on that?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on May 21, 2016, 01:08:08 PM
*Originally Posted by pacpal1 [+]
I couldn’t locate a proper sleeve to encase my wiring

Sorry, probably too late for you, but I used this. You just use heat shrink at either end, and it looks pretty professional.

http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-25BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHJCFI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-25BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHJCFI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Noggie on May 29, 2016, 05:23:29 AM
I'll admit I did not read the 36 pages of this thread, but having owned BMW cars for 15 years, and been a part of many car forums in the past I just thought that this should be solvable by coding.
I know on many BMW cars the US vs Euro differences can usually be fixed with a coding tool and a simple parameter change.

Since I have no prior experience with BMW bikes, I did notice the bike has a diagnostic plug, and obviously some elaborate network between various controllers.
I would assume you could just code this rather than messing around with wires.

Edit: Quick search appears you can reprogram the bike with ISTA/P,  ISTA/D software and need an OBD2 cable and an ICOM-D cable to hook up to the bike, using an old laptop with a COM port.
Although I cant find any mention of headlamp reprrgramming, perhaps the NCS Expert tool will allow that.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on May 29, 2016, 05:36:05 AM
*Originally Posted by Noggie [+]
I'll admit I did not read the 36 pages of this thread, but having owned BMW cars for 15 years, and been a part of many car forums in the past I just thought that this should be solvable by coding.
I know on many BMW cars the US vs Euro differences can usually be fixed with a coding tool and a simple parameter change.

Since I have no prior experience with BMW bikes, I did notice the bike has a diagnostic plug, and obviously some elaborate network between various controllers.
I would assume you could just code this rather than messing around with wires.


Yes, I imagine so- since the only difference between the North America version and the Europe/Asia version is that single annoying feature.  Physically they are exactly the same, so it has to be in the software.

That said, doing anything there is way beyond my abilities, but running a couple of wires is quick and easy to do.   
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Noggie on May 29, 2016, 08:14:14 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]

Yes, I imagine so- since the only difference between the North America version and the Europe/Asia version is that single annoying feature.  Physically they are exactly the same, so it has to be in the software.

That said, doing anything there is way beyond my abilities, but running a couple of wires is quick and easy to do.

That is true, wiring is pretty easy.

I know people in the US has reprogrammed headlamps on cars for the same reason, where the US only use the inner set of lights for "flash to pass", and the outer is Hi/Lo beam. whilst in Europe the inner set also works as hi beams.
Then there is the comfort opening/closing of windows and sunroof from the key remote that is standard in Europe and illegal in the US.
So I figured that this, and possibly other differences would be down to coding on the bikes too.
It's normally not that hard, you just find the right line of code (typically in german text), and it will have a 0 or 1 setting where 0 is euro and 1 is US.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on June 13, 2016, 04:29:00 PM
*Originally Posted by Noggie [+]
I'll admit I did not read the 36 pages of this thread, but having owned BMW cars for 15 years, and been a part of many car forums in the past I just thought that this should be solvable by coding.
I know on many BMW cars the US vs Euro differences can usually be fixed with a coding tool and a simple parameter change.

I have been working on this for a while.   :002:  I now have the Rheingold software going, with an ICOM and an adapter cable from the 16-pin OBD port to the round connector on the S1000R.  This lets me do a lot of diagnostics but no coding. 

Next step is to get the right data files for ISTA/P to do the coding.  Stay tuned. 

I know it's fairly easy to change the wiring, but I'd rather fix this by software than hardware if possible.  So far I haven't cut into the wiring harness for any reason--actually this is pretty unusual for me, every other bike I own has some "custom" work done on the wiring harness...   :230:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on June 13, 2016, 04:35:28 PM
 :821: :821: Shasta for the effort.

I'd like to add, I have done the low beam mod, and you don't have to cut into the wiring harness.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: sweatmark on August 11, 2016, 02:41:09 AM
New to the S1000R and this board, but have spent time digging through CFR 49-571.108 in the past. Plus, I'm a fan of PDM-60s with units installed in my Rockster and F800.

Regarding the S1000R's US-spec alternating low/dip-beam and high-beam function:

(1) the R's high beam (appears to be an off-the-shelf Hella 60mm projector HB3/9005 module) differentiates the bike from its S1000 siblings, which use H7 bulbs in reflectors for both low- and high-beam;

(2) my guess is that the 65W HB3 in the Hella projector puts out enough center zone candela, such that additional illumination from the low/dip-beam would exceed the "maximum photometric intensity" specs shown for motorcycles in http://www.ecfr.gov/graphics/pdfs/er04de07.016.pdf (http://www.ecfr.gov/graphics/pdfs/er04de07.016.pdf);

(3) my other guess is that because of (1), the sum of low- and high-beam simultaneous illumination for RR and XR does not exceed the maximum specs in the table.

This past weekend I enjoyed 7 hours/350 miles in the S1000R saddle and learned that:

SO, what to do?
Here's my plan after reading through Section 108 again plus all 37 pages of this thread:

Install PDM-60 in the S1000R. I'm concerned about aux power budget, but usually run no more than 100W = heated gear+phone+comms+lights. Still, I need to remember that the S is not the R1150R with 700W alternator.

Put an H7-base LED emitter in the OE low-beam reflector, run it constantly from a PDM-60 5A line.

Install a fog/driving lamp, and power it using the low-beam circuit.

Replace the 9005 with a 9011 (HIR1).

The result will be constant low/dip-beam in the reflector with approved DOT cut-off and hopefully little glare. The "fog" lamp will add conspicuity, and get installed low & left to meet FMVSS/NHTS standard. Toggling high-beam will flip between fog lamp and OE high-beam projector. Flash-to-pass will illuminate all 3 lamps, and high-beam will combine reflector+projector. I'm betting that code enforcement personnel will not take the time to measure excess candela..

Wish me luck.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 11, 2016, 05:56:18 AM
That's pretty much my setup. I have an LED low powered from the PDM, an HID high beam powered normally and two 24w LED driving lights powered by the PDM but run through a device whose name escapes me at the moment but allows me to run the driving beams at 100% when the high beam is on and 40% when only the low beam is engaged.

I also run heated gear, a phone and a radar detector off the PDM.  With everything going full blast (all lights on high, heated jacket at max and grips on level 2) my system still shows 14.2v.  Sure, we don't have an alternator built for a touring rig, but it's enough for pretty much anything you might actually run.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: sweatmark on August 11, 2016, 06:45:01 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
That's pretty much my setup. I have an LED low powered from the PDM, an HID high beam powered normally and two 24w LED driving lights powered by the PDM but run through a device whose name escapes me at the moment but allows me to run the driving beams at 100% when the high beam is on and 40% when only the low beam is engaged.

I also run heated gear, a phone and a radar detector off the PDM.  With everything going full blast (all lights on high, heated jacket at max and grips on level 2) my system still shows 14.2v.  Sure, we don't have an alternator built for a touring rig, but it's enough for pretty much anything you might actually run.

Skene Design IQ smart dimmer? That's what I use on my R1150R to control Baja Design LEDs.

Thanks for the confirmation that the S can handle some aux electrical gear. I'm trying to lighten the generator load with low-beam LED (30W instead of 55W) to allow for fog lamp (35W), vest (45W), USB/GPS (25W max). If power draw looks sketchy, I can install a shunt to get real-time amps & Vdc at battery. Has anyone documented differences in power budget between standard R and the Sport/Premium?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 11, 2016, 01:20:51 PM
Yeah, it's the Skene unit.

At max draw my stuff outpulls your planned needs by a significant margin. You'll do ok.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: sweatmark on August 11, 2016, 05:32:52 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Yeah, it's the Skene unit.
At max draw my stuff outpulls your planned needs by a significant margin. You'll do ok.

Good news, thanks.

And thanks for this topic thread - great info.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 12, 2016, 12:40:47 AM
Honestly, I couldn't believe how bad the headlights were the first time I rode at night.  There had to be a solution.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: pacpal1 on August 12, 2016, 01:26:28 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Honestly, I couldn't believe how bad the headlights were the first time I rode at night.  There had to be a solution.

Agreed.  I can't believe there are any long-term S1000R owners who haven't made the modification.  My experience with my low beam shut off cure using a Neutrino is flawless.  Whenever I switch to high beam I wonder in amazement that there are people out there riding at night without the modification.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: sweatmark on August 12, 2016, 05:50:16 AM
*Originally Posted by pacpal1 [+]
Agreed.  I can't believe there are any long-term S1000R owners who haven't made the modification.  My experience with my low beam shut off cure using a Neutrino is flawless.  Whenever I switch to high beam I wonder in amazement that there are people out there riding at night without the modification.

Ditto that. My last 90 minutes in 7-hour ride last Saturday was descent from 5000ft mountain pass in the dark. I followed a few car lengths behind vehicles in order to enhance my forward vision beyond the low-beam's attempt. The contrast between weak headlight function and strong performance of otherwise excellent bike really surprised me. 600 mile check is tomorrow, and headlight parts are on order.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: aaronman on September 06, 2016, 08:21:05 PM
I commute at night, and winter is coming, so I need to fix this headlight. I have a PDM 60, I've read this thread and all the great information that has been shared, but I'm a novice and still have some questions if someone would be so kind.

Installing the PDM 60
1. I run the red wire with the terminal connector to the + terminal,  but what do I do with the black ground wire that has no terminal connector? The kit includes connectors to put it on negative terminal, but I assume there's some reason the ground doesn't come with one pre-installed. What is that black wire with the plastic sheath and two terminal connectors on either end?

2. I run the trigger wire from the PDM 60 to the license plate light wire. Do I need to use a special trigger wire adapter piece, or will I be fine just splicing into license plate wire using heatshrink tubing?

Wiring the Low-Beam

1. I'm going to unplug the old h7 wire harness and tuck it away somewhere (or cut it off and wrap wires), and use female spades connected to 2x 16g wires. How do I get these two wires to the PDM 60? I'm guessing 1 wire goes to the circuit wire on the PDM and 1 wire goes to the... negative terminal on the battery?

Thanks for any help!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: sweatmark on September 07, 2016, 04:27:49 PM
The short heavy gauge black wire with ring terminal at both ends is intended as ground connection for accessories powered through the PDM60. The idea: attach one end to battery (-) terminal, and use the other end as ground for gizmos by clamping together their respective ground wires with (supposedly) more ring terminals all joined by nut & bolt. It's a practical solution to ensure grounds are solid connections.

The thin ground wire in the PDM60 harness needs ground connection for the device's circuit board, but carries little current. Attach it with accessory grounds to the fat ground wire as described above.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: aaronman on September 07, 2016, 05:08:15 PM
Thank you, that makes sense now.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Daveb6769 on September 23, 2016, 05:35:23 AM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Honestly, I couldn't believe how bad the headlights were the first time I rode at night.  There had to be a solution.
Where do you get the mod to fix the light
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Daveb6769 on September 23, 2016, 05:43:19 AM
Where do you get a neutrino?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on September 23, 2016, 11:58:07 AM
https://www.google.com/#q=arboreal+systems+neutrino
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on September 26, 2016, 12:53:25 AM
Here is another option. All you need is a standard relay and some skill.
I have included a schematic.
This will use the standard low beam circuit to power the low beam until you switch to high beam at which point the high beam circuit will trigger the relay and power the low beam from the battery. Alternatively, you can use the Nav plug for power if you don't want to run power back to the battery. 
The high beam positive is white and the low beam is yellow, brown is ground. The wires are easily accessible behind the lamps. I recommend soldering your connections and using shrink tubing or at least "3M 33+" tape.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: JohnnyBMWgood on September 26, 2016, 07:11:30 AM
What will happen if your bike gets a software update which makes your low beam not switch off when selecting high beam?
Unlikely possibility, I know, but nonetheless wouldn't it blow a fuse?
Clever option though!!


*Originally Posted by Go_Outside [+]
Here is another option. All you need is a standard relay and some skill.
I have included a schematic.
This will use the standard low beam circuit to power the low beam until you switch to high beam at which point the high beam circuit will trigger the relay and power the low beam from the battery. Alternatively, you can use the Nav plug for power if you don't want to run power back to the battery. 
The high beam positive is white and the low beam is yellow, brown is ground. The wires are easily accessible behind the lamps. I recommend soldering your connections and using shrink tubing or at least "3M 33+" tape.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on September 26, 2016, 01:56:42 PM
Nope. But it would become unnecessary. 🙃
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: beech on October 15, 2016, 06:09:13 PM
Go, I was going to do much the same with a reasonably large wattage diode I have but your relay system is good and the default failure mode is good. Simple is good. Copied your wire diagram for a winter project soon. I wonder if there ever will be a software change. Probably not as it would have to have DOT approval and BMW won't bother spending the money on it. Maybe the GS-911 folks can find where to toggle the software for this change.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on October 15, 2016, 06:27:47 PM
I will be very happy when someone gives us a way to hack our system. How hard could it possibly be for a talented techie to gain access. I would love the same dampening control as is on the rr so when i go up a spring rate i can increase my rebound dampening a little.  Adjusting traction control seperate from abs would be nice too. Or, how about "dial a wheelie".  :169:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: J_T on October 26, 2016, 07:41:49 PM
I see many options thrown around:
Relay with switched power off of High beam as GO_Outside drew in his diagram (Attached for reference. This has the advantage of keeping the harness hooked to the low beam so probably no error,) PDM60, Neutrino, CanBus Aux etc...

I see the PDM60, Neutrino and the CanBus auxiliary being mentioned as alternatives to the relay.

I'm leaning toward the PDM60 or Neutrino because of future addition of other electronics but My question is do those devices allow multiple switched power so you can switched power from the High-beam so you can wire similar to Go-Outsides' diagram (Attached) or do you use a switch that comes on with the Key and disconnect the low beam harness because it will be constant on after using the PDM60 or Neutrino? (and if the harness low beam is disconnected wouldn't it cause error code because lamp isn't detected?)

Am i making sense?

Thank you! 

Daylight savings time is over in a week here so I'm looking forward to fixing this! Great information in this thread for sure!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on October 26, 2016, 07:45:01 PM
There are no errors thrown to the dash on these bikes when either the low or high beam are out or disconnected.

on the PDM60 there is the 'switched power' trigger and also a 'ground trigger'. I just have mine wired that the low beam gets triggered with ignition and a small delay(though you probably don't need the delay).
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kevin Y on November 01, 2016, 05:04:21 PM
I just came across this thread and am currently trying to digest all the information and the ways of finally correcting the crappy headlight situation so I have started looking at the pdm-60 and the neutrino as options but have a question.  I have one of the old centech AP-2 fuse panel things sitting around from my R1200ST, do you think that would be a sufficient item to use instead of the pdm-60?  Not trying to be cheap but hey I already have one of those and it does save $175.

Thanks for all the information guys.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on November 01, 2016, 05:09:15 PM
*Originally Posted by Kevin Y [+]
I just came across this thread and am currently trying to digest all the information and the ways of finally correcting the crappy headlight situation so I have started looking at the pdm-60 and the neutrino as options but have a question.  I have one of the old centech AP-2 fuse panel things sitting around from my R1200ST, do you think that would be a sufficient item to use instead of the pdm-60?  Not trying to be cheap but hey I already have one of those and it does save $175.

Thanks for all the information guys.


Should work fine.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on November 02, 2016, 02:11:31 AM
*Originally Posted by Kevin Y [+]
I just came across this thread and am currently trying to digest all the information and the ways of finally correcting the crappy headlight situation so I have started looking at the pdm-60 and the neutrino as options but have a question.  I have one of the old centech AP-2 fuse panel things sitting around from my R1200ST, do you think that would be a sufficient item to use instead of the pdm-60?  Not trying to be cheap but hey I already have one of those and it does save $175.

Thanks for all the information guys.


The Centech will do just fine.  I had one on my old Speed Triple and it worked flawlessly.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Kevin Y on November 02, 2016, 02:18:17 AM
Miles, is there a specific low beam and high beam kit you used when upgrading? 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on November 02, 2016, 12:34:57 PM
At first I went with LED kits for both, but the bulb I got didn't work in the projector housing of the high beam. It was about as useful as a mini mag light taped to my fairing.  The low beam light is excellent, and I'm still using that one.
For the high beam I went with an HID kit, and I've been very happy with that.

For the links, they are somewhere fairly early in this thread.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Snatchdragon on November 02, 2016, 04:08:37 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
enjoying glorious... for two seconds.

You been speaking to my ex-wife?  :001:

seriously, it is annoying. It's great for that split second. the lights I mean!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on January 26, 2017, 06:08:00 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
Here are the step by step instructions:

It's actually really straightforward. The problem isn't the high beam- it's that the low beam shuts off. The solution is to wire it so the low beam stays on full time when the bike is running.

The way to do this is to get the auxiliary outlet connector from your dealer, and an H11 headlight socket from Pep Boys (or Kragen or wherever else).

Remove the right side fairing, tank cover and right side headlight shroud (the painted piece with the turn signal sticking out. You don't have to remove the signal itself, but when you pull the shroud side panel you'll need to unplug the signal wire).

The auxiliary plug is right there in plain sight under the side fairing.  Make sure the connector the dealer gave you works.  It might not. If it does, plug it in and leave it there.

Turn the bars to the left so you can access the back side of the right headlight. There's a round plastic cover hiding the bulb. Remove this and pull the bulb. This wil be an incredible pain in the neck. When you get it out, unplug the bulb from the wiring harness and plug the bulb into the socket you bought. If it fits well, go ahead and reinstall the bulb and cover piece, leaving the wire ends from the new socket out where you can reach them.

Now connect the two, the auxiliary connector and the new bulb socket.  Route the wiring up under the tank cover and out following along with the other things that go out the front part of the cover.  Use tiny zip ties to keep everything organized and neat.

Check your work. Turn on the bike and make sure the low beam actually works. If it does, button everything up and pat yourself on the back.
If it doesn't, you have done something wrong somewhere- probably a bad connection. Check everything and test again until it does work.
what is the part number for the canbus connector?  having trouble finding it on my own
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 26, 2017, 06:22:49 PM
83 30 0 413 585    REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on January 26, 2017, 06:24:08 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
83 30 0 413 585    REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656
that's the one.   Thank you.   
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on January 26, 2017, 06:32:17 PM
so for simplicity sake before i buy, these two items plus some electrical tools and knowhow is all you need to get the low beam working on the canbus plug correct?

canbus repair plug  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWPWLQU

h7 plug https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-84717-H7-Bulb-Socket/dp/B001P1XF1E
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on January 26, 2017, 07:20:50 PM
*Originally Posted by andrewbrandon19 [+]
so for simplicity sake before i buy, these two items plus some electrical tools and knowhow is all you need to get the low beam working on the canbus plug correct?

I believe so, But I think a better option is to run via a 12v relay wired directly to the battery and use the CanBus plug as the switched source trigger.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on January 26, 2017, 07:24:35 PM
Probably would be since I'm still using a standard bulb eith the higher draw that incurs,  but my electrical knowledge is old and limited and I don't really trust myself with something more complicated than making toast
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on February 11, 2017, 08:00:09 PM
OK so i got everything pulled apart and ready to tackle this today when I realized the dust cover is gonna have to be kept off to run the wires from the canbus connector.  I live in an apartment with no garage and this bike sees plenty of rain while riding, is keeping the dust cover off wise with all the water this bike sees?  Is there any holes  for water to drain out of the headlight assembly?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2017, 08:26:51 PM
*Originally Posted by andrewbrandon19 [+]
OK so i got everything pulled apart and ready to tackle this today when I realized the dust cover is gonna have to be kept off to run the wires from the canbus connector.  I live in an apartment with no garage and this bike sees plenty of rain while riding, is keeping the dust cover off wise with all the water this bike sees?  Is there any holes  for water to drain out of the headlight assembly?

You are just running 2 wires in there to 'permanently' power the low beam, correct?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on February 11, 2017, 08:42:18 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
You are just running 2 wires in there to 'permanently' power the low beam, correct?
yes
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2017, 08:50:39 PM
*Originally Posted by andrewbrandon19 [+]
yes

So you could :
1) mark on the cap where the lowest point is.
2) remove cap, there is a rubber seal on the cap , do not cut this, but cut a small notch in the outer edge of the cap where you marked the bottom, make it just big enough for the 2 wires. (btw a new cap cost about $12)
3) connect your wires to the low beam, and carefully feed them out of the housing where the notch in the cap is (this won't be at the bottom until you twist the cap on.
4) carefully twist the cap to lock it, moving the wires with the twist so that they stay in the notch.
5) you should have a sealed cap now with the wires coming out.  :028:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on February 11, 2017, 08:54:45 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
So you could :
1) mark on the cap where the lowest point is.
2) remove cap, there is a rubber seal on the cap , do not cut this, but cut a small notch in the outer edge of the cap where you marked the bottom, make it just big enough for the 2 wires. (btw a new cap cost about $12)
3) connect your wires to the low beam, and carefully feed them out of the housing where the notch in the cap is (this won't be at the bottom until you twist the cap on.
4) carefully twist the cap to lock it, moving the wires with the twist so that they stay in the notch.
5) you should have a sealed cap now with the wires coming out.  :028:
I actually considered that but the harness I bought is too long and sticks out the back.    I was thinking of ordering a repair connector from BMW but they want $40 for the one that is short and has the 90 degree bend.  Not sure where else to look for one.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2017, 08:56:45 PM
*Originally Posted by andrewbrandon19 [+]
I actually considered that but the harness I bought is too long and sticks out the back.    I was thinking of ordering a repair connector from BMW but they want $40 for the one that is short and has the 90 degree bend.  Not sure where else to look for one.

I just used 2 female spade connectors, about $1 for 10 at a auto-parts store.  :152:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on February 11, 2017, 09:09:43 PM
well  :232: that is a good idea.  without trying yet, is it possible to wedge the stock harness somewhere inside the cap to get it out of the way?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2017, 09:34:18 PM
*Originally Posted by andrewbrandon19 [+]
well  :232: that is a good idea.  without trying yet, is it possible to wedge the stock harness somewhere inside the cap to get it out of the way?

Yep, I have done it, and I am pretty sure Miles has, and probably all others who have done the 'Permanent' mod.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on February 11, 2017, 10:17:56 PM
That was a lot more idiot proof without having to use the H7 connector  :152:.  Only hiccup I had was someone way back at the beginning of this thread said use the #1 and #3 wire on the canbus connector but its actually #1 and #2.

Thank you Simon for your help!   :020:


(https://i.imgur.com/wm344H4.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/xbJrn2O.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/oxZRHVJ.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/GrcMuvs.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/zqNnUcz.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 11, 2017, 10:23:30 PM
 :152:

Keep us informed, I am interested to see if you run into any issues running from the Canbus connector (I think it is rated under 5 amps, but you are pulling just under 3 amps there), and those being quite thin wires (not sure what gauge or amp rating they are), but they should be fine.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: GSUS969 on February 11, 2017, 10:28:01 PM
I'm currently working on this myself (thanks to Simon's instructions).  But, does anybody know which license plate light wire I can tap into for power?  Thanks!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andrewbrandon19 on February 11, 2017, 10:45:40 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
:152:

Keep us informed, I am interested to see if you run into any issues running from the Canbus connector (I think it is rated under 5 amps, but you are pulling just under 3 amps there), and those being quite thin wires (not sure what gauge or amp rating they are), but they should be fine.
Will do, I do a ton of dark commuting and if it breaks I will know about it soon enough lol
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: GSUS969 on February 11, 2017, 11:33:11 PM
*Originally Posted by GSUS969 [+]
I'm currently working on this myself (thanks to Simon's instructions).  But, does anybody know which license plate light wire I can tap into for power?  Thanks!

I was able to solve this by tapping the posi-tap to the wires and seeing which one turned the headlight on.  I'm color blind so I'm not sure if the wire was green or red, but it wasn't the brown wire.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 12, 2017, 12:53:19 AM
Under the passenger seat there is a white plug on the right hand  side that has for wires going down to the tail are (brown, Green, blue?black with white splotches, blue/red with white splotches. The brown wire is the ground. Green wire is the +ve for the tag light, this is the one you want to tap into (at the white plug).

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/Tag-light.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/Tag-light-plug.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on February 21, 2017, 12:39:02 AM
Two things.
First Adjusting the high beam helped a lot.
Second an OPT7 LED H7 lamp is not as focused or bright as the stock lamp, as can be seen in the attached photos.

The first picture is the stock lamp.
The second is the OPT7.
The third is the OPT7 rotated slightly and pushed further in to the socket. It is better but not entirely secure.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: bavarianmw on February 22, 2017, 03:46:47 PM
Okay...  So Opt7 for high beam is working for people, but then which H7 LED for the low beam is best with our headlight?!  --MW
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on February 22, 2017, 04:05:18 PM
To be clear, i tried the OPT7 in the low beam. That is what the pictures are of.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on February 24, 2017, 02:14:01 PM
*Originally Posted by Go_Outside [+]
To be clear, i tried the OPT7 in the low beam. That is what the pictures are of.

Following this but not sure and maybe missed this but has anyone tried running an LED bulb in the low beam powered from the CANbus connector power directly?  Cyclops LED is rated at 30W and wondering if that would pop the fuse on the CANbus connection...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on February 24, 2017, 02:35:38 PM
Yes. That's what I'm doing.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on February 24, 2017, 03:19:26 PM
*Originally Posted by waktasz [+]
Yes. That's what I'm doing.

Perfect thanks gonna try that looks like the best and easiest  fix
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on February 24, 2017, 06:02:53 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
Perfect thanks gonna try that looks like the best and easiest  fix

So you guys are ok with a dimmer scattered lowbeam?
Does it work better on the road than it does on my garage door? Im not being a jerk, Im genuinely asking. When I saw the beam pattern I pulled the lamp out and sent it back for a refund. I never tried riding with it.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on February 24, 2017, 06:44:02 PM
*Originally Posted by Go_Outside [+]
So you guys are ok with a dimmer scattered lowbeam?
Does it work better on the road than it does on my garage door? Im not being a jerk, Im genuinely asking. When I saw the beam pattern I pulled the lamp out and sent it back for a refund. I never tried riding with it.

I will be using a Cyclops H7 LED, I have used them in my K1300s and in the high beam already on the S1KR  I have been  more than happy with the performance of that over standard.  I actually have a HID in the low right now but hate that the low cuts out when the high is on.  I will put an LED in the low and run it off the accessory connector on the right side which I can't do with the HID as it draws too much power on startup.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: waktasz on February 24, 2017, 06:48:22 PM
*Originally Posted by Go_Outside [+]
So you guys are ok with a dimmer scattered lowbeam?
Does it work better on the road than it does on my garage door? Im not being a jerk, Im genuinely asking. When I saw the beam pattern I pulled the lamp out and sent it back for a refund. I never tried riding with it.

The stock headlight was terrible. I like the opt7 a lot more. I guess it's possible it doesn't have as much absolute range, but I can see so much more of my surroundings with it it prevents that tunnel vision feeling I used to have when riding on very dark roads.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 04, 2017, 10:16:18 PM
Fitted the Cyclops LED today into the low beam wired to the accessory connector, works really well.  The only issue I have is the cover won't fit back on now as the original connector and fan for the LED won't fit. 

For now I will leave the cover off I am thinking of using the original plug to run a small LED strip down the nose if I don't like the look of it I will cut off the plug seal the wires and pull the fuse.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on March 04, 2017, 11:30:33 PM
can you not tuck the original plug up inside the low beam housing?? I think that is what I did with my HID install.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 04, 2017, 11:43:44 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
if I don't like the look of it I will cut off the plug seal the wires and pull the fuse.


I really wouldn't do that.  I'd avoid violating the harness in any such fashion.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 05, 2017, 02:07:46 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
can you not tuck the original plug up inside the low beam housing?? I think that is what I did with my HID install.

Hi Simon,

I could not get the plug to fit around the housing for the light and with the LED he fan takes all the room in the cap.  I will take another look this week and pull off the front cowling an see if I can route it back in there somewhere. Any tips on getting the cowling off?  I can't find any instructions anywhere...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on March 05, 2017, 03:08:29 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
Hi Simon,

I could not get the plug to fit around the housing for the light and with the LED he fan takes all the room in the cap.  I will take another look this week and pull off the front cowling an see if I can route it back in there somewhere. Any tips on getting the cowling off?  I can't find any instructions anywhere...

Remove side panels, screen and nose section(1 screw underneath).

remove a screw either side that secures the nose to the dash mount.
looking up from underneath the light housing there are 2 'circlips' just behind the steering damper, pull those off remove the 2 washers and prize the housing off the pins. The housing should now be free to give better access.

There are descriptions and photos somewhere on the forum.

pm me your e-mail address and I can send  how I installed my HID, it has some photos of what to remove panel wise.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 05, 2017, 03:30:07 PM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Remove side panels, screen and nose section(1 screw underneath).

remove a screw either side that secures the nose to the dash mount.
looking up from underneath the light housing there are 2 'circlips' just behind the steering damper, pull those off remove the 2 washers and prize the housing off the pins. The housing should now be free to give better access.

There are descriptions and photos somewhere on the forum.

pm me your e-mail address and I can send  how I installed my HID, it has some photos of what to remove panel wise.

Great thanks Simon, I'll shoot you a PM for the instructions!

A
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 21, 2017, 01:54:18 PM
All done, took a couple of hours but now have 2 Cyclops 4000 Lumen LEDS; in both High and Low beam.  Low beam powered directly off Aux connector on right side, I managed to get the original plug into the light housing by bending the mounting tab (scary!) and the cap fits fine after I notched the headlight housing for the wire to the LED ballast.  Once you take ff the front cowling (2 screws + 2 C clips Thanks Simon for the instructions) its really easy to get to all bulbs and find places to stick the small LED ballasts. 

Now I can run High and Low together and I can actually see at night!!  Will update once I get some miles in...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 21, 2017, 03:24:28 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
All done, took a couple of hours but now have 2 Cyclops 4000 Lumen LEDS; in both High and Low beam.  Low beam powered directly off Aux connector on right side, I managed to get the original plug into the light housing by bending the mounting tab (scary!) and the cap fits fine after I notched the headlight housing for the wire to the LED ballast.  Once you take ff the front cowling (2 screws + 2 C clips Thanks Simon for the instructions) its really easy to get to all bulbs and find places to stick the small LED ballasts. 

Now I can run High and Low together and I can actually see at night!!  Will update once I get some miles in...


Well done!  How does the high beam's light pattern look?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 21, 2017, 03:52:46 PM
I'll take some pics later and post up, not really used at night yet still waiting for the ice to melt :(
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on March 21, 2017, 05:41:08 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
All done, took a couple of hours but now have 2 Cyclops 4000 Lumen LEDS; in both High and Low beam.  Low beam powered directly off Aux connector on right side, I managed to get the original plug into the light housing by bending the mounting tab (scary!) and the cap fits fine after I notched the headlight housing for the wire to the LED ballast.  Once you take ff the front cowling (2 screws + 2 C clips Thanks Simon for the instructions) its really easy to get to all bulbs and find places to stick the small LED ballasts. 

Now I can run High and Low together and I can actually see at night!!  Will update once I get some miles in...

Andy, looking forward to your night ride report...

how did you add the H7 high beam bulb to the lamp connector......?

wyman
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 21, 2017, 08:27:41 PM
*Originally Posted by wymanwinn [+]
Andy, looking forward to your night ride report...

how did you add the H7 high beam bulb to the lamp connector......?

wyman

My bad I ordered a H7 and HB3 from Cyclops so the connectors were correct for both.  The fitting of the HB3 into the lamp housing is a bit of a pain as the housing is kinda cheaply made and just stamped metal with some cut outs so its not possible to get it in correctly without the cowling off if you try it always misses one of the tabs as you can't see the last one with the cowling on.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: wymanwinn on March 21, 2017, 08:30:55 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
My bad I ordered a H7 and HB3 from Cyclops so the connectors were correct for both.  The fitting of the HB3 into the lamp housing is a bit of a pain as the housing is kinda cheaply made and just stamped metal with some cut outs so its not possible to get it in correctly without the cowling off if you try it always misses one of the tabs as you can't see the last one with the cowling on.

yup, been email conversing with Darryl....ordered the same and i fully understand the need to remove the housing...do the same on my RT....saves blood...LOL

thanks Andy!

wyman
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on March 21, 2017, 09:04:03 PM
I would like to see it also.
I am wondering if i can fit a highbeam assembly from another vehicle. Has anyone tried?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on March 22, 2017, 01:13:05 AM
Ok so here goes, apologies for the poor quality pics they are from my iphone:

Pic from the front with High and Low on, not really much to see here:

https://flic.kr/p/SVt7RL (https://flic.kr/p/SVt7RL)

Low Beam Only

https://flic.kr/p/SVt9hw (https://flic.kr/p/SVt9hw)

Low and High Beam

https://flic.kr/p/T6JK5b (https://flic.kr/p/T6JK5b)

I probably need to adjust my beams but won't do that until I get a real road test so these are in how they came from the factory. Also my garage slopes quite a lot front to back so the beam is definitely high.  I am about 12 - 13 feet from the garage door if that affects anything.

Be interested in opinions, I don't know much about lights and scatter and all that...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on March 22, 2017, 05:27:20 PM
That looks very much like the mess of light i got from mine. Hopefully it works better than it looks. The light scatter on the left is going to piss off oncoming drivers though.
Fortunately i dont ride much at night except in comute traffic or i would be considering a different bike. Oh hell im always considering a new bike.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Cold Avatar on March 29, 2017, 05:17:42 AM
Well, hello all!

As this is my first post I'd like to say thank you to everyone that's been finding a solution to the low beam shutoff for the models in the US of A.  I have to say, I picked up the '16 model and first night riding I experienced, I quickly realized I had the options of A) cutting speed down to 40 and keeping the low beam on (not really an option) or B) finding a vehicle I could tail at about 100 yards as an escort (This seemed to work 1/2 of the time).  I've been heavily considering the clearwaters or making a custom bracket for some baja designs lights, but as these are expenditures I would like to delay or negate, if possible, I've been religiously perusing this thread and any others like it for options.

I'll probably be going with powering the low beam off of the right knee canbus and have decided to give the Opt7 leds a shot for both lights, read some yea's and nay's for the high beam on this route due to scatter.  Popping in led parking lights while I'm in there.  I recently threw led turns on the back end and fitted pair of rizoma mirrors with the led turns incorporated, the difference in illumination for the turns alone is amazing (too bad they're not standard equipment).

Anyway, I just wanted to say hello and thanks for taking the chances and posting about it so others are better informed!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on March 29, 2017, 09:07:15 AM
I'm glad we could help out.   :028:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 05, 2017, 11:57:17 PM
Hi Andy,
could you kindly send me the info to upgrade all of my headlamps and parking bulbs? I just picked up my '15 S1Kr and the lighting is terrible, this will be my first job!
Thanks,
Jerry
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 06, 2017, 01:06:55 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Neither does the XR, R1200RS, or in fact any other bike that I know of!
The R1200RS (I have a '16), does the same thing, low beam off when hi beam on.....bothersome.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on April 06, 2017, 05:00:07 PM
*Originally Posted by fischetg [+]
Hi Andy,
could you kindly send me the info to upgrade all of my headlamps and parking bulbs? I just picked up my '15 S1Kr and the lighting is terrible, this will be my first job!
Thanks,
Jerry

Hey Jerry,

Here is the list of the parts I used:

Parking lights, this is a pack of 2 so is good for the high beam and low beam parking lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIEX722/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIEX722/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Cyclops LEDS - use code ADV for a 5% discount:

Low beam: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html (http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html)
High beam: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/9005HB3-LED-headlight-Bulb-4000-Lumen_p_113.html (http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/9005HB3-LED-headlight-Bulb-4000-Lumen_p_113.html)

If you want to wire you low beam to the accessory circuit so you have have low and high on at the same time you need the BMW connector below and a female highlight connector socket:
BMW part # 83 30 0 413 585 REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656

I think this is it but you should check: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Independent-Adventure-Megamoto/dp/B00EWPWLQU (https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Independent-Adventure-Megamoto/dp/B00EWPWLQU)

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on April 06, 2017, 05:23:08 PM
I used the jdm star parking lamp. It lasted one day. The heat from the high beam killed it fast.
Although... if your swapping to LED highbeam you might not have that problem.
Andy,
The led highbeam works well for you?
Didnt you post some beam pattern pictures that showed a scattered light pattern? Does it work better than it looks?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on April 06, 2017, 05:29:32 PM
*Originally Posted by Go_Outside [+]
I used the jdm star parking lamp. It lasted one day. The heat from the high beam killed it fast.
Although... if your swapping to LED highbeam you might not have that problem.
Andy,
The led highbeam works well for you?
Didnt you post some beam pattern pictures that showed a scattered light pattern? Does it work better than it looks?

Haven't had a chance to test out the lights yet in the night waiting on the weather to get better but I did the same on my friends S1000r and he was very happy with the new setup when he rode home the other night in the dark.  If the LED high does not work out for any reason I will swap it out for a HID that have hanging about and see if that is better will update once I get some miles in. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 21, 2017, 11:51:07 AM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
Ok so here goes, apologies for the poor quality pics they are from my iphone:

Pic from the front with High and Low on, not really much to see here:

https://flic.kr/p/SVt7RL (https://flic.kr/p/SVt7RL)

Low Beam Only

https://flic.kr/p/SVt9hw (https://flic.kr/p/SVt9hw)

Low and High Beam

https://flic.kr/p/T6JK5b (https://flic.kr/p/T6JK5b)

I probably need to adjust my beams but won't do that until I get a real road test so these are in how they came from the factory. Also my garage slopes quite a lot front to back so the beam is definitely high.  I am about 12 - 13 feet from the garage door if that affects anything.

Be interested in opinions, I don't know much about lights and scatter and all that...
Hi Andy, I looked at your pics, as I am installing LED headlamps as soon as they arrive (tonight!). My riding is so similar to yours, 2 BMW's, Klim jacket, Harbor Freight work bench......Jerry
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on April 21, 2017, 02:08:13 PM
*Originally Posted by fischetg [+]
Hi Andy, I looked at your pics, as I am installing LED headlamps as soon as they arrive (tonight!). My riding is so similar to yours, 2 BMW's, Klim jacket, Harbor Freight work bench......Jerry

Haha, must be a NE thing.  Love Harbor Freight, sometimes a little too much...
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 26, 2017, 05:48:26 PM
I just installed LED headlamps and parking lamps. What a PITA to get to everything......

I have the BMW end plug to connect the low beam to the Canbus accessory port. I didn't do this yet as I am a bit confused. The low beam parking lamp is wired inside the housing. I am guessing power into the housing comes in from that one plug.
So my questions:
Using the Canbus accessory port, how do I connect into the low beam housing?
By doing this, does the parking lamp "stay-on" mode (turning bike off and holding L turn signal) get eliminated?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on April 26, 2017, 05:55:25 PM
I cant answer those questions but i would love to hear your oppinion on the beam pattern on a dark road.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on April 26, 2017, 05:59:28 PM
*Originally Posted by fischetg [+]
I just installed LED headlamps and parking lamps. What a PITA to get to everything......

I have the BMW end plug to connect the low beam to the Canbus accessory port. I didn't do this yet as I am a bit confused. The low beam parking lamp is wired inside the housing. I am guessing power into the housing comes in from that one plug.
So my questions:
Using the Canbus accessory port, how do I connect into the low beam housing?
By doing this, does the parking lamp "stay-on" mode (turning bike off and holding L turn signal) get eliminated?


The parking light circuit is unrelated.  Nothing you do with the low beam will affect it.

Using the CanBus port, run new wires to a new headlight bulb socket.  Stuff the original socket up out of the way somewhere and ignore that it even exists.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on April 26, 2017, 05:59:59 PM
*Originally Posted by fischetg [+]
I just installed LED headlamps and parking lamps. What a PITA to get to everything......

I have the BMW end plug to connect the low beam to the Canbus accessory port. I didn't do this yet as I am a bit confused. The low beam parking lamp is wired inside the housing. I am guessing power into the housing comes in from that one plug.
So my questions:
Using the Canbus accessory port, how do I connect into the low beam housing?
By doing this, does the parking lamp "stay-on" mode (turning bike off and holding L turn signal) get eliminated?

The parking lamp and low beam bulb have 2 separate connectors, replace the existing bulb on the low beam parking lamp with your LED and then put it back in,  you are done with that now.  Disconnect the low beam headlight bulb plug you do not need this anymore, I wrapped up the plug and then very carefully bent back the metal tab for the low beam H7 enough so I could push the plug into the housing then bent it back be very careful you dont want it to snap.  That gives you a nice tidy install.

Next connect your H7 female socket to the correct ends on the canbus power lead and plug that onto your low beam bulb, you will need to notch the housing to allow the wire to pass through, then route to the plug and plug in and cable tie it all up nicely. 

Parking light function should remain unchanged, once all connected your low beam will come on when you switch on the ignition and stay one for a few seconds after you take the key out kinda like the BMW cars do when you lock them.  I was kinda worried it might drain the battery but its been fine.

Good luck, yes you need small monkey paws to do this its much easier to take off the front cowl and remove the headlight.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 26, 2017, 08:18:11 PM
Sincere thanks! Now I will tackle it later this week.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 27, 2017, 05:48:07 PM
Sincere thanks for all of the technical expertise, patience and hand-holding offered here on this site. What a great group of people!
I sucessfully changed both headlamps and parking lamps to LED's. I also was able to rewire the low beam to the Canbus accessory outlet and all is working perfectly. I could not have done it without your help.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on April 27, 2017, 06:01:22 PM
I'm glad it all worked for you.  What LED are you using for the high beam?  Is there any chance we could get a view of the beam pattern?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on April 27, 2017, 06:25:59 PM
*Originally Posted by fischetg [+]
Sincere thanks for all of the technical expertise, patience and hand-holding offered here on this site. What a great group of people!
I sucessfully changed both headlamps and parking lamps to LED's. I also was able to rewire the low beam to the Canbus accessory outlet and all is working perfectly. I could not have done it without your help.

Awesome job, its not that difficult in the end right you just need to have all the bits and a few hours of time.  Light output looks great should help with visibility a lot during the day which is one of the reasons why I updated the lights.  Let us know if you make it out at night and what you think, still have not ridden mine at night yet!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: fischetg on April 27, 2017, 07:26:03 PM
Both headlamps are Simdevanma from Amazon. 6k color, 49 w and claimed 4K lumens. I will post a pattern soon! Parking are JDM Astar
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on April 27, 2017, 08:39:07 PM
So im beginning to think you guys are switching to LED because you like the way it makes your bike look and not because you need more light at night. Im not judging, looks are important too. But i would like to find a solution to these crummy headlights.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on April 27, 2017, 08:58:58 PM
I switched from halogen for two reasons.  First, I wanted a lower power draw.  I tend to run a lot of accessories, so it was important to reduce output if possible.

Second, the newer headlight technologies do put out a lot more light.  The LED I have in my low beam puts out significantly more light on the road than the halogen did.

The LED I tried at first in the high beam housing was completely useless.  The focal point of the LED just didn't work in the projector housing, so I went to an HID which works great and lights up a whole lot more road than the halogen high beam ever did.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: kpbong on May 28, 2017, 05:59:53 PM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
All done, took a couple of hours but now have 2 Cyclops 4000 Lumen LEDS; in both High and Low beam.  Low beam powered directly off Aux connector on right side, I managed to get the original plug into the light housing by bending the mounting tab (scary!) and the cap fits fine after I notched the headlight housing for the wire to the LED ballast.  Once you take ff the front cowling (2 screws + 2 C clips Thanks Simon for the instructions) its really easy to get to all bulbs and find places to stick the small LED ballasts. 

This is exactly what I've just done with the Cyclops LEDs and the low powered from the aux connector.  Everything is back together and looks good, seems to work fine in the garage (it's raining again), but I'm getting a LAMPF! error.  Is that to be expected when you don't have a bulb plugged into the stock H7 connector?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on May 28, 2017, 06:21:28 PM
*Originally Posted by kpbong [+]
but I'm getting a LAMPF! error.  Is that to be expected when you don't have a bulb plugged into the stock H7 connector?

Yes it is expected, but you can turn the error message off in the setup menu.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Siac on June 27, 2017, 02:00:19 PM
Hi,  Is this a US model issue only? Does it affect the UK bikes?  That's gonna drive me mad if it does that.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on June 27, 2017, 03:57:55 PM
North America only. You dodged a bullet on this one.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Siac on June 27, 2017, 04:25:27 PM
*Originally Posted by miles [+]
North America only. You dodged a bullet on this one.

Woohoo! Get in!    I mean, sorry, I feel your pain! :)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on June 28, 2017, 06:11:27 AM
It's all right. I've had time to work through it.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: cycler on July 24, 2017, 06:21:13 AM
*Originally Posted by fischetg [+]
Sincere thanks for all of the technical expertise, patience and hand-holding offered here on this site. What a great group of people!
I sucessfully changed both headlamps and parking lamps to LED's. I also was able to rewire the low beam to the Canbus accessory outlet and all is working perfectly. I could not have done it without your help.

I didnt read everyones posts.  I read the original post quickly a few months back and thought this may be too hard but after riding today at night Im tired of the bad lighting.  So in a nutshell with the help of this group you swapped out both your lights in front with HID or was it LED lights.  Then did a mod where both light beams stayed on regardless of if you put it into low beam or high beam?  Am I correct here?  And if Im not mistaken when low beam is on one side is lit up and when high beam is lit up one side shuts off that has low beam and the side that has high beam goes on?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: cycler on July 24, 2017, 06:29:59 AM
*Originally Posted by andynj [+]
Hey Jerry,

Here is the list of the parts I used:

Parking lights, this is a pack of 2 so is good for the high beam and low beam parking lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIEX722/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIEX722/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Cyclops LEDS - use code ADV for a 5% discount:

Low beam: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html (http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/4000-Lumen-H7-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_86.html)
High beam: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/9005HB3-LED-headlight-Bulb-4000-Lumen_p_113.html (http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/9005HB3-LED-headlight-Bulb-4000-Lumen_p_113.html)

If you want to wire you low beam to the accessory circuit so you have have low and high on at the same time you need the BMW connector below and a female highlight connector socket:
BMW part # 83 30 0 413 585 REPAIR PLUG, 3-PIN - NO. 611656

I think this is it but you should check: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Independent-Adventure-Megamoto/dp/B00EWPWLQU (https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Independent-Adventure-Megamoto/dp/B00EWPWLQU)

Hi Andy

Can you tell me where the parking lights go that you listed here?  And whey did you add them.  I tried looking at the pics you posted in the beginning of this post but for some reason they dont show up.  So now your high beam and low beam work at the same time?  Or do both left and right side stay on as low beam and then both can stay on as high beam?  Im horrible when it comes to lighting , electric or motor issues but am good at rear sets, bars, reservoirs and changing parts to carbon fiber.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on July 24, 2017, 12:39:26 PM
See if you can download this from my gallery?? It may answer some questions.

https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php?action=media;sa=item;in=2071
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on July 24, 2017, 03:53:03 PM
*Originally Posted by cycler [+]
Hi Andy

Can you tell me where the parking lights go that you listed here?  And whey did you add them.  I tried looking at the pics you posted in the beginning of this post but for some reason they dont show up.  So now your high beam and low beam work at the same time?  Or do both left and right side stay on as low beam and then both can stay on as high beam?  Im horrible when it comes to lighting , electric or motor issues but am good at rear sets, bars, reservoirs and changing parts to carbon fiber.

Hey Cycler,

The parking light for the low fits in from behind like the low beam, the parking light in the high beam fits in from underneath the projector.  The parking lights stay on all the time the bike is running and changing them to LEDS which are significantly brighter really increases your frontal visibility IMHO.  I have LEDS in low and in high beams, wired to the accessory plug so when I switch on the high beam the low stays on the whole time. 

Hope that helps.

Andy
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on July 24, 2017, 07:41:13 PM
For clarity, turn your ignition to on and you will notice the parking lights in your headlight assmbly. Start the bike and the low beam will become obvious. Switch on the high beam and you will see the projector beam has now lit up, that is the high beam. Wait a few seconds and (when stock in the usa) the low beam will turn itself off, this is what we like to modify so it stays on.
The reflector side is just low beam and the projector side is just high beam.
I am still waiting for confirmation that the led lights make it easier to ride dark rodes at night without blinding oncoming traffic. The ones i tried scattered the light pretty badly.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 25, 2017, 03:35:16 AM
The LED I installed for the low beam did improve night time road vision, and I have yet to get flashed by oncoming drivers.

The LED I tried in the high beam did little more than the parking light- the projector lens simply didn't work with the bulb's focal point.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on July 25, 2017, 05:01:29 AM
Miles,
Does the led parking lamp hold up to the heat from the hid in the hibeam? I used the JDMstar ones and they didnt last 30min with the halogen.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 25, 2017, 02:11:46 PM
The HID puts out significantly less heat than the stock halogen. My Sylvania LED parking bulb has been fine for years now.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on July 25, 2017, 11:50:30 PM
Sorry Miles, i just went back and saw where you posted about the improvement in lighting as it applies to the road.
Now I just need to find your list of parts. ... unless you feel like reposting them.
Thanks
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on July 27, 2017, 12:51:32 AM
Miles,
I was able to find the HID but not the LED. The link doesnt take me to a product anymore. Do you have the make and model anymore for me to search for one?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 27, 2017, 03:29:16 AM
Apparently LifetimeLEDs.com no longer carries that exact model.  I'm away from home this week, but I can check for you this coming weekend.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 02, 2017, 11:55:59 PM
I finally, 3 days later, finished reading this thread. Getting ready to get started myself and all I've done (over and over x6) is HID to date. The thing I hate about HID is the instant on aspect as flash to pass is important. Sure, modern HID does better with this - but frankly my Benz car with latest gen HID still does a freaky blink when flashing. It works-ish, but it's not perfect. LED would be since it goes to 100% intensity instantly.

So my thinking - HID 50W for low beam H7 and LED for HB3/9005.

Wire the HID with a relay to battery, tie it to alarm or rear plate. Question 1: doesn't plate late stay on as a "courtesy" light for some time? If so - that means HIDs would stay on. If so - is it better to use the alarm trigger and which wire is that? (unclear after 48 pages).

I assume HID can't be run off CANBUS accessory plug due to the the spike in voltage during ignition?

Am I being old fashioned and should scrap this and go all LED? The Cyclops solution sounds like it will close up the dust caps and so Question 2: are you creating a convection oven because you are sealing in a heat source and fans? Doesn't seem like a brilliant idea - and no, I don't want to run cap-less if I can.

Lastly - all the HIDs I've done have been using Hella gear - so very OEM. I have not bought or used any of the aftermarket ones. Since Hella makes only 35W, that's not an option as I'm trying to get max light. Morimoto still the brand?

Thanks for all the research guys - truly great stuff. Thanks as well, in advance for info on the above.

P
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on August 03, 2017, 01:53:24 AM
Don't worry about going capless.  I've ridden my bike in far dirtier places than you ever will for extremely long distances and haven't had any issues as a result of a lack of a back cap on the low beam (the high beam doesn't even have one to start).

Also, I'd go LED.  HID is not where the tech development is happening.  LED will only get better and better, while HID is stagnant
(this comes from a guy who has an HID high beam and LED low beam).  If you do go with HID, Morimoto is the best right now.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: andynj on August 07, 2017, 07:41:36 PM
*Originally Posted by peeti [+]
I finally, 3 days later, finished reading this thread. Getting ready to get started myself and all I've done (over and over x6) is HID to date. The thing I hate about HID is the instant on aspect as flash to pass is important. Sure, modern HID does better with this - but frankly my Benz car with latest gen HID still does a freaky blink when flashing. It works-ish, but it's not perfect. LED would be since it goes to 100% intensity instantly.

So my thinking - HID 50W for low beam H7 and LED for HB3/9005.

Wire the HID with a relay to battery, tie it to alarm or rear plate. Question 1: doesn't plate late stay on as a "courtesy" light for some time? If so - that means HIDs would stay on. If so - is it better to use the alarm trigger and which wire is that? (unclear after 48 pages).

I assume HID can't be run off CANBUS accessory plug due to the the spike in voltage during ignition?

Am I being old fashioned and should scrap this and go all LED? The Cyclops solution sounds like it will close up the dust caps and so Question 2: are you creating a convection oven because you are sealing in a heat source and fans? Doesn't seem like a brilliant idea - and no, I don't want to run cap-less if I can.

Lastly - all the HIDs I've done have been using Hella gear - so very OEM. I have not bought or used any of the aftermarket ones. Since Hella makes only 35W, that's not an option as I'm trying to get max light. Morimoto still the brand?

Thanks for all the research guys - truly great stuff. Thanks as well, in advance for info on the above.

P

I have duel LED's from Cyclops in mine, cap fits fine on the low beam you just need to notch it with a dremel to let the wire for the small ballast through.  Previous owner had installed HID with the ballast rattling around in the void of the frame near the neck not sure how it lasted so long being bashed around but I didn't like the blueish tint of it anyway so replaced with LED.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 07, 2017, 07:54:08 PM
@AndyNJ - many thanks for that warm and fuzzy. I actually went with the Cyclops and they should be arriving today. Now if Sierra BMW could only answer my email and tell me where the pigtail is so I can permalight(tm) the low beam via accessory that would be fantastic. Until then - I will have half the parts. Anxious to put it all together. Will document and writeup... ironically the nice folks at Cyclops called me up and said - are you "sure" you want to order this combo? What is your application? I explained and was transferred to someone more engineer oriented. He said he didn't think it would work.

I explained that a bunch of people in this thread alone have done it already. And that I would send him pix and info in case he wanted to set up a simple package of pieces for people to order with one SKU. Nice folks over there.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on August 08, 2017, 01:11:47 AM
As you anxiously await parts, I anxiously await pictures of the LED highbeam in action!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 08, 2017, 01:57:21 AM
And they shall come!! The bulbs came today and I have to say I am very pleasantly surprised. Very small. A write up is definitely forthcoming. I may stop at local dealer and grab a dcan plug to move this along. Of course my sierra order also has led turns on it. Alas I'll just do those in the second pass. (And that order has a fab pair of 2017 BMW dry sneakers too-which I want almost more than the lights!)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on August 08, 2017, 02:06:51 AM
I was trying to convert my signals to led. Then i relocated them with a tail tidy that aimed them upwards a bit and changed my mind. They are blindingly bright.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 14, 2017, 03:19:44 PM
Sneak peek - finished yesterday. A full PDF writeup is coming this week as I documented every single step.

It'll be a two part PDF - for those who just want to swap out their lights and leave stock wiring/functionality (i.e. North America no low beam on high beam active) as well as second part of hooking it up to dcan accessory plug. I also took thermal camera shots before and after to check heat output of the finished product and ensure it's within limits (hint, it is) and beam pattern shots before and after. As complete a resource as I can make it.

Best news on this - using the Cyclops LEDs made it nearly trivial. Hopefully they will put together a kit that's more plug and play for those who are afraid of wiring.

Without ado:

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/IMG_03044930376c2f1eb283.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/IMG_3054972ae486a00a5365.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 14, 2017, 03:36:54 PM
*Originally Posted by peeti [+]
A full PDF writeup is coming this week as I documented every single step.


Admittedly it only shows how to install an HID, but the steps are there:

(https://www.s1000r.co.uk/docs/pdf_thumb.png) (https://www.s1000r.co.uk/docs/S1000R-HID-install.pdf)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 14, 2017, 03:41:50 PM
Hi Simon - in fact I used your docs as part of my prep before I tore in. That and shop manuals, videos etc. Researched HID, LED etc. Which vendor which method. This is going to be kind of a culmination and very detailed for even the most basic of beginners. Without your work on this thread (and a few others) none of this would be possible and that will be reflected on page 1! Many thanks!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on August 14, 2017, 06:39:02 PM
Peeti,
Any chance we could get a picture of the beam pattern against a light wall at 10'? Similar to how a shop would aim the headlights of a car or bike.
Thanks
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 14, 2017, 10:42:18 PM
They will be in the final document for both before and after. Unfortunately my distance max was 7 feet so some interpretation will be necessary. But the beam pattern is very close to stock at a glance and any difference from stock is up close due to the design of the bulb and the fact there is no "filament" or glowy (highly technical term) area in front of the LED housing. I hope to work on this on Wednesday and publish it asap. Would sooner, but have to work to pay for these things LOL.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 21, 2017, 04:01:46 PM
My apologies for the delay - life kept getting in the way of getting some time to organize this. When you view it, I hope it will make sense.

Without further ado, here is the PDF guide to swapping bulbs with LEDs as well as separate section for feeding power from canbus for constant on low beam on North American models.

I hope this is even marginally helpful to those afraid to jump in. As stated in the document a huge shout out goes to everyone on this thread for pioneering the info and providing all the documentation I assembled to end up with this fantastic solution.

Cheers!

Click the Details link under PDF icon

(https://www.s1000r.co.uk/docs/pdf_thumb.png) (https://www.s1000r.co.uk/docs/headlightgs.pdf)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on August 21, 2017, 04:22:27 PM
 :460:  :028: :028: :028:

ADMIN, it is a real pity that we do not have a 'Sticky' area that documents like this could be posted to (controlled by the Administrator) so that there is a single easy source for items like this.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on August 21, 2017, 08:50:29 PM
Perhaps the admins can create a gallery that they control - we submit/vote content and they can move it there and have sole control? And thanks for the kind words Simon! Though again, without you - this wouldn't have happened!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: jjsc6 on August 22, 2017, 01:07:56 AM
*Originally Posted by peeti [+]
My apologies for the delay - life kept getting in the way of getting some time to organize this. When you view it, I hope it will make sense.

Without further ado, here is the PDF guide to swapping bulbs with LEDs as well as separate section for feeding power from canbus for constant on low beam on North American models.

I hope this is even marginally helpful to those afraid to jump in. As stated in the document a huge shout out goes to everyone on this thread for pioneering the info and providing all the documentation I assembled to end up with this fantastic solution.

Fantastic work!  Thanks
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 08, 2017, 03:31:11 PM
*Originally Posted by Go_Outside [+]
Here is another option. All you need is a standard relay and some skill.
I have included a schematic.
This will use the standard low beam circuit to power the low beam until you switch to high beam at which point the high beam circuit will trigger the relay and power the low beam from the battery. Alternatively, you can use the Nav plug for power if you don't want to run power back to the battery. 
The high beam positive is white and the low beam is yellow, brown is ground. The wires are easily accessible behind the lamps. I recommend soldering your connections and using shrink tubing or at least "3M 33+" tape.

So this looks like you need to have high beam on all the time to power the low beam.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on September 08, 2017, 03:58:03 PM
*Originally Posted by CrazyBiker [+]
So this looks like you need to have high beam on all the time to power the low beam.

Someone did some work along these lines in this thread. There was much more to it than a relay. You needed a diode as well or there was a chance that you'd get juice feeding back on a live circuit. Way too much complexity for the solution gained. If you just wanted the low on, all you need is a simple line back to the battery with a relay tied to the license plate light. Simple to do as the plate light is in the pillion area and the battery just another few inches forward.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 08, 2017, 05:10:32 PM
*Originally Posted by peeti [+]
Someone did some work along these lines in this thread. There was much more to it than a relay. You needed a diode as well or there was a chance that you'd get juice feeding back on a live circuit. Way too much complexity for the solution gained. If you just wanted the low on, all you need is a simple line back to the battery with a relay tied to the license plate light. Simple to do as the plate light is in the pillion area and the battery just another few inches forward.

I don't like to use the plate light as a trigger as that would turn on the low beam with the ignition. Canbus is a better trigger as that turns on with the engine? Or maybe run high beam all the time and use it as a trigger is a better solution? I don't like the idea of using Canbus to power HID/LEDs too much.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on September 08, 2017, 06:19:04 PM
*Originally Posted by CrazyBiker [+]
I don't like to use the plate light as a trigger as that would turn on the low beam with the ignition. Canbus is a better trigger as that turns on with the engine? Or maybe run high beam all the time and use it as a trigger is a better solution? I don't like the idea of using Canbus to power HID/LEDs too much.

To each their own. But many have shown that the cabbie OE connector is of high enough amperag that it can run the halogen directly. HID I concur, because of startup flow, though I believe others have still done it. LED is almost half of the amps of the halogen so go direct. Remember that these sockets were designed to run heaters!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Go_Outside on September 08, 2017, 08:43:15 PM
*Originally Posted by peeti [+]
Someone did some work along these lines in this thread. There was much more to it than a relay. You needed a diode as well or there was a chance that you'd get juice feeding back on a live circuit. Way too much complexity for the solution gained. If you just wanted the low on, all you need is a simple line back to the battery with a relay tied to the license plate light. Simple to do as the plate light is in the pillion area and the battery just another few inches forward.

No to both of you. You dont leave the highbeam on and you dont need a 10cent diode.
When i offered this solution i didnt understand my audience. Now that i know who i am speaking to i highly recommend taking it to the dealer and asking them to use a canbus connector and install some led lamps.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 15, 2017, 06:22:04 PM
On my 2014, the #2 is reading 12v and #3 is reading 0.8V with the ignition on opposite what @Peeti posted for his 2017.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37054805566_e322719bc2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YspyJ3)

Also remove the frame studs screws first for the lower headlight mount otherwise by forcibly pulling the headlight with wear/tear/scrape the mounting grommets.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/37245199435_26f3214f9e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YKeobX)

There was no way I could smush the H7 connector in the housing. I had to break the connector and tape off the terminals to shove them in.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4337/37054806716_ed693abe36_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yspz4S)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 15, 2017, 06:59:31 PM
Also I am not able to get the LEDs to run even if the voltage shows 14V while running on the Acc connector. I can still power the LED through the stock H7 connector. What gives?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on September 15, 2017, 07:06:13 PM
LEDs are polarity-sensitive.  Try swapping the wires to reverse the polarity.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 15, 2017, 07:36:22 PM
Yup, that worked. My cheapo LEDs from amazon came with wrongly labelled connectors.  However I have another set of CANBUS compliant LEDs that are not polarity sensitive.

Can you confirm on pre 2017, the Connectors are numbered different?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on September 16, 2017, 01:18:00 AM
Yes. The OE plugs are in a different location for 2017... so measure as the above poster did. I found the same thing on mine (albeit what I documented is for 2017). As for th h7 fitting ymmv depending on model of led. As you said, you bought cheap amazon ones, I paid a premium through cyclops. The cyclops h7 are tiny and do fit.. I'm sure there are others. Went with cyclops as others have trusted them for years in the aux light space. Glad it's working. Depending on the maker of those leds you may not need to close it up. And lastly yes, leds are polarity sensitive as you found. Congrats on getting through it. Sorry for my delay in reply!

P
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 16, 2017, 10:31:47 PM
Yeah, pre 2017 #1 - Gound, #2 - +12V, #3 - Speed pulse 0.8V.

The H7 connector can't be smushed in regardless. It can't fit into the headlight housing past the H7 base. Did yours fit between the dust cap and LED?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: peeti on September 17, 2017, 02:49:55 AM
On the leds I got the wire comes out to the side. I drilled a hole to feed that wire outside of the dust cap and placed the driver itself in the guts under the clocks which then finally connect to h7. The only thing that didn't fit great was the original h7 which may be what you speak of. If so, I cut it in half so it's still usable but was able to tuck it beside the reflector. Hope that helps!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 17, 2017, 07:53:38 AM
I just broke the H7 connector and tucked the terminals in as shown in the pic above.

Attached is the pic of dust cap and connection.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/36437329364_66065d7dfe_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvQQyC)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4357/37132243341_be005f6302_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Yzfsh6)

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36437325394_3d94e14a3b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvQPob)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: cycler on September 27, 2017, 05:09:33 AM
After almost 2 weeks of trial and error and pming forum members and annoying them Im happy to say i finally did the low beam cure

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/20170927_001257.jpg)

(https://images.s1000r.co.uk/20170927_001325.jpg)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 29, 2017, 10:53:21 PM
It seems now the high beam is aimed too high. Maybe something messed up after I removed the headlight??? Need to adjust it back down.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Zig Zag on February 12, 2018, 12:06:51 AM
I had put this mod on the back burner. I don’t seem to ride at night that much any more, no hurry.
I finally got my copy of the Hanes service manual with wiring diagrams. Started poking around.
I apologize if I missed a post and this was previously discussed.
Low beam is controlled by the load shedding relay. Which is controlled by the instrument panel control unit. The relay is fed by F4.
Meanwhile.
There are two switched circuits (by main relay) F6 and F8.
F6 is fused @7.5A and feeds the number plate light and the optional accessories plug.
F8 is fused @4A.
The yellow wire coming from the load shedding relay going to the head light runs right by the feed for the plate light.
I decided to bypass the load shedding relay and feed the low beam from the plate light circuit.
The low beam will come on when the ignition is turned on and stay on, like the plate light, when turned off. I know some won’t care for this.
I confirmed the yellow wire did indeed feed the low beam with a continuity test before cutting!
Six inches of wire, two splices and capped the wire coming from the load shedding relay.
Buttoned up.
Ops check good.

Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 12, 2018, 12:09:45 AM
Good job.  :152:

Photos would be nice
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Zig Zag on February 12, 2018, 12:23:56 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Good job.  :152:

Photos would be nice

I will put something together and try to post some pics!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: rdecae on February 21, 2018, 07:40:00 PM
my Haynes manual has not arrived.  when taking the dust cap off the low beam, do you twist clockwise, or counter-clockwise?  and you need to "pull" on it, or just twist and it will release.  thanks
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 21, 2018, 07:52:08 PM
*Originally Posted by rdecae [+]
my Haynes manual has not arrived.  when taking the dust cap off the low beam, do you twist clockwise, or counter-clockwise?  and you need to "pull" on it, or just twist and it will release.  thanks

counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn and it should just be loose.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: rdecae on February 21, 2018, 08:25:15 PM
ok, thanks
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on May 04, 2018, 11:58:01 PM
I have been trying to figure out a purely "software" fix for this issue for a long time, but so far without success.  I have been able to do some stuff with ISTA/P (a maintenance and software "coding" tool for BMW cars and bikes) but not that. 

I am about ready to give up and do it in hardware.  However, all the workarounds I see here are on the "post-relay" side, or from the accessory (CANBUS) connector, and bypass the load-shedding relay.  I would like to keep the load-shedding function on the low-beam. 

I was looking at the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual (page 8-30) and it seems  that I could put a diode from pin 7  to pin  1 of the instrument panel ECU (or equivalently between pins 5 and 10 of the relay box).  This would connect pin 2 of the high-beam relay (through a diode to prevent back-feed) to pin 2 of the load-shed relay.  Therefore the load-shed relay would be energized under the "normal" circumstances (i.e. when the low-beam is activated) and also energized when the high beams are activated.

Has anyone tried this approach?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Zig Zag on May 05, 2018, 02:34:48 PM
When I tried controlling the load shedding relay from F6 I got a light on the dash.
I am running the low beam straight off of F6.
If you try it let us know how it goes.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: ecirmo on July 03, 2018, 12:57:54 AM
Hey all,

I just followed the pdf guide for installing LEDS and getting a constant low beam.

I wired up the BMW accessory pigtail to the H7 female plug, and wired it to an OPT-7 LED low beam I have installed (which works beautifully, for the record). I followed the instructions to a T and installed the BMW accessory pigtail to the accessory port behind the horn and wired that to a female H7 plug, but unfortunately the low beam simply won't illuminate at all, not even when the bike is running. I checked that the ground wire on the pigtail was wired to the ground on the H7 female plug, likewise with the 12V wire, checked that the beam worked with the existing stock H7 female plug (it did), tried reversing the wiring at all junctions, but nothing.

What did I miss? Is it possible that my accessory port behind the horn is not powered?

Many thanks for any input.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 03, 2018, 04:38:43 AM
Does the LED light when you hotwire it off the battery directly?

If no, then chances are you wrecked the ballast by reversing the polarity of the wiring at some point.

If yes, check to make certain that the socket behind the horn is putting out the amperage necessary.  It was a long time ago, but I seem to recall a bit over five amps when I tested mine.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: ecirmo on July 03, 2018, 05:55:08 AM
I will check and get back to you, but the leds appear to be functioning fine. I returned the wiring to the stock plug and it operates properly still.

I will check the accessory socket. Any idea what is to be done if there is no power going to it?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 03, 2018, 03:18:43 PM
Use the similar socket on the left side of the bike.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on July 04, 2018, 04:27:50 AM
Check my posts and pics in the thread and confirm if you installed the BMW adapter correctly to match the voltages. I had to measure first and then splice them together. pre 2017s are wired differently.

The harness.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/28317673247_9851dee47f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K9ktFD)
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: ecirmo on July 07, 2018, 04:46:19 AM
Success! I have two working lights, simultaneously---what a concept!

I tested the accessory port behind the horn and it was producing 1V. I tested the left side accessory port and it was producing 13V, so I wired my pigtail and homemade H7 plug to that, and boom I've got a working low beam that stays on when the high beam is in operation. Sweetness.

Now the question is, am I going to get a "no bulb" warning once I finally get my service code cleared?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on July 07, 2018, 12:03:17 PM
*Originally Posted by ecirmo [+]
Now the question is, am I going to get a "no bulb" warning once I finally get my service code cleared?

Probably, but you can turn that off in the setup menu(see rider manual for 'how to')
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on July 07, 2018, 03:46:55 PM
*Originally Posted by ecirmo [+]
Success! I have two working lights, simultaneously---what a concept!

I tested the accessory port behind the horn and it was producing 1V. I tested the left side accessory port and it was producing 13V, so I wired my pigtail and homemade H7 plug to that, and boom I've got a working low beam that stays on when the high beam is in operation. Sweetness.

Glad it worked for you.  And yes, it is a fairly easy fix to a truly annoying problem.

*Originally Posted by ecirmo [+]
Now the question is, am I going to get a "no bulb" warning once I finally get my service code cleared?

I never did with mine, but these bikes seem to vary more than you'd expect, so who knows?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: stanksbeamen on July 25, 2018, 12:06:26 AM
Can this be done with HIDs installed? Thanks for the info
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on July 25, 2018, 12:53:04 AM
Yes, I have both low and high beam HID installed as well as the 'low beam on all the time fix', but I do not think you can use the canbus plug.

pm your e-mail and I can send you instructions on the 'low beam on all the time fix'  that u used with my HID. You will need a 12v relay and some wir.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: stanksbeamen on July 25, 2018, 02:47:02 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Yes, I have both low and high beam HID installed as well as the 'low beam on all the time fix', but I do not think you can use the canbus plug.

pm your e-mail and I can send you instructions on the 'low beam on all the time fix'  that u used with my HID. You will need a 12v relay and some wir.

I'll PM you shortly, thanks for the information and help!  :062:
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on July 25, 2018, 04:51:26 PM
Anyone figured out a way to connect the low beam to a switched source that comes on with the engine running?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: amesser325 on August 15, 2018, 05:05:20 PM
*Originally Posted by Shasta McNasty [+]
I have been trying to figure out a purely "software" fix for this issue for a long time, but so far without success.  I have been able to do some stuff with ISTA/P (a maintenance and software "coding" tool for BMW cars and bikes) but not that. 


Can you explain a bit more about what didn't work with ISTA+? I have a rather new dataset, but still not new enough to cover my 2017 build, so I get an 'unrecognized' or similar error.
What I mean to ask, I suppose, is can you drill down into the menus but just can't see where the US lighting is an option in the light module? All my experience in coding is with my 07 530iT car via NCS Expert/Dummy so the programming side of ISTA+ is new to me.

It just seems like this should be a coding thing, based on the other things I've seen in their car programming.

Thanks,

Andy
17 S1000R
07 530iT 6MT
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on August 30, 2018, 10:06:44 PM
*Originally Posted by amesser325 [+]
Can you explain a bit more about what didn't work with ISTA+? I have a rather new dataset, but still not new enough to cover my 2017 build, so I get an 'unrecognized' or similar error.
What I mean to ask, I suppose, is can you drill down into the menus but just can't see where the US lighting is an option in the light module? All my experience in coding is with my 07 530iT car via NCS Expert/Dummy so the programming side of ISTA+ is new to me.

It just seems like this should be a coding thing, based on the other things I've seen in their car programming.

Thanks,

Andy
17 S1000R
07 530iT 6MT

Yeah, I can't access any "coding" functions at all in ISTA+ or NCS Expert.  Only "service" functions like would be done at a dealer's service department.  Lighting mode would most likely be coding, not service, as you guessed. 

We can manage coding on cars but not the bike.  It's been a while since I last tried, maybe the latest .dat files are better.  Honestly it's been so long I forget the actual error. 

What version are you on? 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: amesser325 on August 31, 2018, 02:52:00 AM
I'm running ISTA+ v4.09 and V63.0 DATEN files from around Jan 2018 (or at least when I downloaded them). WAG but since the daten files didn't have a K47 reference I used the K001, which are at least referenced in the I-Level shown on the main vehicle info page of ISTA+
I do get a ignition not found reference, not sure if that's code for low battery or some other weird issue.

My next attempt will be to connect via NCS rather than ISTA. Seems as though the programming and module language hasn't kept up with cars. I suppose since there's only 4 modules interaction is a bit easier to leave well enough alone.

Thanks

Andy
17 S1000R
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on September 20, 2018, 11:55:05 PM
Pro-tip that I haven't seen on this thread yet (although I might have missed it in the 53 pages...):

Some H7 LED (and maybe HID too) bulbs have a separate mounting flange, where the bulb/fan assembly twist-locks in.  If yours are like this, take advantage of it!  Separate the flange and install that first.  It will be much easier to fasten the bail (clamp) on the flange, without the bulb and fan in the way!   :046:

Then you can just twist-lock the new bulb into the flange, kind of like the high beam.  Way easier than doing the bail blind and fighting it around the fan! 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on September 21, 2018, 01:12:03 AM
Anyone found a switched powersource yet that turns on with the motor?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on September 21, 2018, 06:02:27 AM
*Originally Posted by CrazyBiker [+]
Anyone found a switched powersource yet that turns on with the motor?

Nope
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Shasta McNasty on September 24, 2018, 01:55:29 AM
Wow, I did both the LED mod and the "keep the dang low beam on" mod--what a difference.  Should have done it long ago--especially the low-beam mod!  If you're on the fence,do it. 

I think I have to play a bit with headlight aim.  Low beam seems good but the high beam is way too high.  I see a lot of others reporting the same thing though. 
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on January 29, 2019, 03:21:24 AM
A little perplexed here.  I purchased the OA plug from BMW for the right side (part number 83300413585).  I then connected the OA plug #1 (ground) and #3 (+12V) to an H7 female plug.  I confirmed continuity.

Key on =  0.85V on the H7 plug. 
Engine running = 1V and stays at 1V. 
About 15 seconds after I turn the bike off and remove the key = 12.5V
60 second mark at which point it goes to 0V.

Under none of these conditions does the 36W LED H7 turn on.  I connected the LED H7 to a car battery and it was like staring into the sun, so the LED H7 is working.

Any advice?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 29, 2019, 04:17:09 AM
Try the left side aux socket.

Seriously.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on January 29, 2019, 04:33:09 AM
Miles, which OA plug did you connect to low beam?  I thought you said right side.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on January 29, 2019, 05:43:56 AM
Yes, the right side works on mine for that purpose. However, for some reason that has never been explained, some posters here have reported that the right side had the same issues you've reported but for them the left side did the job. 

Yes, it makes no sense, but there it is.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on January 30, 2019, 03:19:16 AM
Thank you Miles.  Just checked.  On my bike the right side plug #1 and #2 are ground and power. 

On the left side the front most plug #1 and #3 are ground and power.  I did not check which was which but it powered my H7 LED front bulb.

Check before you solder and shrink wrap, zip tie, etc.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Stumasters on May 26, 2019, 02:30:55 AM
I've got a 2018 single R and I tried the right side can-bus port without luck.  Every lead had some sort of voltage, matter of fact it seems like all 3 had 12v+, so no ground.  I was about to give up on the accessory wire, and purchased the PDM60 anyway, being that I wanted to also run a 5v charging lead up to the bars for a USB outlet for gps or phone.  In reading here, I learned there was another on the left side of the bike, and in a guide somewhere I noticed one guy tapped into one somewhere down around the clutch? 

Either way I didn't plan to upgrade lamps just yet, I went ahead and ordered the PIAA extreme white motorsports halogen for the dim and left the bright alone.  Eventually I may go full HID as I have done on my other bikes in the past, but I just want to have decent output and both lamps working at once.  It is asinine to me that US requirements limit the bulbs on my R from working just because they are opposing sides.  My Busa has center-line lamps and both operate.  That thing with HID is like having the power of the sun at your fingertips.

I have seen the lower fork mounted driving lamps here as well, and I kind of like that for late night country road or back road riding.  The PDM60 will allow me an option to hook those up in the future as well, and you can run them with a switch as well via the PDM if I read correctly.  It's a pricey alternative, but it gets great ratings. 

My plan like mentioned is to run a new plug (ceramic) to the dim bulb, then solder and heat shrink/ tube the wire back to one of the PDM 20A leads and be done with it.  Go into the settings and disable the LAMPR setting so the warning is not an issue. 

Glad I found this thread, it helped clear things up alot.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: taiguy on August 17, 2019, 01:15:44 AM
doh. I wish I had found this thread earlier. Last time I had opened up the headlights was in 2015 when I bought the bike. Had an HID ballast melt as it slipped and was touching the engine. Decided now was as good a time as any to make the jump to LEDs. I ordered a pair of H7 LED bulbs since that's what the service manual calls for, for both low beam and high beam.

Obviously we all know now that the high beam is a 9005 and not an H7  :164:

Have to wait another week and hope I remember which screws go where.

In other news, I now have a spare H7/9005 LED Saber set from DDM I can sell to another forum user. 10,000 lumens per pair, 50W per bulb.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Circus on August 17, 2019, 01:48:35 AM
On my 2015 I had to use the plug on the left side to put my LED.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SwiftTone on October 11, 2019, 01:10:57 PM
I have a 2016. Used a BMW "Repair Plug" part # 83300413585, connected it to the available plug next to the horn, then connected 2 of the 3 wires directly onto the bulb and it works! Sorry I don't remember which wires I used but it was the middle one and one of the ones on the side.

Now I can run my high and low LEDs together!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: CrazyBiker on October 11, 2019, 07:15:29 PM
It is the same as the mod described here. Does you low beam turn on with ignition?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on October 12, 2019, 01:18:37 AM
*Originally Posted by CrazyBiker [+]
It is the same as the mod described here. Does you low beam turn on with ignition?


Yes, it's one of the variants (the easy one) and it should come on with the ignition and stay on even when the high beam is on.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SwiftTone on October 12, 2019, 02:06:14 PM
*Originally Posted by CrazyBiker [+]
It is the same as the mod described here. Does you low beam turn on with ignition?

Stays on when high beam  and ignition is on. Stays on for 30 seconds after key removed.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Aurelius on February 09, 2020, 12:41:57 AM
Greetings.  New to this, and hoping for some good advice.  I installed a FuzeBox to run my low beams.  No problems getting things hooked up, and the low beam comes on and shuts off with the key (and a little delay).  But.....now the high beam won't turn on.  What?  Never went near that side of the housing, and the fuses are fine.  Any suggestions?  Here is another complicating factor to consider first.  I disconnected the FuzeBox and went back to the original wiring set up, and neither the low beam nor the high worked.  What?!  Again, fuses are fine.  What am I missing?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 09, 2020, 01:28:16 AM
This makes no sense to me.  I can't imagine how running an alternate wiring setup to the low beam would affect the high in any way, and after removal and reset to original wiring everything should go back to the way it was before doing any work.

Sorry, but I just don't have any suggestions.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 09, 2020, 01:49:43 AM
Obvious thing first, is the Hi-beam bulb OK??

I am with Miles, just doing the low beam 'On' conversion does not touch the Hi Beam side!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Aurelius on February 09, 2020, 02:25:04 AM
Thanks for the quick replies.  I pulled the high beam bulb, and it looked fine.  Filament intact and no discoloration.
It's a mystery that neither low nor high beams worked when I went back to the original configuration -- disconnected the FuzeBox and reconnected the original plug.  Makes me think I did something when I first pulled it apart.  But no obvious signs that something was damaged or pulled apart.  I'll dig a little deeper tomorrow, but I'm afraid this is above my pay grade.
But if you think of something, please let me know.  Thanks.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: Aurelius on February 09, 2020, 02:26:45 AM
Don't the high and low beams have to communicate somehow?  How else would the low beam know to shut off when the high beam is on?  Did that communication get disrupted when the low beam goes straight to the FuzeBox?
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 09, 2020, 03:33:25 AM
Just another thing, one of the lights only comes on when the engine is running(can't remember which one).
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: miles on February 09, 2020, 04:02:57 AM
*Originally Posted by SimonUK [+]
Just another thing, one of the lights only comes on when the engine is running(can't remember which one).


High beam.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on February 09, 2020, 12:49:26 PM
Couldn't remember! I have an XR in the garage as well and on that it's the other way round (go figure!  :087:), with the low beam only coming on with the motor running!
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on June 30, 2020, 03:06:38 AM
This may have been discussed previously, but has anyone traced the low beam wiring back to it's switched source? Does it have a mechanical or solid state relay? Is it switched on a circuit board somewhere?

I bought the accessory wiring and H7 plug. I too am concerned by the diameter of the wire for accessory plug being too small. What I would really like to do is take the hot wire coming from the accessory plug and run it to the coil of a relay. This would provide power for the low beam to go through it's normal plug even when it would normally switch off.
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: SimonUK on June 30, 2020, 03:11:22 AM
*Originally Posted by LateOnTheBrakes [+]
This may have been discussed previously, but has anyone traced the low beam wiring back to it's switched source?

here ya go

https://www.s1000r.co.uk/index.php/topic,8715.0.html
Title: Re: Low beam shut-off cure... maybe.
Post by: LateOnTheBrakes on June 30, 2020, 03:20:13 AM
Thanks. That is almost exactly what I was looking for. Is there another canbus accessory plug near the rear of the bike?